hi how do i solve or minimize the coolant racing, i already have :nismo thermostat,samco hoses,radiator cap. do i need a big radiator?

 

is coolant racing some technical term??

 

coolant racing?

you mean like heat soak?

none of those really do anything for heat soak. they are dressup pieces

 

A larger radiator is the key ingredient to keeping coolant temps manageable. What type of boost levels are you running, and do you track the car?

 

actually, the fluid inside matters even more, we run 90% distilled water, with some water wetter or purple ice , a gutted thermo, and 10 % coolant to smell if it is leaking. we dont see temps over 180 EVER...


good thing we live in florida though, not recommended anywhere that it gets cold...

 

both statements above work. i run a full 3" custom rad in my car with gutted thermo. it seems though in my set up, the fluid runs to quick through the rad to get the full effiecientcy. i have a couple 12" fans too. it will run 150 degrees (60 average ambient) on freeway and driving, but will raise to 210-220 while in traffic if sitting to long. the thermo will add alot of consistentcy to your temp, but still recommend drilling a 3/16-1/4" hole in it to help initial rad filling and aid in flow. i personally will be adding a custom made fan shroud (my main prob in traffic temps) and evans nrg coolant. might do a couple 10" push fans too for the heck of it.

 

running gutted thermo's on dailys is just stupid. EFI cars need to warm up to temp for many reasons including;

clearences
oil temp
fueling mixures

just to name a few. On ur old 60's small block is may be ok, but stuffed if i would EVER recommend anyon with a modern engine doing so. If u cant cool an engine properly with a thermostat, u have other problems.

 

It depends on what you plan on doing with the car. We have run stock rads on the street, and see no issues with overheat. But if you circuit track the car just once on a hot day, you will definately need an upgraded rad, and a few other items to make the engine happier. Even stockish NA track guys see elevated coolant temps. I quick pass down the 1/4 mile doesnt really tax the cooling system, to the extent that a 20-30 min track session would.

So what is the plan for this car?

 

do Gs just not have the same cooling issues as the Z due to the G having the open upper grille in the bumper?

I have the stock radiator, stock thermostat, and I am running a an 80/20 mix of some kind of coolant/distilled water mix. My water temp gauge never budges.

 

Hasn't caused a single issue for me in 2 years. I start my car in the morning and allow it to warm up to operating temp before I ever put it in grear. Ambient temp under cruise and driving is in the 180-185 range. In traffic for hours never more then 190~. At the track 200 is the max I've seen. Previously car was 195 in cruise, 200-205 in traffic and steady 205 at the track. I got tired of swapping out failed thermostats. I tried two stocks and a Nismo. All of them failed within a few months of each other. I removed the thermostat from the assembly two years ago and have been just fine like that. Also added a Nismo rad cap and flushed in some Watter Wetter. Never once an issue.

 

thanks for the info sharif i already bought the 52mm koyo radiator from you on this tuesday iam from puerto rico,ad ding more info of my car , i have a built motor with a greddy kit, i am making on 50-50 mix of 93 and 116, 620whp and 708 with a 100 shot of nos. is a daily driving car,but i like to drag.i will make the coolant bypass too.

 

If that is the stock gauge then it is useless when trying to keep track of cooling temps, my aftermarket gauge moves from 140 to 210 during warm up and oscillate between 160 and 210 during traffic and the stock gauge doesn't move. Even when I had overheating issues the stock one wouldn't move even when the other one was passing past 240.

 

You never seem to amaze me buddy. I love how u deduce fact from fiction. Always a great laugh.

OK, i am going to give this a go with one veryyyyyyyy simmmmmmpleeeee exaaammpllee.

With thermostat, my car takes 3 minutes to get upto operating tempreture during a 50deg day.
Without thermostat, it took 15minutes, to initally get upto operating temp.

From this, i dedude that without thermostat, the engine will approximitly cause 5x the amount of wear due to cold running conditions. It will also use 5x the amount of fuel due to cold start maps.

Look mum, i am smarts!

 

The stock gauge is not useless. It has the functonality for a reason. The reason is, these ranges are acceptable operating tempretures and will cause no harm the engine.

There is alot of differences between something that is useless, and something that abstracts useless information.

 

I have yet to see my car take 15 minutes to reach 180 degrees which is the operating temp my car runs at currently. Its rarely 50 degrees where I live but even then it has taken no more then 7 minutes EVER idling in my garage to reach 180 degrees. How would I know? My car doesn't go in gear until its at least at 180 Degrees F. You can claim whatever you like but you do not live in Southern California and you don't have my car so who are you to tell me what my water temps are and how long they take to reach 180 degrees? I've verified the water temps via both OBD2 datalog and an analog water temp sensor in the return coolant hose to the radiator. But I guess you know more about a car in Southern California that belongs to and is driven by me then I do. Look mum you're dumb

 

Interesting post considering you just knocked me for running my motor too cold. My stock temp gauge starts moving into the "operating range" area within 4 minutes of starting the car and before I am even reading 120 degree F temps on the water temp sensor. But I forgot you know more about what my car and coolant temp does from Australia then I do sitting 10 feet from it and driving it every day.

 

I don't know if the Z's water temp gauge is less accurate, but on my car if the temp is around 79 80 C its right below the mid tick mark, when it gets to about 84-85 C it hits the tick mark. Works for me.... otherwise the UTEC temp read out is plenty sensitive....

 

I also use the utec to track my water temps, too........I don't recall it going over 82*C.

It wouldn't surprise me if the open upper grille on the G is responsible for better cooling on the G versus the Z. Back in the early 90s, Ford closed off the upper grille portion of the "fox chassis" mustangs, and those cars had cooling issues. And then in some of the SN95 chassis mustangs, Ford had put a honeycombed grill in the upper opening of the bumper, and those cars had some overheating issues......the fix was to remove the honeycomb grille and leave it open....the result was that the oveheating stopped.

 

We are trying Evans NPG+ this weekend, at Barber, so I will report with any changes to coolant temps. If I push it hard enough, I can get the temps to start creeping up after about 5 hot laps. We'll see if the NPG+ waterless coolant helps.

 

Sounds fun, what are the anticipated ambient temps that day?