Has anyone heard of this part for the APS TT kit? Supposedly it keeps the car's turbos from over oiling causing it to smoke under deceleration. Does anyone know anything about this part and if it does fix this problem? Thanks!

Part # APS-350z-SOC-08

 

I can't bring up APS's site right now, but I think it is the electronic solenoid for their single turbo.

Stop wasting your effort and time. Figure out which turbo, or both, and pull them to be replaced/repaired. There is no magical fix for a bad turbo

 

Zivman, i know you think i have a bad turbo. I appreciated your advice but as of now, My installer and I both don't think we have bad turbos. So we are trying to find a solution that will fix the turbos over oiling problems.

 

Keeping a close eye on this thread...

 

skidmarq, are you having this same problem?

 

Possibly.

Like you, I have a pretty severe smoking problem but unlike you I also am also seeing some power loss between 4500-5500 RPM. I might have a couple issues going on...

 

I can all but guarantee you have a bad turbo or turbos. ONLY other thing it could be is an install f^ck up, in which case, if your shop is half way competent, it would have been fixed by now.

I have been down the road before, spent the time and money to have it fixed. Search out my threads about my issue if you like, they sound VERY similar to the threads you are starting.

Just let me know when you break down and pull the turbos to be fixed

 

If you cannot order the part, you can effectively create your own using a standard solenoid for other fluid/gas applications (i.e. NOS) and wire it per APS' instructions

 

The solenoid, if it is the one I am thinking of, would do nothing for the TT setup. having a check valve (solenoid) is needed for the single turbo because the turbo sits low and cannot gravity feed the returns. As a result, if the car sits not running, the oil will be gravity fed to the turbo, and back up and then be pushed passed the seals, into the IC piping, etc. As a result, the solenoid is used. It is wired to a switched ignition to open up when the car is started, the same time the return pump starts.

 

There is no one else on this forum that has this problem? Honestly, nobody knows how to fix this problem? or knows what the APS Oil Control Solenoid is? Im calling for my Z brothers to help me out!

 

Abishop, listen to Zivman. He's not the only one who had to replace turbos from APS due to excessive smoking on decel.

 

Did these people send the turbos to Garrett? Because its clearly Garrett's turbos that are bad not the APS kit.

 

You have to send them to APS. From my understanding Garrett designed those turbos stricly for APS.

 

This quote is from the Garrett Website "Ball-bearing turbochargers can benefit from the addition of an oil restrictor, as most engines deliver more pressure than a ball bearing turbo requires. The benefit is seen in improved boost response due to less windage of oil in the bearing. In addition, lower oil flow further reduces the risk of oil leakage compared to journal-bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure entering a ball-bearing turbocharger needs to be between 40 psi and 45 psi at the maximum engine operating speed. For many common passenger vehicle engines, this generally translates into a restrictor with a minimum of 0.040" diameter orifice upstream of the oil inlet on the turbocharger center section. Again, it is imperative that the restrictor be sized according to the oil pressure characteristics of the engine to which the turbo is attached. Always verify that the appropriate oil pressure is reaching the turbo."

Whats the oil pressure of the Z?

And does the APS kit come with restrictors to get the psi into this range?

 

The APS supplied turbos come with restrictors in place. It isn't a design issue that is causing this. You can't, and shouldn't have to, reengineer the kit to have it work for you. The design is fine. The oil pressure has been accounted for by APS. That said, some turbos may come off the line/shelf with very sensitive seals that regardless of install or R&D in the setup will have issues like you are seeing.

Take my advise, put a true dual on the car - one that does not incorporate an H or X pipe. Use that to determine which side(s) is smoking. At that point, pull the turbo(s). Have your shop work with the supplier of the kit and figure out how to remedy the situation. If that means sending them back to APS, then send them back. if that means having them serviced locally, then have then serviced locally. I will bet the supplier will have you send them back to them for inspection and work from there.

 

Zivman, do you think i could check if i simply took off my x pipe on my EVO2 exhaust? Is there a way to check of the seals are bad if you pull off the test pipes? Like vertical or horizontal play in the shaft?

 

Yes, if you pull off the y-pipe and run open test pipes, you'll see which one is smoking.

 

You might be able to tell. it was hard for me to with my evo2. We had the exhaust down and it was very hard. Until my shop bolted up the APS 2.5" duals, we couldn't tell. It ended up being the driver's side bank if I remember correctly.

I would talk to your shop and tell them, "hey, we need to determine which bank is smoking. Is it one or both?"

 

well i dropped off my car again to Boulder Nissan. Put a oil catch can on it and didn't fix anything other then a lil bit of oil into the plenum. I pray to god that it gets fixed soon. I told them to check the turbos, if the seals were bad, send them out for new ones. This sucks putting on a new kit just to take it apart again!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Have you tried all the simple checks/fixes? Properly trimming the oil lines to maintain consistent and direct gravity feed? Keeping the oil level on the "L" mark? Might be basic....so worth a try....if you havent tried already. It will take 50-100 miles for oil to burn off your exhaust system as well, so keep that in mind.