best place to put an EGT probe on a Greddy TT car?
#1
best place to put an EGT probe on a Greddy TT car?
I am going to put an EGT meter (or 2) in my car, but I'm not sure where the best place to put the probe would be.
I assume that the closest I could get it to the exhaust ports, the better it would be, but I don't know if drilling and tapping the cast manifolds is a good idea. I could see that drilling and tapping the manifold for a 1/8" npt fitting could cause a crack to propogate from the hole.
so, my next thoughts are to put the probe either in the downpipe or into the wastegate relocation pipes.
I want to get the probe in the hottest spot. any suggestions??
I assume that the closest I could get it to the exhaust ports, the better it would be, but I don't know if drilling and tapping the cast manifolds is a good idea. I could see that drilling and tapping the manifold for a 1/8" npt fitting could cause a crack to propogate from the hole.
so, my next thoughts are to put the probe either in the downpipe or into the wastegate relocation pipes.
I want to get the probe in the hottest spot. any suggestions??
#4
Originally Posted by booger
To have any real use for it Ive always read and heard , it needs to be with in 1 inch of the exhaust port . Other wise its useless
I think you are correct in terms of knowing how hot the pistons are getting......
but wouldn't you still be able to see if the EGTs are elevating even if the probe is further downstream? I guess you'd need to learn what the average temp for your probe location is, and then pay attention to see if it elevates at all.
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#8
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Originally Posted by failsafe306
Since the manifolds are already installed, I'd just put them on the downpipes as close to the turbine as you can get. It's not as good as putting them in the manifold but at least you can monitor significant changes in temp.
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Originally Posted by minus500
Yeah I agree. Ideally i've heard that they need to be no more than 6-8 inches away from the head but, since you've got the mani's on you won't want to tap them and have the metal chips go through the blades.
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Putting them in the downpipes would be a waste of time and money. By the time the heat gets there (through the manifold then the turbo) it's too late. You can get access to the RHS leading runner from the top if you move a few things out of the way (p/s resevoir, earth wire etc). Use a 12" 21/64 drill bit (you can buy this online) with the engine running. Drill very slow when you get close to the break through point. For your tap, use a high shear strength grease and dip your tap into it. Use a small metric 12pt socket and extension to run the tap in. I think I used a 9mm...can't remember. Just make sure the tap fits snug into the socket. Also run the engine while you tap your threads. The fragments that don't stick to the grease will fly out this hole. The exhaust will push the fragments to the path of least resistance (in this case the hole you just made). It takes time, but this is the only way you can do it on the engine. There is no access to the LHS manifold and to have the engine running at the same time. Trust me...and you'll save money on one gauge.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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We usually mount them about 1 inch or so from the exhaust port, directly into the manifold. I like to use the rear cylinders, as the engine gets hotter as you head towards the rear.
I used to have mine mounted on the downpipe, and temps barely moved. Mounted on the manifold, they move a lot, and definately provide a much more accurate reading. I usually see about 1350 F at cruise, and 1600F at WOT at the top.
I used to have mine mounted on the downpipe, and temps barely moved. Mounted on the manifold, they move a lot, and definately provide a much more accurate reading. I usually see about 1350 F at cruise, and 1600F at WOT at the top.
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
We usually mount them about 1 inch or so from the exhaust port, directly into the manifold. I like to use the rear cylinders, as the engine gets hotter as you head towards the rear.
I used to have mine mounted on the downpipe, and temps barely moved. Mounted on the manifold, they move a lot, and definately provide a much more accurate reading. I usually see about 1350 F at cruise, and 1600F at WOT at the top.
I used to have mine mounted on the downpipe, and temps barely moved. Mounted on the manifold, they move a lot, and definately provide a much more accurate reading. I usually see about 1350 F at cruise, and 1600F at WOT at the top.
Thanks
#17
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
We usually mount them about 1 inch or so from the exhaust port, directly into the manifold. I like to use the rear cylinders, as the engine gets hotter as you head towards the rear.
I used to have mine mounted on the downpipe, and temps barely moved. Mounted on the manifold, they move a lot, and definately provide a much more accurate reading. I usually see about 1350 F at cruise, and 1600F at WOT at the top.
I used to have mine mounted on the downpipe, and temps barely moved. Mounted on the manifold, they move a lot, and definately provide a much more accurate reading. I usually see about 1350 F at cruise, and 1600F at WOT at the top.
sharif,
did you drill and tap the manifold, or did you weld a bung onto the manifold?
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
We usually mount them about 1 inch or so from the exhaust port, directly into the manifold. I like to use the rear cylinders, as the engine gets hotter as you head towards the rear.
I used to have mine mounted on the downpipe, and temps barely moved. Mounted on the manifold, they move a lot, and definately provide a much more accurate reading. I usually see about 1350 F at cruise, and 1600F at WOT at the top.
I used to have mine mounted on the downpipe, and temps barely moved. Mounted on the manifold, they move a lot, and definately provide a much more accurate reading. I usually see about 1350 F at cruise, and 1600F at WOT at the top.
If it's too much of a pain in the @ss, then screw it. EGT gauges are nice to have and monitor, but aren't "required" IMO. Things like A/F and boost levels take top priority. Afterwards, EGT, Fuel Pressure, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, etc.
As always, just my Talk to your tuner and see how comfortable they are with tuning with/without a manifold EGT on the car.
Good luck.