QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

As Will has said in post, The 300v Used Oil analyses have not been good! I ran the 300V 5W40 and had much higher than normal amounts of aluminum, lead, and iron in my oil sample. Basically, this means that I am having piston, cylinder wall, and bearing wear at a rate higher than acceptable. The other 300V Used Oil Analyses show similar results!

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

I know this isn't a Z question but its about time to make a change to some good oil from my Titan as it becomes more of an off-road truck and less of a daily driver for the wife. Any recommendations for a Motul weight for that? Sharif I know you have (or at least had) a Titan. What oil are you using in that? Also do you have any Motul equivalent of 75W-140 for the diff? I'm throwing in a Detroit locker and I want to use some quality stuff. Everyone on the Titan forums seems to be using 75W-140 from Mobil 1 but the Motul 90PA is doing so well in my Z I'd like to use them again. Thanks.

Q45tech

Oil conventional or synthetic does NOT have very much lubricity period until it warms up above 100F.
Why cold cranking [at almost any time other than summer afternoon] causes so much wear and damage.
If you never cold crank [oil preheaters or only shut off for oil changes and maintenance] performance engines would easily last a million [or 2] miles of continuous running.
Mobil 1 and BMW proved it many many times.

Blu_Blur

iTrader: (1)

I have always thought about preheaters, especially after I put my turbo on.

Are there any that exist compatible for the 350Z?

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

nissan makes a "block heater" for our engines. what do they do? I doubt they really heat the block. I assum they must heat the oil and/or coolant.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Even in summer afternoon, that cold start will wear simply because there is no oil pressure at that moment.

40 to 100 deg C is the SAE definition of operating temperature range, and this is why an oil's viscosity index is based on these two temperatures. Below this, an oil does have lubricity, but it is not designed to operate as such. Hence the cold viscosity is measured in terms of resistance (centipoise) rather than flow (centistrokes).

Ester based oils are known to maintain film strength without pressure, and as such should be good for cold-start protection. They are also more stable in the presence of extreme heat, and as such are used for racing. However, they are prone for other issues such as ester hydrolysis, hydrolytic instability, and seal compatibility issues (esp. nitrile). So, it's a wash at best.

I want to clarify that my post earlier was to simply state that a thicker oil usually has a higher film strength, and therefore withstands stress and heat better than a thinner one. However, this is not always the case, since it's possible that the oil's chemistry can make a lighter grade of oil perform just as well as a thicker one in extreme stress and heat. The example I mentioned earlier about bio-based base stocks verses esters, I should have said the bio-base lubes were a lower grade, which helped improve efficiency and reduce pumping losses while maintaining the same or better level of protection than an ester. So, don't be in such a hurry to buy a xW-60 weight oil, when a good xW-40 may be just as good. If you're FI, do a UOA if you really want to know what works the best for your engine.

As far as Motul oils and the UOA's. I have not seen anything to justify the cost, as QuadCam has said, but there's opbviously nothing wrong with using their oil. Those who've used it and switched to an oil with better average results, also saw better results themselves. The main benefit of an ester based oil like Motul, is for racing, where the shear stability of the esters in extreme heat (like the turbo center section) are of utmost importance. The ability to start-up every day and drive to work is another matter. While it won't damage your engine, and the higher UOA results are not anything catastrophic, spending so much for an oil to use it outside of it's best application is a personal call of what one really wants to spend money on. But there is nothing to say it's superior, or even as good as, a less expensive G3 oil for many applications, as my example from the lubes n' greases article was meant to state.

Will

Blu_Blur

iTrader: (1)

I will have to look this up. Thanks.

06Track

Copied from Masterlube.net site. Ran these on Offshore Marines engines as they
aren't started everyday and are freaking expensive. Just some insurance. Work
GREAT!!! Some info:

Facts...
•
Over 80-90% of all engine wear occurs in the first 5-10 seconds when it is first started. Lack of lubrication causes friction, which causes the wear and damage that occurs. This damage is accelerated by the length of time between engine startes.
•
Prelubrication will increase engine life, reduce maintenance, decreased friction allows easier starting from the reduced current draw needed by the starter.
•
The resulting wear is accumulative... the "Dry Starting" of the engine causes "metal-to-metal" friction at initial startup, however Prelubrication of the engines with oil eliminates the normal scuffing and friction. "Dry Start" wear is Preventable...

After all your efforts and investments of both time and money, the last thing you want to happen is Engine Trouble! Or even worse, who wants to be driving their new rod across country tow, when something as simple as Prelubricating your engine before it was started could have prevented the "Dry Start" damage... damage to the cam, the fuel pump lobe, rocker arm, valve tip, or even a rod or main bearing. Since this type of damage accumulates, it is so important to stop it before it happens.

In the past it was a difficult and time consuming proposition to Prelubricate your engine. Now, with the MasterLube System you have many options and 2 unique methods to prevent "Dry Start" engine wear and damage.

Method 1...
With the MasterLube PreLubrication-Accumulator System, you get a state of the art Patented Electronic Valve & Cylinder that, once installed in your vehicle, is as simple to use as turning a switch, waiting 3 to 5 seconds for oil pressure to register on the vehicles gauge (your engine is now full prelubed), releasing the switch, and starting the engine!

Once the engine is running, the system will automatically be refilled with the oil that was just pushed into the engine. With the MasterLube System, you can always start your engine and have one less thing to worry about.

Vader007

iTrader: (23)

The second number is the true running weight of the oil at temp.
the first number is the viscosity when the oil is cold and I strongly disagree about the use of such a heavy oil on the street, a 10w40 is about as far as
you want to go with a modern engine such as the VQ, just my two cents!

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

I would suppose it depends on how he had his motor built. If he is added an extra .001" here and there, a heavy oil might be the right call.

Vader007

iTrader: (23)

Yes I agree with that statment but todays oils are far advanced over years ago and with a quality synthetic such as Motul, Amsoil, Enos, Elf, Mobile 1 and so on the protection engineered in the composition not the viscosity. Its been proven time and time again that the additives are the most important part of the oil, not is base or viscosity index also a wider spread in index is more work for the oil.
There are many hard core racers using 5w30 and 10w40 these days also you have to keep in mind that a thicker oil takes longer to come up to operating temp and requires more power to circulate, actually bogs the engine down.

grudum

Does this MasterLube PreLubrication-Accumulator System work with the Z? Will the bottle fit?

Can you install it on your own or do you have to take a bunch of crap apart?

How do you buy one if you wanted to give it a shot. The link on the site is broken.

06Track

grudam...they make them in different capacities and refill themselves
to the maximum oil pressure your engine saw while refilling. cpperformance.com
sells them for marine use and I am sure you can contact them for size options.
They are easy to install...had two in a twin engine boat and gave 50 lbs. of
oil pressure before starting.

Q45tech

The problem is you do not know the viscosity above 100C and whether the graph continues in a linear manner above 212F to the 270F range.

One can assume synthetics are more linear than wide scatter multi Dalton* conventional oil molecules.

* Dalton unit of molecular size