coolant racing
#21
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
We are trying Evans NPG+ this weekend, at Barber, so I will report with any changes to coolant temps. If I push it hard enough, I can get the temps to start creeping up after about 5 hot laps. We'll see if the NPG+ waterless coolant helps.
#22
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Originally Posted by Phanatic
How did that coolant do?
#23
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Using NPG+ will give the impression that the engine is running hotter than usual when the temps are perfectly acceptable. From what I've read, it reads hotter than before on gauges because it's effective at removing MORE heat from the motor due to how it can sustain the nucleate boiling @ hotspots around the combustion chamber. This is where measuring block temps > coolant temps.
Did you consider the NPG-R coolant?
Did you consider the NPG-R coolant?
#24
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Originally Posted by miamimax96
Using NPG+ will give the impression that the engine is running hotter than usual when the temps are perfectly acceptable. From what I've read, it reads hotter than before on gauges because it's effective at removing MORE heat from the motor due to how it can sustain the nucleate boiling @ hotspots around the combustion chamber. This is where measuring block temps > coolant temps.
Did you consider the NPG-R coolant?
Did you consider the NPG-R coolant?
The great thing about Evan's is the 375F boiling point. With regular coolant, as you approach 220-230F, that coolant starts to foam slightly, and this inhibits heat transfer.
This is our first time using Evan's on the track, so I am sure we'll have more experience with it over the next few months. We have a lot of track events on the schedule that we'll be attending.
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Originally Posted by USN HM 350Z
Should I use the Prep-Fluid before filling up with the NPG+ ?
#29
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Originally Posted by rcdash
Sharif,
What do you refill your customer's turbo'd cars with when installing?
Would you recommend Evans for all turbo cars? We're not upgrading the radiator in mine, so just wondering if this is a good stop gap measure...
Recommendation appreciated - thanks.
What do you refill your customer's turbo'd cars with when installing?
Would you recommend Evans for all turbo cars? We're not upgrading the radiator in mine, so just wondering if this is a good stop gap measure...
Recommendation appreciated - thanks.
#30
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No worries - I'm sure you'll be as glad as I am when I've got my car back - your e-mail load will be cut in half.
Let's try the Evans (NPG+). I see no disadvantage (other than cost)...
Hope you get a few days R&R for July 4th.
Let's try the Evans (NPG+). I see no disadvantage (other than cost)...
Hope you get a few days R&R for July 4th.
Last edited by rcdash; 07-01-2007 at 11:05 AM.
#31
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The problem is one of small coolant VOLUME...............developing methods to increase it a few quarts will work wonders............larger radiator, inline sump tanks.
Really hard to improve radiator efficiency by more than a few %.
Really hard to improve radiator efficiency by more than a few %.
#32
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Volume is one of the factors, yes, and it's a good thought. Using non-aqueous propylene glycol has more to do with the heat transfer properties of the coolant than radiator efficiency per se. Evans coolant will absorb more heat off the engine than regular coolant. While radiator efficiency doesn't really change the increased ability for Evans coolant to absorb and release thermal energy along with the increased temperature differential between the coolant and air (as the Evans fluid will run much hotter) allows for greater heat dissipation utilizing the same (stock) radiator.
EDIT: Found the specs for the specific heat of NPG+ is 0.64 (compared to 1 for water and .81 for a 50/50 coolant mix). As you can see the NPG is going to pull nearly twice the amount of heat from the engine vs. water. And as Sharif mentioned, it will not form a vapor phase until over 370 degrees, even at 0 psi.
EDIT: Found the specs for the specific heat of NPG+ is 0.64 (compared to 1 for water and .81 for a 50/50 coolant mix). As you can see the NPG is going to pull nearly twice the amount of heat from the engine vs. water. And as Sharif mentioned, it will not form a vapor phase until over 370 degrees, even at 0 psi.
Last edited by rcdash; 07-01-2007 at 11:12 AM.
#33
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The #1 advantage of Evans over conventional coolants is how it sustains nucleate boiling (which absorbs a ton of heat). People that think Evans eliminates boiling completely are mistaken. The phase change that occurs when coolant starts to boil at hotspots in the block/heads absorbs a considerable amount of heat. The trick is to keep a vapor layer from forming at the site of localized boiling and keeping the liquid in contact with the metal. Evans does this by immediately condensing back into liquid form.
#34
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Evan's recommends the R only for race cars that are not daily driven, so I havent tried it yet. Have you tried it before?
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Originally Posted by Abishop
What are some good ways to keep your over flow tank from boiling over?
If you are running that tiny APS overflow, get a new one...that thing holds virtually nothing.
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Originally Posted by miamimax96
NPG-R will work just fine in daily driven vehicles. It's just not classified as a "lifetime coolant" yet to due insufficient long-term testing by Evans. They recommend replacement every other year for street/strip cars and every year for cars that see extreme racing duty like road racing. They don't recommend it in super cold climates either. As someone that lives in south florida I could run R year-round. But for people up north, NPG+ is the ticket if you don't feel like switching back and forth. From what I've read on their site, R has better heat transfer properties and is less viscous than NPG+. I haven't personally used it yet, but it will be going into my built all-motor engine when I get around to it.
#38
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Originally Posted by miamimax96
NPG-R will work just fine in daily driven vehicles. It's just not classified as a "lifetime coolant" yet to due insufficient long-term testing by Evans. They recommend replacement every other year for street/strip cars and every year for cars that see extreme racing duty like road racing. They don't recommend it in super cold climates either. As someone that lives in south florida I could run R year-round. But for people up north, NPG+ is the ticket if you don't feel like switching back and forth. From what I've read on their site, R has better heat transfer properties and is less viscous than NPG+. I haven't personally used it yet, but it will be going into my built all-motor engine when I get around to it.
I know a couple people that run NPG-R in high hp cars(Ford Lightning, couple supras, rx7, '79 280z) that are almost driven daily and they tend to flush it every other year just to be safe. Being in Houston we dont have to worry about freezing that much.
Last edited by meatbag; 07-01-2007 at 03:53 PM.
#40
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Originally Posted by rcdash
I couldn't find this NPG-R on their website, but this page has lots of good info on NPG and NPG+: http://www.evanscooling.com/html/tech1.htm
Click on the "NPG-R" hyperlink for a more detailed description when you get to that last page.