Well I have finally finished installing my new motor and now I'm in need of a map until I can break it in and then have it tuned.. Thanks again for any help...

Here is my setup:

Aps TT
650cc Injectors
3 1/2 Aps Test Pipes
Aps Duel Exhaust

Thanks,
brooke

 

for now, enter the map found on turbo xs website..I'm sure you have a wideband on your car... even if you dont have the turbo xs tuner pro, you should be able to see that as soon as the car gets in the 10-30% load column, you want the a/f to begin to rapidly drop..punch in the very conservative timing that is on the map on the txs site...you want to stay out of boost as much as possible for the first 500-1000miles until it is closer to breaking in so you can have someone tune it on a dyno, then test on the street

here is the best map to get started with:
http://www.turboxs.com/utec350zupdate.htm

go to where it says "aps tt 550cc".
http://www.turboxs.com/downloads/350...TT550cc28d.TXT
..change the first entire three left rows with ctrl u and subtract 5 ms of fuel..then monitor the changes while driving (remember, you are trying to stay out of boost anyway)..but make sure as soon as your boost gauage reaches 0 and begins to build any boost, that the a/f drops down to at least 12:1...

email/call me once you got this far and I'll try to help

make sure you copy the maps and parameter settings...
http://www.turboxs.com/downloads/350...0ccpara28d.TXT


hope that helps get you started!

TODD

 

Is it not a requirement to change the setting for injector size? has that been removed or have they changed how the software works??

 

to my knowledge, it just remains "280" and "280"..you pull fuel out by making the 0 column negative numbers...this leans out idle and off boost cruise

TODD

 

exactly.....only use the 0% column to make adjustments........

you might want to try "-17" for a starting point in your 0% column.

I have 550 injectors, and I use "-15"...works well.

 

Can someone explain how the utec controls boost if the boost table are all zeros? How can you have a map for 6psi, one for 8psi and another for 10psi?

 

if you just throw in a map for 550 injectors, it will run pretty rich, then just adjust the 0 % column to around -17 and you will be fine till you get it tuned, dont get into boost at ALL!!!!!!

 

The map from turboxs page ,doesn´t work at all , I needed to modify the complete fuel map, even the parameters ( 14.7:1 of AFR with 3-4 lb of boost ,with my 3.5 bar fuel pressure regulator ,and 550cc injectors )
I wouldn´t use this map , you only need a -17 in the 0% column ,and don´t get into boost at all , until you get a good tune.

 

this is a ROUGH starting point..and many factors xist when tuning a car..this is why someone can't simply plug in a someone else' map and expect a great tune..fuel pressure must be similar, altitude, external temp...and every car, for whatever reason, will respond and react a bit differently..

their map is to get started and make sure that he car is safe out of boost..when breaking in an engine..one needs to allow the rings to seat to the cylinder walls..since we use primarily arias ED pistons is our builds, we are dealing with a very hard chrome top ring..tkaes a bit longer to seat compared to standard material rings


-TODD

 

Funny thing is I blew my last motor when I decided to run a map that someone sent to me and if I could find a map with 650cc injectors just to get me started I would feel more comfortable.. Surely someone out there uses 650cc injectors and if money is the issue in which most times it seems to be I would have no problems shelling out a few bucks for peace of mind..
brooke

 

guys, EVERY and i mean EVERY car is different, this is why people pay SO much money to get it tuned right...


there are soooooo many factors to a tune, you cant put ANY map in there and just rag on it and break it in.

you are basically asking for someone to give you what they payed someone 500-750 or spent 8-10 hours fully tuning it...

i used to be more into the sharing maps UNTIL i really started tuning things and realize the frustration and time put into each and every map.

LIKE I SAID, make the 0% column around -17 and dont get into boost, the other columns wont matter, they are only if you are into boost...

 

Sounds like something Sharif would say.. Next time I buy a built motor I will be sure to have a map First to get me started. Lesson Learned...

 

I really don't mean to sound so uptight but I have busted my butt doing a motor swap in my garage and I'm just ready to get going again. I just didn't want to have to make any changes because I'm afraid of screwing something up, thats why I was hoping to get a map from someone who already had 650cc injectors just to get me started until I have it tuned...
brooke

 

Todd thanks again for the help over the phone. Well it looks like I'm going to be using the aps 500cc map to break in my new motor and I will not get into boost within 1000 miles..
brooke

 

Brooke.. you install the motor yourself or ? Husband, boyfriend..?? Wish my wife would want to do $hit like you..

 

brooke is the screen name..unless you are looking for a male companion.."brooke" is named Harry, very much not a female

NP Harry, just as Jeremy said, stay out of boost, monitor your A/F when vacuum gets to 0 or 1 psi...keep the load low, alternate rpm during the break in...and make sure there is oil in the motor!!!!!


-TODD

 

I just threw up in my mouth a little..

 

 

Hey man.. you get any snow last night?? We have a 'snow day' today, in the desert for gods sake.. ice and slush all over the damn roads.. took me almost 2 hours to ge to work when it normally takes 10 mins..

$hit.. sorry about off-topic

 

Everyother forum shares maps. This is the only forum where people pretty much flat out refuse to share maps. If you put in the information in the utec about your injectors and stuff it will make a base map for you, then log it and adjust as nessacary. We did it on my buddys subaru its really not that hard it just takes sometime to get used to how the utec works.