vortech FAQ: read this before asking vortech questions
03-10-2010, 05:02 PM
#881
the rods will handle my power fine.. i wont make more than 400whp wich is finefor a stock block.. and im only runing stock pulley wich is low boost.... with the cams it makes everything run more efficient.. idc about power it is what it is ... i just want reliability wich is why im sticking with stock pulley ..plus im curious
03-10-2010, 11:43 PM
#882
the rods will handle my power fine.. i wont make more than 400whp wich is finefor a stock block.. and im only runing stock pulley wich is low boost.... with the cams it makes everything run more efficient.. idc about power it is what it is ... i just want reliability wich is why im sticking with stock pulley ..plus im curious
03-11-2010, 02:14 PM
#887
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I wouldn't rev the stock block to 7200rpms. I think that was a typo because you said after that 7k. I know of a few revving to 7100rpms on stock block but it's risky. It will also depend on what shape your valve springs are in. The stock valvesprings will start to crap out about 7k which means the valves will float and possible valve to piston contact.
You'll notice with stock valvetrain you won't pull much more hp after 7k. Valvefloat will also happen sooner if the cams are a higher than stock lift.
I think you'll be good at 7k. Truthfully, you should have put in some nice valvesprings when you put in cams so you wouldn't have to worry about valve float but that's life.
Good job on the numbers.
You'll notice with stock valvetrain you won't pull much more hp after 7k. Valvefloat will also happen sooner if the cams are a higher than stock lift.
I think you'll be good at 7k. Truthfully, you should have put in some nice valvesprings when you put in cams so you wouldn't have to worry about valve float but that's life.
Good job on the numbers.
03-11-2010, 05:55 PM
#888
yeah thanks for the info.. just for u telling me that im not gunna shift past 6800 rpms just to be safe.. i dont care if i made 50 extra hp at 7000 lol.. i care mostly about reliability wich is why i stuck with 3.33 to me its fast enough i never wanted more than 400whp i think its the perfect number for a DD im only 19 and just want this thing to LAST ME... i figured the valvesprings is the only thing i mesed up on.. http://www.youtube.com/user/akkshun0.../1/KBBD3X0lMyY thhats My dynotuning!
03-12-2010, 07:46 PM
#892
whatsup joe good meeting you at rt...yea 400+whp is enough for me...and doing it on 3.12 with only couple bolt ons still amazes me...230 stock to 408 with vortech is huge jump...im more then happy and the thing that really blows my mind is that i passed nj state inspection at dmv two days after tune! idles perfect...runs and boosts perfectly smooth like im in a plane...i had a whole plan pan out better then i could image number wise... i love this car...and thanks to alot of reading through this forum..couldnt have done it without this place...binder was also a big help...thanks man.
and the thing that really blows my mind is that i passed nj state inspection at dmv two days after tune! idles perfect...runs and boosts perfectly smooth like im in a plane...i had a whole plan pan out better then i could image number wise... i love this car...and thanks to alot of reading through this forum..couldnt have done it without this place...binder was also a big help...thanks man.
Last edited by akks350z; 03-12-2010 at 07:57 PM.
03-13-2010, 09:03 PM
#893
same akks... u got great numbers..i cant imagine what the power feels like! il be going back to rt on the 27th and im going to get an oil cooler as well as bigger maf.. than retune,i figure ill put it on before the summer comes and than its way to hot.. considering my body has 119k miles on stock cooling system besides hoses
03-14-2010, 10:45 AM
#894
The problem that our internals have is that they can not handle TQ above 400 to well. You can easily push 420whp with a supercharger and still be safe, because your TQ will still be below 370. With a turbo you get alot more TQ at the same power levels. That's why you see blown stock motors. You should be perfectly fine at 400whp. As long as your tune is good you are going to be just fine. Also remember you will get bored with the 3.33 within a few months and want to upgrade. It happened to all of us. I would go with the 3.12 at least and pay for the tune one time. Good luck with your project.
03-14-2010, 02:39 PM
#895
I have a question for u folks..
I live in Denmark, and I have been searching/asking around for a good tuner here in little Denmark...
I found some anyways, don't know if they are good tuners..
but how to tell if it is a good tune or not?
If anyone knows a good tuner in Germany I'm willing to do a road trip..
Thanks
I live in Denmark, and I have been searching/asking around for a good tuner here in little Denmark...
I found some anyways, don't know if they are good tuners..
but how to tell if it is a good tune or not?
If anyone knows a good tuner in Germany I'm willing to do a road trip..
Thanks
03-14-2010, 04:14 PM
#896
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The problem that our internals have is that they can not handle TQ above 400 to well. You can easily push 420whp with a supercharger and still be safe, because your TQ will still be below 370. With a turbo you get alot more TQ at the same power levels. That's why you see blown stock motors. You should be perfectly fine at 400whp. As long as your tune is good you are going to be just fine. Also remember you will get bored with the 3.33 within a few months and want to upgrade. It happened to all of us. I would go with the 3.12 at least and pay for the tune one time. Good luck with your project.
Or go with the 2.87 and leave your rev limiter at 6600. I think revving past 6600 is worse than a higher whp. I know you said you would shift sooner but I promise you will find yourself going past 6800 as the vortech will keep pulling all the way till redline. I started out with a 3.12 and was bored in a week. I now have the 2.87 and it's decent. Torque and high revving is what kills our engines. At the very least do the 3.12 pulley.
03-15-2010, 03:26 AM
#898
Question
Was tightening my belts yesterday. So I had to remove that piece of SC exhaust tubing .. I noticed a film of oil in the tubing and at the valve immediatly after; in between the intake side of the intercooler and the SC, 'what valve is that?' Is that the pcv valve? Bear with me i'm noob to this
Is that normal? to have that film of oil? Proly got it in my intercooler as well. I have a oil catch can (greddy). Correct me if i'm wrong but but occ only keeps oil out of the intake manifold. Not the rest of things..?
I cleaned the tubing and seals with some "kaboom" and tightened my main belt. Was noticing some belt \dust in the engine comp. Gained a lil over 1 psi in the process. Was proly belt not the cleaning. : )
Is that normal? to have that film of oil? Proly got it in my intercooler as well. I have a oil catch can (greddy). Correct me if i'm wrong but but occ only keeps oil out of the intake manifold. Not the rest of things..?
I cleaned the tubing and seals with some "kaboom" and tightened my main belt. Was noticing some belt \dust in the engine comp. Gained a lil over 1 psi in the process. Was proly belt not the cleaning. : )
Last edited by Synjn; 03-15-2010 at 03:43 AM.
03-15-2010, 05:55 AM
#899
Was tightening my belts yesterday. So I had to remove that piece of SC exhaust tubing .. I noticed a film of oil in the tubing and at the valve immediatly after; in between the intake side of the intercooler and the SC, 'what valve is that?' Is that the pcv valve? Bear with me i'm noob to this
Is that normal? to have that film of oil? Proly got it in my intercooler as well. I have a oil catch can (greddy). Correct me if i'm wrong but but occ only keeps oil out of the intake manifold. Not the rest of things..?
I cleaned the tubing and seals with some "kaboom" and tightened my main belt. Was noticing some belt \dust in the engine comp. Gained a lil over 1 psi in the process. Was proly belt not the cleaning. : )
Is that normal? to have that film of oil? Proly got it in my intercooler as well. I have a oil catch can (greddy). Correct me if i'm wrong but but occ only keeps oil out of the intake manifold. Not the rest of things..?
I cleaned the tubing and seals with some "kaboom" and tightened my main belt. Was noticing some belt \dust in the engine comp. Gained a lil over 1 psi in the process. Was proly belt not the cleaning. : )
1. you have blown the seals of your vortech unit.
Fix- blower rebuild
2. If you have the stock air filter that came with your kit, there is a hose that goes from the rear driver side valve cover to your filter. Sometimes you will get oil blow by from that hose and into the filter. The blower will then shoot some of that oil down the pipe. You will probably notice some oil on your sway bar that is coming out of the Bypass valve.
Fix- replace the stock filter with one that dose not require a hose from the valve cover, and put a crank case filter on the hose or the rear of the valve cover. I did this and no more oil blowby issues.
03-15-2010, 07:01 AM
#900
That valve is your bypass valve. There are two possible reasons for having oil in there.
1. you have blown the seals of your vortech unit.
Fix- blower rebuild
2. If you have the stock air filter that came with your kit, there is a hose that goes from the rear driver side valve cover to your filter. Sometimes you will get oil blow by from that hose and into the filter. The blower will then shoot some of that oil down the pipe. You will probably notice some oil on your sway bar that is coming out of the Bypass valve.
Fix- replace the stock filter with one that dose not require a hose from the valve cover, and put a crank case filter on the hose or the rear of the valve cover. I did this and no more oil blowby issues.
1. you have blown the seals of your vortech unit.
Fix- blower rebuild
2. If you have the stock air filter that came with your kit, there is a hose that goes from the rear driver side valve cover to your filter. Sometimes you will get oil blow by from that hose and into the filter. The blower will then shoot some of that oil down the pipe. You will probably notice some oil on your sway bar that is coming out of the Bypass valve.
Fix- replace the stock filter with one that dose not require a hose from the valve cover, and put a crank case filter on the hose or the rear of the valve cover. I did this and no more oil blowby issues.
Is this the stock air filter that comes with the kit? These are the only lines i could see. I don't see any one going directly to the air filter. Don't understand why an air filter would need an oil line either.
Could you help me out and identify these lines for me.
Thankx in advance
Last edited by Synjn; 03-15-2010 at 07:06 AM.