New Tune On Vortech
Originally Posted by ZU L8R
I agree it's a little better than the EM Blue just becuase it controls timing. It's effective when it works. A local domestic shop did 6 vortech installs on Z/G's. 5 out of the 6 SS box's had to be sent back. For people that don't plan to upgrade and plan to stay within the base parameters it should work fine.
Originally Posted by zzerotwosixty
I probably won't. People have been boosting cars since the 1890s. Most of that time with carbs and no electronic controls at all except a distributor. Y'all are just tooo nervous. Take a chill pill.
in prior days before EFI .. when your altenator started going.. you wouldn't have to worry about the car shutting down.. everything in these cars these days are so computerized its not even funny. In 1998 Honda started putting Multiplex Units in their Accords.. these systems tied in the factory radio, the windows, all electronic parts... and if you blew something on the radio.. it would blow everything else too. The perfected it so much with the 6 Gen Accord.. the owners can't remove their radios... if you remove the radio.. the rest of the car is fcked
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Joined: Sep 2005
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booger, in g35driver Stock motor with forced induction . . . how badly did you push it? thread, I see that some people are running FI on 7-9 psi. Now, if OEM MAF is maxing out at ~9 psi, do you see a problem running Vortech at 8 psi of stock MAF? Thanks
Originally Posted by doug
are you listening to yourself? you are comparing a carb / no electronics car with a modern day car..
in prior days before EFI .. when your altenator started going.. you wouldn't have to worry about the car shutting down.. everything in these cars these days are so computerized its not even funny. In 1998 Honda started putting Multiplex Units in their Accords.. these systems tied in the factory radio, the windows, all electronic parts... and if you blew something on the radio.. it would blow everything else too. The perfected it so much with the 6 Gen Accord.. the owners can't remove their radios... if you remove the radio.. the rest of the car is fcked
in prior days before EFI .. when your altenator started going.. you wouldn't have to worry about the car shutting down.. everything in these cars these days are so computerized its not even funny. In 1998 Honda started putting Multiplex Units in their Accords.. these systems tied in the factory radio, the windows, all electronic parts... and if you blew something on the radio.. it would blow everything else too. The perfected it so much with the 6 Gen Accord.. the owners can't remove their radios... if you remove the radio.. the rest of the car is fcked
Originally Posted by zzerotwosixty
Couldn't find any chill pills, huh? Try a joint and a beer.
Originally Posted by Lady Jax
Speed Density is a tuning paradigm based on a MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) sensor and the other engine sensors combined input to arrive at predicted input of air to mix with the fuel to give you an optimized Volumetric Efficiency and Air-Fuel Ratio. The stock ECU derives similar information based on the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor and is perfectly adequate for airflow at ambient pressures and vacuum pressures but is inaccurate under boost due to a lack sensing range (the sensor 'tops out'). To predict airflow under boost the stock ECU is set with 'best-guess' numbers for the boost phase of power. With the predictability of supercharger performance this is usually adequate but could be insufficient in environments that are less than ideal. Excessive load, heat, lack of humidity, decreased coolant efficiency, knock sensor malfunction, etc. You have very little 'margin for error' with the stock ECU and predicated numbers. The more info, the safer the set-up. Redundancy in systems monitoring is essential to longevity in your engine.
'Nuff said?
'Nuff said?
Originally Posted by Lady Jax
The UTEC system (and others) has an input for a MAP and uses this data (rather than guessing) to operate off a 'map' to adjust spark timing and fuel flow (pulse width-modulation) to give optimal Volumetric Efficiency (i.e. POWER) for any given circumstance of load, temp, throttle position, rpm, etc. These piggy-back, or 'interceptor' systems let the stock ECU govern engine management under conditions of ambient pressure or less but give an altered response during boost and give an optimal mix of power, driveability and safety when properly tuned.
Hope that helps, it is just MHO
Hope that helps, it is just MHO
Good information, Thanks!
Originally Posted by zzerotwosixty
That explains alot. If you're not living on the edge you're taking up too much space.
i live on the edge.. i just find other avenue's to do so.. my Z .. my motorcycle.. my dj'ing... my visits to the gun range.. my son... trust me.. i am enjoying life.. and i don't need drugs or alcohol to have a good time.
Hey booger,
Do you still have your s trim blower around? Can you tell me if drain fitting is 3/8 NPT or not? I'm getting rid of the rubber hose and putting AN fittings w/steel braided hose. Thanks.
Do you still have your s trim blower around? Can you tell me if drain fitting is 3/8 NPT or not? I'm getting rid of the rubber hose and putting AN fittings w/steel braided hose. Thanks.
Originally Posted by doug
i live on the edge.. i just find other avenue's to do so.. my Z .. my motorcycle.. my dj'ing... my visits to the gun range.. my son... trust me.. i am enjoying life.. and i don't need drugs or alcohol to have a good time.
Originally Posted by doug
i live on the edge.. i just find other avenue's to do so.. my Z .. my motorcycle.. my dj'ing... my visits to the gun range.. my son... trust me.. i am enjoying life.. and i don't need drugs or alcohol to have a good time.
Originally Posted by zzerotwosixty
Then why are you so negative?
i am straight to the point and i don't sugar coat **** and i tell it like it is.. but in no way am i negative.. people assume because you disagree with them you are negative
Originally Posted by zzerotwosixty
Hey booger,
Do you still have your s trim blower around? Can you tell me if drain fitting is 3/8 NPT or not? I'm getting rid of the rubber hose and putting AN fittings w/steel braided hose. Thanks.
Do you still have your s trim blower around? Can you tell me if drain fitting is 3/8 NPT or not? I'm getting rid of the rubber hose and putting AN fittings w/steel braided hose. Thanks.
Originally Posted by dovla
booger, in g35driver Stock motor with forced induction . . . how badly did you push it? thread, I see that some people are running FI on 7-9 psi. Now, if OEM MAF is maxing out at ~9 psi, do you see a problem running Vortech at 8 psi of stock MAF? Thanks
Originally Posted by booger
Im not sure what your asking . But the T-trim blower is boxed up ready to be shipped
Originally Posted by dovla
booger, in g35driver Stock motor with forced induction . . . how badly did you push it? thread, I see that some people are running FI on 7-9 psi. Now, if OEM MAF is maxing out at ~9 psi, do you see a problem running Vortech at 8 psi of stock MAF? Thanks
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: NJ
Based on their products and posts on this site, I trust UpRev and their flush so, IMO, jumping on multiple maps is not an issue.
What I dont know much is about (scaling) OEM MAF - but then I doubt that Jared would do MAF tuning unless he think its safe. He posted here that MAF maxes out at 9 psi; I don’t know if this is already scaled or not.
Based on this post it sounds like UpRev is working on something to do with MAF. Perhaps switching over a MAF to a MAP sensor like these guys?
What I dont know much is about (scaling) OEM MAF - but then I doubt that Jared would do MAF tuning unless he think its safe. He posted here that MAF maxes out at 9 psi; I don’t know if this is already scaled or not.
Based on this post it sounds like UpRev is working on something to do with MAF. Perhaps switching over a MAF to a MAP sensor like these guys?