overheating while on the dyno...
Originally Posted by Dubai
Thanks guys...I was almost sure its air as moosa told me!
if you want to put it same place as I did the lines that come with the stillen oil cooler wont reach. here's a pic;
if you want to put it same place as I did the lines that come with the stillen oil cooler wont reach. here's a pic;
Originally Posted by Eazzzzzzy
Dont go too heavy on the anti freeze ---I run a quart max and water wetter with Distilled water. ------ I will get flamed but so what, I tossed my thermostat. And lets not get into the water staying in the radiator longer etc etc etc, When I had my SC on ---thats what helped me, along with an upper diverter. Keep in mind --this summer here --NO rain all summer and 100 +++ many days
BTW ---Yes ---They need a Good fan on the DYNO---I take it for granted if they have a dyno they know that ---DUH
BTW ---Yes ---They need a Good fan on the DYNO---I take it for granted if they have a dyno they know that ---DUH
Originally Posted by clemlover15
thanks for the pic Im getting the stilllen cooler also!!!!
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From: Dubai, UAE
Originally Posted by clemlover15
Do you have any dyno numbers that you want to share?? What pis are you boosting at?
Good luck
Good luck
Originally Posted by clemlover15
thanks for the pic Im getting the stilllen cooler also!!!!
Originally Posted by thawk408
I can piece together an oil cooler that will destroy the stillen and also be cheaper.
Originally Posted by Dubai
No numbers yet as the car isnt fully tuned. it was late and the shop had to close. hopefully by tom i'll have numbers. i'm shooting for 8-8.5 psi.
My coolant temps always went up on the dyno. They hardly ever rise on the street. Much better airflow in the real world conditions is the reason. If you're not seeing over 220F (104C I believe) then I wouldn't worry about it.
Originally Posted by clemlover15
well let me know Im looking for an oil cooler that will fit with the APS TT,
Earl's cooler, AN fittings, and stainless hose for $370
Originally Posted by DXB350Z
no head studs...we are running the stockers.
Given what we've experienced, don't turn the boost up - head lift is most likely your problem. Often, if there is air in the system, it would overheat by just sitting at idle after 15 minutes of so...
Good Luck and let us know how it goes.
Originally Posted by Eazzzzzzy
Dont go too heavy on the anti freeze ---I run a quart max and water wetter with Distilled water. ------ I will get flamed but so what, I tossed my thermostat.
hope you wont get flamed for that, thats what the big boys do...
except that anti freeze part, i live in florida
i gut the thermo first too, thermostats are for girls...
Originally Posted by Audible Mayhem
i gut the thermo first too, thermostats are for girls...
If you have full heat through the vents, then its not head lift or air in the system...which is good news.
On a long continous dyno pull, or stead state tuning and moderate loads, its very common for coolant temps to rise. As long as your temps return to a normal range after the pull, all is well. Regardless of fan size, you will not get sufficient airflow to keep the engine totally cold. What type of temps are you seeing? At idle, we usually see about 185F and max of 216F after a high powered run. Then the temps return to the sub 200F range within 30 seconds after the pull. 85-100C is a good safe range to work within.
But check your heater, and report back.
On a long continous dyno pull, or stead state tuning and moderate loads, its very common for coolant temps to rise. As long as your temps return to a normal range after the pull, all is well. Regardless of fan size, you will not get sufficient airflow to keep the engine totally cold. What type of temps are you seeing? At idle, we usually see about 185F and max of 216F after a high powered run. Then the temps return to the sub 200F range within 30 seconds after the pull. 85-100C is a good safe range to work within.
But check your heater, and report back.
Originally Posted by sandy@forged
If you have full heat through the vents, then its not head lift or air in the system...which is good news.
On a long continous dyno pull, or stead state tuning and moderate loads, its very common for coolant temps to rise. As long as your temps return to a normal range after the pull, all is well. Regardless of fan size, you will not get sufficient airflow to keep the engine totally cold. What type of temps are you seeing? At idle, we usually see about 185F and max of 216F after a high powered run. Then the temps return to the sub 200F range within 30 seconds after the pull. 85-100C is a good safe range to work within.
But check your heater, and report back.
On a long continous dyno pull, or stead state tuning and moderate loads, its very common for coolant temps to rise. As long as your temps return to a normal range after the pull, all is well. Regardless of fan size, you will not get sufficient airflow to keep the engine totally cold. What type of temps are you seeing? At idle, we usually see about 185F and max of 216F after a high powered run. Then the temps return to the sub 200F range within 30 seconds after the pull. 85-100C is a good safe range to work within.
But check your heater, and report back.
Originally Posted by Philthy
With all of this Tech Support from Sandy, I hope Sharif is giving her a BIG X-Mass bonus... 
Maybe she's really the tuning guru behind all these high powered cars.