SC Update v1.1 (56K Beware)
02-21-2007, 06:42 PM
#1
SC Update v1.1 (56K Beware)
So here is the update that I promised for this week. It is quite long because I will be posting some of the same stuff as in the intial project thread so here it goes...
Design Intent and Goals
-375whp to start on stock motor
-Reduce bends and pressure loss that is associated with current supercharger systems due to the need to make their kits marketable by maintaining accessories.
-Make the kit on a budget ($5k) including fuel system so that I can put the extra money towards a good tuner and things that really bring the car together and make FI safe and reliable (not every day driver though).
-Manufacture 95% of the parts by myself via CNC and other quality fabrication means.
-Hopefully push my career further forward in engineering by show casing my work (in manufacturing or automotive for that matter).
-Hopefully make good power at a lower PSI then typical for Vortech kits (as the V2 is the head unit I have).
-Eliminate belt slippage.
Current parts that I have
-Vortech V2 supercharger Headunit
-Vortech Racing Bypass Valve
-CJM billet return system fuel rails
-Aeroquip -6AN fittings
-Aeroquip -6 braided SS fuel line
- Ummmmm.... a 350z
Parts that I still need to get
-Surge Tank (phunk feel free to chime in here if you want)
--8 Braided SS fel line
--8AN to dual -6AN y fitting
-Aeromotive A1000 external fuel pump
-Aeromotive FPR with dual inlet and single return
-Misc. Gauges
-Intercooler Core
-Silicone Hose Couplers
-Vacuum Hose
-Narrower Radiator
-Injectors
-Solid Motor Mounts
-Continuous duty oil pump
-Remote Oil Filter relocation kit
-And any of the parts which I am making
-UTEC
(Most likely I forgot something above)
Here are the key features of my kit:
Crank Pulley:
Hub: The hub will be the attachment point for the crank pulley shell. Will be made out of 4140 and should be started next week. It will also contain grooves for the harmonic dampening o-rings that are part of the assembly. Will recieve a black oxide coating most likely. Note: The metal is due in on Friday or on Monday and I may start machining it as early as next week.
O-Rings:
Shell: Constructed of aluminum this will bolt up to the hub and will be the outer part that sandwichs the o-rings. The current drawing shows a 10-rib serpentine belt for the SC but after more research I have decided that I am going to exhaust the option of a cog setup once more (booger jumps up and down with joy). Once I get the bracket made I will try to get the best guess on what size belt I need and see if I can get one in the right length with the right tooth profile for me to machine on a 4th axis CNC. This unit will be hard coated for added durability.
Note: Assembly will be balanced.
Main Bracket:
The main bracket will be made of CNC'd aluminum that is 3/4" thick and will have pocket machined in for weight savings. However, since I will require some sort of spacers behind it (attaches to two bolts on the front of the block and the two bolts where the A/C once was) I will be making a support system that runs from the A/C bolts to the outer most part of the bracket. This will be welded onto the bracket and will further increase it's ridgidy while maintaing a decent weight. Look for a update with the prototype within the next week or two!
Pulley System Bump Out:
As most anyone knows or could come to the conclustion of, a SC belt puts added stress on the nose of the crank. For this reason I am making my SC belt as close the the nose of the cank as possible which means that I must move the ribs for the alternator and PS a bit further out. I am going to make spacers that bump out the entire belt system. Origanally I was going to make a alternator pulley but decided against it because other projects may take higher priority that make the fabrication time savings well worth it.
Intercooler:
Big change of plans here. Origanally I was going to do an air-to-water intercooler but after further research I have decided to go with an air-to-air intercooler. This is for couple of reasons the main one being costs. Also after reading a bunch of books that my employeer had on intercooler design I came to the conlcuion that if designed properly I should be able to get minimal pressure loss and still achieve what I want to. The catcher here is that if I do this I am going to make it a v-mount setup partially for looks and partially because that will offer the shortest and most direct from my SC to the intercooler.
Radiator and Support:
Obviously between the need for a narrower radiator to allow room for the SC intake and the v-mount setup I will have to make a entire new front end for my car. I will be utilizing rectangle billet aluminum tube for the majority of the work. This will offer me a light and ridgid setup that will also allow me an easy means of mounting some of the auxillary things that I will have such as the remote oil filter.
Headunit:
The V2 headunit will be lubricated by a standalone oil system in order to reduce temperatures. This will be done with a simple oil reservoir that has synthetic oil and a continuous duty oil auxilary oil pump. The intake will run under the driver side unibody frame structure into the front driver side of the bumper and will have provisions for the PCV
Intake Tube:
This is still up in the air tobe honest. If I can get the engine low enough I may end up making an entirely new intake manifold that takes in air from the front and has a y pipe so that I can clear the under hood brace and get more equal distribution of air between cylinders. Otherwise I will be utilizing the K&N Typhoon intake tube and trying to increase the strength of the welds on the MAF plate.
Intake Manifold:
As mentioned above I would prefer to make an entire intake manifold. If I make a intake manifold and can get the inlet to go over the front of the engine I am going to go ***** out and make it DBW ITB's in the hopes that it can be tuned. I already have the design for this but we will see. Otherwise, as of late I have been prepping the stock manifold for boost. This included some machining of the tops of the front two runners, taking out five of the bolts for the upper plenum and getting ready to have a piece of aluminum welded in over the PCV area so that I can countersink the attachment bolts right there to reduce turbulance. I have also started sanding and polishing the manifold.
Thermostat Housing:
To be honest after playing aound this week I don't think there will be a need for this and I should be able to get it to work with the stock one.
Thanks for your continued support and input!
Sorry that none of the pictures showed up for some reason.
Design Intent and Goals
-375whp to start on stock motor
-Reduce bends and pressure loss that is associated with current supercharger systems due to the need to make their kits marketable by maintaining accessories.
-Make the kit on a budget ($5k) including fuel system so that I can put the extra money towards a good tuner and things that really bring the car together and make FI safe and reliable (not every day driver though).
-Manufacture 95% of the parts by myself via CNC and other quality fabrication means.
-Hopefully push my career further forward in engineering by show casing my work (in manufacturing or automotive for that matter).
-Hopefully make good power at a lower PSI then typical for Vortech kits (as the V2 is the head unit I have).
-Eliminate belt slippage.
Current parts that I have
-Vortech V2 supercharger Headunit
-Vortech Racing Bypass Valve
-CJM billet return system fuel rails
-Aeroquip -6AN fittings
-Aeroquip -6 braided SS fuel line
- Ummmmm.... a 350z
Parts that I still need to get
-Surge Tank (phunk feel free to chime in here if you want)
--8 Braided SS fel line
--8AN to dual -6AN y fitting
-Aeromotive A1000 external fuel pump
-Aeromotive FPR with dual inlet and single return
-Misc. Gauges
-Intercooler Core
-Silicone Hose Couplers
-Vacuum Hose
-Narrower Radiator
-Injectors
-Solid Motor Mounts
-Continuous duty oil pump
-Remote Oil Filter relocation kit
-And any of the parts which I am making
-UTEC
(Most likely I forgot something above)
Here are the key features of my kit:
Crank Pulley:
Hub: The hub will be the attachment point for the crank pulley shell. Will be made out of 4140 and should be started next week. It will also contain grooves for the harmonic dampening o-rings that are part of the assembly. Will recieve a black oxide coating most likely. Note: The metal is due in on Friday or on Monday and I may start machining it as early as next week.
O-Rings:
Shell: Constructed of aluminum this will bolt up to the hub and will be the outer part that sandwichs the o-rings. The current drawing shows a 10-rib serpentine belt for the SC but after more research I have decided that I am going to exhaust the option of a cog setup once more (booger jumps up and down with joy). Once I get the bracket made I will try to get the best guess on what size belt I need and see if I can get one in the right length with the right tooth profile for me to machine on a 4th axis CNC. This unit will be hard coated for added durability.
Note: Assembly will be balanced.
Main Bracket:
The main bracket will be made of CNC'd aluminum that is 3/4" thick and will have pocket machined in for weight savings. However, since I will require some sort of spacers behind it (attaches to two bolts on the front of the block and the two bolts where the A/C once was) I will be making a support system that runs from the A/C bolts to the outer most part of the bracket. This will be welded onto the bracket and will further increase it's ridgidy while maintaing a decent weight. Look for a update with the prototype within the next week or two!
Pulley System Bump Out:
As most anyone knows or could come to the conclustion of, a SC belt puts added stress on the nose of the crank. For this reason I am making my SC belt as close the the nose of the cank as possible which means that I must move the ribs for the alternator and PS a bit further out. I am going to make spacers that bump out the entire belt system. Origanally I was going to make a alternator pulley but decided against it because other projects may take higher priority that make the fabrication time savings well worth it.
Intercooler:
Big change of plans here. Origanally I was going to do an air-to-water intercooler but after further research I have decided to go with an air-to-air intercooler. This is for couple of reasons the main one being costs. Also after reading a bunch of books that my employeer had on intercooler design I came to the conlcuion that if designed properly I should be able to get minimal pressure loss and still achieve what I want to. The catcher here is that if I do this I am going to make it a v-mount setup partially for looks and partially because that will offer the shortest and most direct from my SC to the intercooler.
Radiator and Support:
Obviously between the need for a narrower radiator to allow room for the SC intake and the v-mount setup I will have to make a entire new front end for my car. I will be utilizing rectangle billet aluminum tube for the majority of the work. This will offer me a light and ridgid setup that will also allow me an easy means of mounting some of the auxillary things that I will have such as the remote oil filter.
Headunit:
The V2 headunit will be lubricated by a standalone oil system in order to reduce temperatures. This will be done with a simple oil reservoir that has synthetic oil and a continuous duty oil auxilary oil pump. The intake will run under the driver side unibody frame structure into the front driver side of the bumper and will have provisions for the PCV
Intake Tube:
This is still up in the air tobe honest. If I can get the engine low enough I may end up making an entirely new intake manifold that takes in air from the front and has a y pipe so that I can clear the under hood brace and get more equal distribution of air between cylinders. Otherwise I will be utilizing the K&N Typhoon intake tube and trying to increase the strength of the welds on the MAF plate.
Intake Manifold:
As mentioned above I would prefer to make an entire intake manifold. If I make a intake manifold and can get the inlet to go over the front of the engine I am going to go ***** out and make it DBW ITB's in the hopes that it can be tuned. I already have the design for this but we will see. Otherwise, as of late I have been prepping the stock manifold for boost. This included some machining of the tops of the front two runners, taking out five of the bolts for the upper plenum and getting ready to have a piece of aluminum welded in over the PCV area so that I can countersink the attachment bolts right there to reduce turbulance. I have also started sanding and polishing the manifold.
Thermostat Housing:
To be honest after playing aound this week I don't think there will be a need for this and I should be able to get it to work with the stock one.
Thanks for your continued support and input!
Sorry that none of the pictures showed up for some reason.
02-22-2007, 09:20 AM
#6
If I can get everything shipped here by next week it looks like next Friday will be the start of the hub and I will be sure to post pictures of it during the machining process just so some of the people who are not familiar with how things are made can see.
02-23-2007, 06:58 PM
#7
Material came in today for the crank hub. On Monday I am going to prep it for being fixtured in the CNC hopefully sometime next week. I am going to try and finalize the programming on Tuesday night and if all of my tooling is here I plan on machining it on Wednsday morning. I will give you guys an update and pictures if all goes well on Wednsday.
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02-23-2007, 07:07 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Quamen
Material came in today for the crank hub. On Monday I am going to prep it for being fixtured in the CNC hopefully sometime next week. I am going to try and finalize the programming on Tuesday night and if all of my tooling is here I plan on machining it on Wednsday morning. I will give you guys an update and pictures if all goes well on Wednsday.
02-24-2007, 04:55 AM
#9
My original plan was to buy the ATI dampner and make a new shell but in the end it would end up costing me a bunch more to do that it will know and I will have the benefit of saying that I did it myself.
All in all, yesterday was a good strive forward for me. I almost have the bracket designed (should be done by monday, just have to measure the rough prototpye and clean it up), and I also came to a conclusion on the intake manifold.
I decided that i am going to make an intake manifold and try to run the inlet over the front of the engine. Dara Sadona did it on here Texaco G35 (by pinching the tube) and Top secret did it on their Z (which was not a engine from a Gloria so you all know but a destroked VQ35). I think that if I take a 3" 45 degree aluminum bend and make a die to form the end to 2-1/8x3-1/2 I will have the same cross sectional area and I will have an inch less to try clearing.
This will aslo mean that I am going to make my solid engine mounts as I will need to lower the car as much as possible so this weekend I'm going to get under the car and see how much I can lower the engine before I start hitting the power steering lines and crossmember. I'm think that I can get somewhere between 5/8" and 3/4" out of it without modifying one of those two items.
All in all, yesterday was a good strive forward for me. I almost have the bracket designed (should be done by monday, just have to measure the rough prototpye and clean it up), and I also came to a conclusion on the intake manifold.
I decided that i am going to make an intake manifold and try to run the inlet over the front of the engine. Dara Sadona did it on here Texaco G35 (by pinching the tube) and Top secret did it on their Z (which was not a engine from a Gloria so you all know but a destroked VQ35). I think that if I take a 3" 45 degree aluminum bend and make a die to form the end to 2-1/8x3-1/2 I will have the same cross sectional area and I will have an inch less to try clearing.
This will aslo mean that I am going to make my solid engine mounts as I will need to lower the car as much as possible so this weekend I'm going to get under the car and see how much I can lower the engine before I start hitting the power steering lines and crossmember. I'm think that I can get somewhere between 5/8" and 3/4" out of it without modifying one of those two items.
02-27-2007, 09:16 AM
#13
In the upper left corner the two bolt holes are for the mounting point to the block (A/C flange) and the slots are so that I can actually use the supercharger to tension the belt. I may still need an idler pulley if I can not find the right belt though.
02-27-2007, 01:18 PM
#15
Small change in plans for the better I think. I decided at the last minute to just buy a ATI super damper hub and modify it to except a new shell. This came about due to an opportunity that a local shop offered me.
There are multiple reasons why I was ok with this even though I would like to make as much of the stuff as possible. The first is that by doing so it frees up a bunch of time for me to concentrate my attention on the bracket and get the program written and finalized so that I can make it next week. The other reason is that since the hub was only $100 it actually allows me to return some of the tooling that I have not used and will no longer need which brings the cost down to less then I was spending to make the hub to begin with.
While this is kind of the lazy way out I think that it was the better decision as it was cheaper and took less time. The shell on the other hand will be the cheapest things for me to make as it will not require special tooling, broachs, or a special fixture.
Even though I feel that I made the right decision for this project I'm sorry to disappoint you guys on this part of it and that I am not going to make it.
There are multiple reasons why I was ok with this even though I would like to make as much of the stuff as possible. The first is that by doing so it frees up a bunch of time for me to concentrate my attention on the bracket and get the program written and finalized so that I can make it next week. The other reason is that since the hub was only $100 it actually allows me to return some of the tooling that I have not used and will no longer need which brings the cost down to less then I was spending to make the hub to begin with.
While this is kind of the lazy way out I think that it was the better decision as it was cheaper and took less time. The shell on the other hand will be the cheapest things for me to make as it will not require special tooling, broachs, or a special fixture.
Even though I feel that I made the right decision for this project I'm sorry to disappoint you guys on this part of it and that I am not going to make it.
03-05-2007, 03:31 PM
#16
The ATI hub arrived today and I ordered the rest of my fuiel fittings and my Aeromotive A1000-6 FPR. They should be here this week. The metal for the bracket also showed up today and I am going to finish the CNC program tomarrow night and make it Wednsday morning assuming all goes well.
Solid motor mounts will be next on the list followed closely by the crank pulley shell.
Solid motor mounts will be next on the list followed closely by the crank pulley shell.
03-05-2007, 04:22 PM
#20
To be completely honest it looks like the one for the Z and it says on the invoice that is for the Z but the part number is 916069 which is not the specified hub for the Z unless they switched and did not update their site.
I'm going to run downstairs and see if it fits properly.
I'm going to run downstairs and see if it fits properly.