I posted about this a while back but since the weather got colder it wasn't much of an issue. Yesterday it was 94 degrees out here and I had to pull over because i was no longer able to shift.

The Problem:
I have the ATS dual clutch and when I'm in slow traffic with lots of stops after a while the clutch pedal starts sticking to the floor and I have to pull it out with my foot after every shift.
I was stuck in traffic at 94 degrees yesterday for 4 hours, the pedal stuck more and more and everytime I tried to engage the car started shaking violantly, When I was finally able to get over to the side the clutch wouldn't engage at all anymore even with the pedal pressed all the way to the floor.
I turned the car of and let it sit for 20 minutes. After that it was better again but not perfect. I started driving and went down the beach onto PCH which had less traffic but every stop I had to make it started sticking a bit more.
I finally got onto the topoanga canyon with no traffic and was able to drive without stops for 20 minutes after that all was back to normal...of course than I hit traffic again and it started sticking again.

so I believe this is definetely heat related.

When I originally discovered this problem I brought the car back to GTM and they bleed the clutch which we thought was the problem but that didn't do it.

Any suggestions? Could the Steel Braided line help, I have the OEM line? Could it be a faulty install/part?

The fact that I spend over 2 grand on this clutch that has given me nothing but headaches has me very frustrated

Please advice

 

This is exactly what happened to me when I had the factory rubber clutch line. I was driving up the 15N with a friend is very early morning times. No traffic. We were messing around and after a few minutes of full boost driving (120-140) same thing happened to me. I switched to a Crown SS clutch line and flushed in Elf Frelub 650 for clutch fluid and never had it happen again.

 

This is a pretty common issue with the 350Z clutch mechanism, and is fortunately not related to your expensive clutch. The cause of this is always one or all of the following things: Defective slave cylinder, defective master cylinder, an OEM rubber cluch line, or a leak somewhere in the system. Small leaks can be very difficult to detect. I'd start troubleshooting there...let us know what it is.

 

thanks guys.

I guess I'll start with a stainless steel line.
I was looking at the Nismo SS line is that good enough?

 

the stock clutch line was the problem with my car when I was NA with the tilton clutch and crawford headers/cats, etc etc

be sure to thermowrap the SS clutch line if it doesn't already come wrapped with something

 

I prefer this one

http://www.importpartspro.com/tesscllini35.html

But that's just me

 

When you install the line, cover it with some ThermoTec heat reflecting tape.

 

I used the Crown one like I said. I got mine from www.gspec.com and used Elf Frelub650 for the cluid but you could also use something like Motul RBF600 if you prefer. The Crown line I used has heat wrap pre-installed on it (same fuel line heat wrap AAM uses on their Stage 2 fuel kit line)

 

Any updates? My ATS did this yesterday so now I'm looking at what to do. Could just changing the fluid be a good place to start?

 

You can try just flushing in some high temp fluid but the Crown SS line (pre-heat wrapped) is only $40. For such little cash its worth it to not have this issue...

 

Damn, I have pretty much the same problem and thought i was just retarded and could not drive. My clutch is fine for about 20 minutes then after that it gets really hard to drive and shakes pretty bad. I am ordering the clutch line and ordering some fluid. I probably wont get to install for 2 weeks so let me know how your install turns out and if it solves your problem.

 

We have some Stainless Steel lines instock for like 50 bucks shipped.....let us know......

Also we ourselves have run into the same problem and Sharif is correct in the areas/parts he has aimed you, but first and formost replace the clutch line because usually they swell up under extreme amounts of heat and the VQ motor is known to run a lil warm compared to others, especially if there FI....

 

Good info fellas, thanks!

 

Its not the money it's the me wanting a quick fix until I can get one to hawaii.

 

Hmm, any problems like this with the Exedy twin?

 

With all the Exedy clutches that we have done in house ,we have never had to replace or upgrade the clutch hose. although stainless steel line upgrade is a good idea no mater what clutch you are using

Sam

GT MOTORSPORTS

 

My car is at GTM right now, Sam told me that so far everything is fine with the pedal after installing the SS line. But they haven't driven it in heavy traffic yet.
From what I've been reading the SS line should take care of that problem at a minimum as Sam stated it's a worthwhile upgrade.

 

oh, by the way the nismo line that I ended up getting has heat wrap around it as well

 

Let us know if it's cured the problem in heavy traffic. I haven't opened my ATS Triple yet so I might try to swap it if this is an ATS issue.

 

tomcat, did you purchase the Nismo clutch line through GTM?

Reason I ask is that I'm having one heckuva time trying to find a vendor that lists prices and part numbers for that piece on their website...

Thanks in advance!