Hi guys I did my home work and researched and i know about 2 things, drilling a hole in my TB, or getting the cipher tool to raise my rpm.

The wear thing is that we managed to idel it fine either with or without A/c on lol u cant have both. But then it just goes bananas again. we ordered the Cipher tool but till it gets here the car is anoying.

So i was wodering did all of u guys had to go for 1 of the above options.

There must be a way out of this some 1 here must have a 3ed solution.

Regards....

 

Hi man, i have the cipher tool if u want to use it. give me a call and we can manage that. salam

 

More of an idel stabalization mod but look at the the crankcase vent bypass. Its on here some where. That is suposed to smooth things out a bit. And long onto your list a reflash.

 

MO salam do u have 1??
I was just going to order mine i need it badly idel is anoying man and i dont want to drill my TB it has 1 disadvantage whenn u lift ur foot of after a woot the car acts a lil wiered. let me know plz and i was seeking if there was any other solutions but i guess the guys in the US and the other places r a sleep now time zone Diff. thanx again MO for the help.

 

What engine management are you running?

 

Mine runs smooth and quiet, with or without a/c; the idle may have to be raised slightly if car tends to stall out. But it should not idle rough with turbos; however, superchargers, are more likely to cause rough idle.

G

 

Fcon v-pro HKS

 

How come no one is asking you what cams you're running?

 

coz u will have a rough idel with cames but the car wont bog and switch off it self every time u stop at a light. but any way i have the JWT C2 cams they r big, but not to an extend that my car gets anoyingly stolling.

 

U know what i think i'm drilling.

 

you definitely need to raise the idle with the C2 cams..........but can't the F-con do that?

 

I have the JWT C2(s) too, we did have to increase the idle slightly, but the idle was never rough. But maybe, I am not-understanding what you meant by ‘rough’

I did have a stalling problem when the RPM hits the 1000 mark, as it would continue to drop and then stall; as before the idle was increased I had to keep the RPM above 1000.

After the Nissan mechanic came over and increased the idle it is running fine.

G

 

I have the C2 cams as well. If you have a wideband you should be able to see the ECU trying to correct for the lean condition. When I had the cipher hooked up I could see the BTDC being adjusting trying to correct for the lean A/F. If not enough umph the motor would stall.

Add fuel to the idle if you can.

 

nop and thats from an HKS authorised dealer.

 

Sorry i didnt explain my self well yes what u said above is what i called rough going up to 1000 then droping all the way to 150 or 200 and then stoll.

 

+1 this 100% true and i do have a wideband,, and i left it for it to ides and syncronise with the car but it happend only 1s and then back to ups and downs and all over the place with the rpm from 1100 to 150 and up agian.

 

Yeah I had a problem with the car "pulsing". Where the Idel was at about 700rpm and would pulse in a 2 second rythem. The idel would drop 150 for 2 seconds then back up for 2 seconds and so on. And when I came to a stop too quick it would stall out. This realy only occured after my TT was installed.

After an Idel bump to 1000rpm it flattened right out and had no issues. I think it may be some thing with the tuning at the lower adjustment level of the piggyback. It cant correct smoothly the air/fuel mixture so it leans out idel drops it adds fuel to adjust RPM to set idel then pulls the fuel when its at that point. Once its there the extra air leans it out again and the cycle continues. As soon as you get the idel to a point where the air/fuel flow can keep up with each other it smooths out.

So the answer would be to get the RPM's up. Thats why I realy dont think the drilling is the way to go if your FI. Unmetered air leans it out more, but that may add enough umf on the top end of the cycle to carry the RPMs out of the cycle. Id have to see graphs to realy know. But all this is from fairly solid base of working on cars for a while. Take it as you will dont base any decision on this, its just my .02 an a little analyzation.

 

I have the stand alon Fcon v-pro no piggyback. but yes drilling a hole isn't a classy solution but i'm doing it coz i'm sick of that idel and having said that and looking at the results the FI guys got after drilling it is great it works well for them and all what matteres it got the idle where it should b.

 

If you're interested, my idle readout when it was increased. But I don't use the same management system as you do.

G

 

I guesse a side question.

Over all hows the FCON working out for you? You kept all your creature comforts? In the After my 600WHP mark I was thining about going the stand alone route depending on what issues I have with the EU at that HP.

Definately let us know how the drill works out for you.