www.gspec.com has the Crown heat wrapped one on their site for $40

 

Anyone have a diy or pics of this task? I have the car repair manual on pdf but it never has the handy tips and tricks that those of you who have done this already can share.

 

Also, just wanted to confirm that I can replace my clutch fluid with the Motul 600. I have a couple containers left from when i upgraded my brake lines.

 

Thanks Mia

 

I don't have a write up or how to link but its extremely easy to do. If you have ever done brake lines before its the exact same process but with only one line to replace and bleed. If you jack the car up and look under the drivers side you'll see the stock rubber line (it should have some factory heat wrap on it) going from the factory hard line to a banjo bolt on the bell housing. Remove the banjo bolt (keep a pan under it to catch the fluid) then remove the flare nut from the hard line and undo the metal U clip and remove the factory line. I added the factory heat wrap to my pre-heat wrapped Crown line and re-installed everything. (Just do the above in reverse order). Theres a bleed screw where the banjo bolt goes into the bell housing. Have a friend or your wife/girlfriend climb into the car. Pour in some high temp fluid into the clutch cylinder resevoir. I used Elf Frelub 650 but Motul RBF600 will work too. Open the bleed screw and have your helper pump the pedal. Keep doing the open pump, close, fill cycle till you get nothing but fluid out of the bleed screw. Once thats done it should feel just like it did when you first pushed the clutch in with the car cold. You can make all this easier by using a remote filler resevoir for the fluid or the vacuum bleeder.

 

Yes, same type of fluid for brakes and clutch hydro system.

 

How'd it turn out? Have you had a chance to test it in heavy traffic?

 

not back yet.

I need a new ABS system (I posted about that a while back...my slip/tcs/abs lights won't turn off anymore and the consult read voltage problems with the abs soenoids...) from what it looks like so I'm still waiting till all that is done. Hopefully end of this week

I'll post as soon as I got results

 

I should get my line in the mail tomorrow on the next day. I wont get to install it until the weekend of the 17t though. Eagerly awaiting your results.

 

Is there any trick to removing the part that connects to the hard line?? The lower section that connects to the slave looks simple its the upper part that makes me wonder. I stopped for now because I thought I might have to remove the lower support bar or whatever its called thats in the way slightly.

 

What model is your transmission? Ive had a CD007 and a CD009 and the latter is much more resistant to that soggy pedal feel when driving in traffic. I had the issue with a stock clutch, stock engine in hot weather in traffic. When my transmission was replaced, the clutch assembly and cylinders were also changed (not sure why, its actually part of the CD009 swap) and pedal feel and return was MUCH improved. Ive driven it in warm weather and it feels great. Also, launching the car with the old tranny caused the pedal to instantly fall to the floor and I'd have to wait 5 minutes to cool down.
Im interested in getting a SS line and new clutch/flywheel in a few thousand miles but I hope this information can help you some.

 

can you post a brief write up when you get done. I am gonna try to do it this coming weekend. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Yes I will try and gets pictures as soon as I figure out what tools I need if any to get the upper part of the line disconnected.

 

I was out driving today for about 3 hours going to open houses. It was only 60 degrees and i was obviously taking 20 minute breaks regularly during the trip to check out some places. In spite of the breaks, my clutch was still a real bear by the end of my trip. I really hope the line and new fluid + a bleed helps. I had no vibration/streetability issues with my jwt. I think that should mean that my master and slave cylinder should be ok.

 

Seems like the 10mm bolt will stip off trying to undo it.

 

Well you need to use a flare wrench for the flare nut going to the hard line. After that you should just have to remove the U clip that holds the fitting to the mounting bracket at the hard line.

 

yea I'm gonna go buy a flare wrench...lol

I ended up taking a few pieces of the TN piping out of the way to get better clearance. Not needed but my car is an 03 so a little bit more gunk under there.

I did notice however that the standard heat wrap is pretty much brittle from heat. I didn't imagine it got so hot under there but it is close the the exhaust pipes.

I will probably finish this up tomorrow after I get the right tool.

 

I went ahead and ordered some flare nut wrenches just in case. The instructions for the steering rack i just replaced on my old lady's camry said it may need a flare nut wrench but my standard open end worked just fine.

 

Well I don't know what to do the nut will not come off the hard line for anything. I used a Craftsman flare wrench and it doesn't matter.

 

So I guess plan B will involve cuting the line with a special tool, reflaring the tube and I need to get a new flare nut.

This blows

Anyone have a part number, EL OH EL

And I call BS on Nissan using 11-12lbs TQ from the factory