High Temp Sealant
Originally Posted by THE TECH
Never heard of such a thing. What are you trying to do?
Originally Posted by DBTRACK
pepboys has it
Originally Posted by Cannysage
use some sealant on the turbo side
right on, thanks.
right on, thanks.
Originally Posted by THE TECH
Hmm. I think it will only be a bandaid. A good gasket is the best bet. Do your Greddy's not work for some reason?
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Ultra Cooper....Napa has it. It's the highest temp sealant they carry.
just got one (650deg) I guess.. wonder if that would be enough..
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Originally Posted by Cannysage
I have APS and I'm not sure if they make gaskets for that side.
omg.. I was just straining my brain, trying to think what the hell the name was (NAPA)... being a psychic is going beyond the call of duty- customer service
just got one (650deg) I guess.. wonder if that would be enough..
omg.. I was just straining my brain, trying to think what the hell the name was (NAPA)... being a psychic is going beyond the call of duty- customer service
just got one (650deg) I guess.. wonder if that would be enough..
Originally Posted by Cannysage
just got one (650deg) I guess.. wonder if that would be enough..
I use T442 RTV Silicone that I buy at International Harvester, that they use instead of gaskets on their Diesels. Shelf life sucks, and if you get some on your inner arm for example, it will take ur skin with it when you peel it off. But it seals like a MF, Its awesome stuff.
^I used the RTV sealant also. I used it to seal the two bolts on top of the crawford plenum which are prone to leaking. Its pretty dangerous stuff. My leg was roasted after i spilled it on it when I broke the metal cap lol.
ya the ultra copper is the way to go. if your flanges are mostly smooth, just a small bead of it will work WAY better than a gasket. it smashes into a paper thin film that is under compression, thus making the heat range of it withstand alot more than advertised. the advertised heat range is if you use it to actually fill an open gap.
i use it on all of my turbo/wastegate flanges and not one has ever leaked!
i use it on all of my turbo/wastegate flanges and not one has ever leaked!
Originally Posted by Eazzzzzzy
Ya, no joke, I smeared some on my belly and when I noticed it an hour later and peeled it off, It was like I got splashed with hot grease, skin was GONE !!!!
I don't think anything silicone RTV related will work for down pipe purposes. Even the copper... The silicone will decompose/vaporize and leave some copper dust behind.
I couldn't say how long it would last, but the mufler repair kits with the Sodium Sillicate paste is probably your best bet. Just use the paste, not the fiberglass mats with it. Sometimes you can find tubes of it without the mats.
It will set in 5 minutes and harden in about 30. At least it will tolerate the expected temperatures without docomposing. Its good to about 2200'F.
This will only work on small leaks.
I couldn't say how long it would last, but the mufler repair kits with the Sodium Sillicate paste is probably your best bet. Just use the paste, not the fiberglass mats with it. Sometimes you can find tubes of it without the mats.
It will set in 5 minutes and harden in about 30. At least it will tolerate the expected temperatures without docomposing. Its good to about 2200'F.
This will only work on small leaks.
^^APS and Garrett recomend the sealant^^
We have taken APS kits off cars after thousands of miles, and the sealant is still pretty much intact. In theory, two perfectly machined surfaces do not need a gasket at all. I believe the sealant is just an extra precaution.
We have taken APS kits off cars after thousands of miles, and the sealant is still pretty much intact. In theory, two perfectly machined surfaces do not need a gasket at all. I believe the sealant is just an extra precaution.
Originally Posted by Hydrazine
I couldn't say how long it would last, but the mufler repair kits with the Sodium Sillicate paste is probably your best bet. Just use the paste, not the fiberglass mats with it. Sometimes you can find tubes of it without the mats.
It will set in 5 minutes and harden in about 30. At least it will tolerate the expected temperatures without docomposing. Its good to about 2200'F.
This will only work on small leaks.
I was staring at this TN I have on my desk this morn, thinking about this thread and was about to consider using a good coat of Anti Seize between the flanges just for the heck of it
I've used the sealant on both side of the APS 3.5" downpipes. Put it on, let it dry a bit (tightening the bolt right away, will have it all seep out), then tightened the bolts. I didn't hear any leakage and it sounded good. when the stuff dried, it was hard and rubbery. My Old downpipes had the same stuff, but it wears out (had a leak later on, on the turbo side). I think I'd trust a gasket over this, but I think it'll hold for now.



