Well, to add alittle more info on this..

Sc vs Tn

I was looking at a tn kit at the same time i bought the vortech. I had to think what would be more practical for my driving conditions/habits. I chose the vortech due to the car being my daily driver, not making any boost till wot(and rpms of course), linear power( less strain on parts) and the sound. I would have loved the tn kit, but it was not practical for me. For someone else it maybe.

The tn car should beat the sc car without a problem. That is with a competent driver in both cars. I haven't ran into a turbo car around here yet. One should up at a import faceoff, then left shortly after. Never even got to talk to the guy.

I would love to run a 380-400rwhp turbo setup.

 

Actually with a turbo car you could drive around without hitting boost all day long. It's load based so just shift early and don't go WoT and you'll never see boost. With a supercharger, it's RPM based so you can't avoid hitting boost.

 

Im trying to think how far up the rpm range Ive gone and stayed in vacuum . But when load goes up , vacuum goes down and the bypass valve closes . So Im pretty sure you can do the same with a SC...redline with out getting into boost . As long as you stay in vacuum

 

actually till you hit wot and rpms it will not make boost. The bypass valve vents everything till wot( vacuum during wot pulls it closed).

 

actually thats not entirely accurate.. i can hit boost without (1) going WOT and (2) climbing higher than 6000 rpms

i hit boost on 60% throttle easily

 

It all depends on Bypass BOV adjustment . You can adjust it to close sooner

 

touche

 

on my vortech car, I don't hit positive boost numbers until the throttle is pressed down somewhere around 80% or more - from what I remember off hand.
You can "cruise" at 6000+ rpms while not being in boost if you wanted, but you gotta put your foot down for the power

and when I go from say 80-100% throttle, it'll go from 0 PSI to "available" PSI

Unlike a turbo though, when you're not in positive boost, the vortech setup feels noticably stronger and more peppy than NA.
It just won't break the 0 psi mark until the bypass valve really starts to close up when your throttle is pushed down hard

Bear in mind, dynos only show WOT. They don't show what amount of power you make at say 50% throttle
If you could do a 50% throttle dyno, to my knowledge, I don't think a turbo car would have as much power as the vortech car would untill you get the EGT's hot enough to get the turbos to work a little. The vortech is always spinning and sucking in extra air that's right there (like a giant plenum in a way) and it's always available for part throttle use. The excess air that doesn't get sucked into the engine is vented out the bypass valve.

And that extra off-throttle power is noticable. When I first got the vortech installed, even with my car being 100 lbs heavier, it felt more peppy than before when I was NA just driving around in a parking lot looking for a parking spot at very low rpms and low throttle. It's a byproduct of not having lag, because when you drive it at any rpm or any throttle % you have that amount of extra air available that wasn't there when NA






that in essence is the difference between turbo lag, and a vortech:

if you very slowly roll into the throttle from 0-100% on a turbo car, you start out with NA power and stay with NA power for just a bit, then at some point the turbos will start spooling and then like an exponential curve, you quickly afterwords are in full boost. What varies with rpm is the severity of the "lag" AKA time spent being stuck with NA power until the boost starts coming on

with the vortech, as you slowly roll on the gas pedal, you start out with more power than NA and go through a gradation from that up to whatever boost is available at that rpm. What varies with rpm is the amount of boost available once you're at 100% throttle





But it is completely possible to drive around all day and not ever be in boost with the vortech and I've done that a lot on certain days. You can usually hear the bypass valve go off hard if you build up any amount of positive boost and shift or let off the throttle. Otherwise the bypass valve is always letting the excess air out at all times until it closes under positive pressure

I think the relationship between throttle position and boost is actually very similar to a turbo with having to press the throttle down pretty hard and getting positive boost, except it's not a direct linear relationship with how much boost is made at various rpms and throttle positions

...but you certainly don't drive around with positive boost pressure happening all day long. Only when you give it on it

 

No harm intended .

It can be adjusted like I said . Mine is adjusted to close around 1/2 throttle [ maybe less ] . 8 or 9 threads showing [ stock setting ] it will close at around 80 % throttle . Most guys have 6 or 7 threads and closes sooner . Cams will result in lower vacuum and effect when it closes also .