Greddy guru's..need help...have a question
Originally Posted by ZU L8R
Wideband?
the air to fule ratio? right?
and the reason i asked coz then he can know if he is reading rich or lean..
ok here is what i thing...
as every 1 said its not a big thing it all has to do with tuning...
how ever the dyno tuning is differing from what i have noticed in the Z in general at least me a couple of friends had this happening... and it has to do with the dyno being different than running on street load on engin boost holding and other stuff.. so I recommend that u do some street tuning where u just drive and the tuner will get to look at the AFR gage or his laptop readings and thats where u get the best tuning...and then after that i suggest that u run a full 5th gear to make sure that u have all the readings right I think 5th gear will put enough load on ur car to prove or show any bugs in there and I wish u all the best of luck..
as every 1 said its not a big thing it all has to do with tuning...
how ever the dyno tuning is differing from what i have noticed in the Z in general at least me a couple of friends had this happening... and it has to do with the dyno being different than running on street load on engin boost holding and other stuff.. so I recommend that u do some street tuning where u just drive and the tuner will get to look at the AFR gage or his laptop readings and thats where u get the best tuning...and then after that i suggest that u run a full 5th gear to make sure that u have all the readings right I think 5th gear will put enough load on ur car to prove or show any bugs in there and I wish u all the best of luck..
We had a simliar issue with an EU tuned car. The EU is very funny at times, especially as it relates to the crank position signal. I can almost guarantee, that if you switch to the UTEC, or the VPRO, the issue will be completley solved. Since you are running a buit engine at higher boost, I would prefer the FCON, but the UTEC can work as well.
Sam highly recoomended the VPRO and I'd love to go that route but the question is...is it worth it and WILL it solve my problem completely? What I don't understand is how it 'changed' from running perfect to running like crap half the time.
To the response about street and dyno tuning : Sam dyno tunes it and then street tunes it afterwards to make sure everything is fine. He mentioned that there is a small rich spot in the graph that he tried correcting but also mentioned that this spot should not be enough to cause the car to do this. I was really hoping this would be the last of fixing the car but it looks like I might have to start saving for the VPRO. Sam was telling me that he doesn't like trying other things unless he knows what the exact problem is and I agree. If I were to spend 3200 on the VPRO to have the same problem I'd never forgive myself.
Another suggestion he gave me was to tune the car for 1 psi setting as oppose to the low/high boost settings I have now ( 10 and 15 psi) to get better cell resolution.
Anymore suggestions would be appreciated!
Thanks,
-Anthony
To the response about street and dyno tuning : Sam dyno tunes it and then street tunes it afterwards to make sure everything is fine. He mentioned that there is a small rich spot in the graph that he tried correcting but also mentioned that this spot should not be enough to cause the car to do this. I was really hoping this would be the last of fixing the car but it looks like I might have to start saving for the VPRO. Sam was telling me that he doesn't like trying other things unless he knows what the exact problem is and I agree. If I were to spend 3200 on the VPRO to have the same problem I'd never forgive myself.
Another suggestion he gave me was to tune the car for 1 psi setting as oppose to the low/high boost settings I have now ( 10 and 15 psi) to get better cell resolution.
Anymore suggestions would be appreciated!
Thanks,
-Anthony
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