Ok, tried search with no avail. I have an 04 Base 350z M/T. It is my daily driver and my only driver. I want to go FI but would like to keep it conservative! I'm looking for 325ish at the wheels with low boost and maybe 400ish with higher boost for track and some street fun every once in a while. I have been reading and looking through the FI section for a while and never really gt a straight answer so here are my questions.
What kit would you suggest?
What other upgrades are needed/suggested?
I'd love to have a full shopping list of parts that I need. Money is a factor, but I don't mind paying for good parts. I need reliability but don't need a block that'll support 800hp. I appreciate anyones input and if you need more info on my plans/goals, just ask!

 

sounds like you want a turbo if you want to switch from high to low boost, so that narrows things down for you

 

Build the motor. Also get a quality TT kit like JWT or APS. Also tune with UTEC and map switch for different boost levels.

 

325-400 is doable on the stock block. The APS kit is very nice and complete. Get a good tune on the car and enjoy the ride.

 

Sounds like you want a turbo like sentry said but since money is a factor I would probably get a single turbo and a couple of supporting mods. Since its your daily driver I would highly recomend you get a shop that KNOWS what their doing to tune the car.

 

Get the GTM Stroker Kit and boost it, dont bother with the TT kit for 325hp save you some money too. and then if you want fi later youll be set up already.

 

How does he turn that up when he wants 400whp for some street fun like he said?

 

I have the Jim wolf tt on my car and its my daily driver. I love the kit i think its one of the best and most complete.I have been driving it for the past 2 months with not one problem.My HP should be around 380-390 seeing that i have a stock exhaust but should do over 400 at the wheels after. As soon as Vinny Ten gets his dyno done i can give you the right HP.

 

i have a turbonetics ST kit on my car ATM and i use my Z as a daily driver. it drives like stock until around 3200 RPMs. so when u wanna race, just take ur car past 3k, but for nice daily cruising and gas saving, stay below 3k imo

 

I would go with a turbonetics single with open dump wastegate, and a UTEC. I have this setup on my car that is a dialy driver and I love it. I made 392 whp 355 tq. I drive prolly 200 miles a week too. Just my .2

 

Go with the JWT kit its a nice safe kit Good for daily driver turbo car. Not the fastest of the bunch but sure as hell fun to drive. If I could do it all over again I would have built the motor first though then not gone with jwt but aps or greddy and put down 450 low and 500 high. But thats just me.

 

My Z isn't my daily driver but I have the TN kit on it and it is fantastic for daily driving. It is entiely up to you whether you want to stay in boost or not and you could be at 5,000 rpm but as long as there is no significant load on the engine, your car will not be boosting (i.e. 1st gear going down a resdential street at 20 mph).

Since you don't want incredibly high numbers, I suggest going with an ST. Even if you do wanna go ***** out, STs are very very fast and are cpaable of not only running with but defeating TTs.

I think it narrows your options down to two well-known and well-used kits: The APS and TN STs.

Whichever one is cheaper is the one I advise going for.

 

the greddy is more of a tuner kit in the sense that you really do need to add your own engine management and ideally an upgraded fuel delivery system, and BOV. the APS on the other hand comes with all of the above, so it is a more complete system. additionally, it makes use of ball bearing, water-cooled turbos, which reduces lag and heat respectively. the APS is a more expensive kit, but when you consider the stuff you have to add to the greddy kit, i think the cost is more comparable. i also hear that customer support from greddy is not always the best.

another option is the JWT kit. i dont know to much about that besides that is the closest thing to a "factory" kit that is availible and that it probably wont produce the big numbers of an APS kit.

 

With the goals that you have in mind, I wouldn't rule out a Vortech SC. If you set it up right, you can get 400whp and still have the driveability of a stock car. I have the Vortech on my car and get 384.1whp. Some HFC's and a couple of other little things and I will easily be at 400whp. The power is on tap too. You can't change boost settings like on a turbo but if you drive normal and don't go into boost, the car drives almost like stock. In other words the driveability is awesome. It's very smooth. And when you are at the track and want to open it up, you will have the power on tap. Just floor it. My car is also a DD and I have had zero issues. It's a very safe and reliable setup. JMHO.

 

Oh i forgot to put that i drive 100miles a day just for work on my JWTT kit.

 

Three hundred and eighty four POINT ONE??

Point ONE? You're counting tenths of a horsepower? What's that, a horses's forelock? A nose?

Sorry man -- I couldn't resist!

 

you can have two timing/fuel maps with a vortech or any other supercharger though (if the EMS supports two maps), but can't change boost on the fly. Even still, the difference between two maps on a supercharged setup would be like 30-40whp going from completely conservative to extreme timing/fuel depending on if you run race gas or not for the extreme map

 

Customer support ?.................................just wait to you need customer support from aps,then youll see why more people choose the greddy kit.

 

Hey, that's what my dyno sheet says. Every little bit counts!

 

Good suggestions on kits, however I think people skipped over the fact that this is your only vehicle. Not sure how cool you are about taking public transportation but you should always be prepared to meet engine gremlins when going FI. With good support, a very reliable kit and a builder/tuner that knows what they are doing you are still gonna look at, at least, a weeks down time. Then like I said before, there are always those instances when you may run into a problem, and the Z being you're only vehicle would make things that much worse.