Ball bearings are for the circular motion of the shaft. There is still movement front to back. A bearing can be small ***** or it can be a flat or curved piece of smooth metal (ie Rod and Crank bearings). The thrust bearing is what seals the oil chambers on either side of the center cartridge where the shaft passes through and the wheels mount. When this becomes worn the oil is able to squezze by the bearing and into the exhaust wheel. Thats why he should check his plugs. If the plugs are oily then there is an internal motor issue (lower end generally). There is a slight possiblility it is valve seals but I've yet to see valve seals go bad on a VQ. If there is no oil on the plugs that means it is happening after the motor. The only oil source after the motor is the turbos.

 

Actually Garret does not sell any parts for GT series center cartidges. This makes it so you have to purchase the center cartridge as a complete unit unfortunetly this in turn makes it very expensive and practically the price of a new set of turbos.

 

Ouch, -1 for Garrett

 

Fun fun fun...

Thanks for all the great input guys!

I do appreciate it.


So right now I've got 3 options.

Option 1:
Broken engine. (But doubtful with my compression / leak numbers) Just a bit 'tired'. Unless I find some oil on the plugs, and then... I've got a smoking gun! (as well as car).

Option 2:
Bad trubos. (But I need to check both sides... I think the drivers side smokes worse then the passenger side...)

Option 3:
Still something wrong with getting the oil out of the turbos.
Never had this problem before... So why now?!?!


I know how much an engine build costs... (Hell I already own pistons and rods that I bought from Sharif over a year ago.)

Where would I find the turbo rebuild cost?!?!? That doesn't sound like something that I can just buy off a shelf.

Oh and as far as the curb... I was being stupid, and did something even more stupid. Live and learn... It was an important and expensive lesson in what happens when you lift when you drift.

spdkils

 

The turbos are a semi-shelf product. I can supply them if you need. Actually it can also be a nice time to do a small size upgrade! Unless you are really happy with the spool and don't want to go bigger.

One more thing that I thought of check all your crankcase vent tubes when you have the car on the lift. There is one on the back of the driver side valve cover. Checks it on that end and on the intake side. Sometimes when the crankcase vent is not connected and there is some excess blowby (high leakdown numbers) it can cause the crankcase to pressurize. This causes the oil reutrns to back up. When they back up the oil has to find somewhere to go...which in this case would be out the back of the turbos through the thurst washer or seal.

 

Well with the 3" exhaust I don't really have problems with boost. I can hit 14lbs on the stock waste gates no problem.

I've made a laundry list of things to check, I'm just trying to get an idea how much turbos cost to repair if they are damaged.

Should I take this to PM for price and schedule?

 

There are some places that can rebuild the turbos. They replace the cartridge with the seals and bearings. I believe the cost is around $500 per turbo plus labor in and out. If I find the place I'll post it for you.

 

Thanks captj3!

If the turbo is gone I'll be pretty ticked off.

I just don't want to ship the things to APS and back. That will take forever, if I can find someone who can do rebuilds stateside that would be much mo bedder.

I'm just trying to find costs and options... So once I do diagnose this SOB I'll have a clear direction all ready.

spdkils