Might take it to the drag strip once or twice, but no track time or autocross or anything. Just mainly a DD on nice days, and taking it to shows.

If you guys are fine, then I'll go without one for now.

 

are you planning on coating your exhaust piping or anything?

 

I haven't really decided what to do yet. I'm going to be tossing my rusty stock exhaust back up there. The y-pipe still has all of the heat shields and everything, so hopefully that will suffice? And I'm definitely not going to spend money to get that stuff coated.

What's the main intent of jet-hot coating the exhaust, or using header wrap - to keep the heat in to spool up faster, or to keep the temps down on the center charge pipe? If it's spool up, that's not a big deal right away. But I definitely would like to keep IAT's down.

And would wrapping the charge pipes help keep heat from the exhaust out, or trap heat from the turbo in until the air hits the intercooler?

Someone told me that HKS makes a mid-pipe that is a direct replacement for the stock exhaust? The person mostly spews BS, so I'm not sure that's true or not.

 

The MAIN intent is to keep the heat inside the exhaust for faster spool-up, but it has a great effect keeping the IATs down as well, especially since the charge pipes run close to the exhaust pipes. The majority of my pipes of coated and wrapped.

 

I had a custom midpipe made (no resonator like the stock) but it sounded ricer raspy....so stock is back on...i think with the rear mount you dont have to worry too much... I had my stainless midpipe made for about 200 bucks....its connected to that muffler..its a one piece set up.

 

Did your straight midpipe help your spool-up times by any significant margin?

 

not running STS....Vortech...just giving my input on my mid pipe experiences. With the rear mount system the sound is not a factor. I primarily offered my tid bit for you to compare cost of making your own mid pipe.

 

you deffinitely don't want to wrap the charge pipe.

 

Alright guys, kit should be shipping soon I hope. It's been almost 3 weeks now, so if it doesn't ship soon, I'm going to be pissed.

I have a bunch of questions, but here are two for now...

1. Where does the driver's side PCV hose hook up? Doesn't say in the instructions. I'm trying to figure out the PCV system, and I'm not liking it so far. I'll explain later.

2. Anyone notice any oil consumption issues? Anyone have to rebuild their turbo yet?

 

Instructions suck, I offered to re-write them for them free of charge.

I think that connects through the solenoid valve to the charge air pipe leading to the intake plenum. I could be wrong.

 

Well, looking at the install instructions, it looks like the PCV system sucks. Seems like you will actually pressurize the crankcase up to 1psi, then the solenoid kicks in to block the boost. I've been waiting until I get the kit to figure out how the whole thing works.

 

What's up, guys? I have an STS kit on the way for my '05 G35 Sedan 6MT. I'm buying the kit used, and the guy was running a Greddy E-Manage instead of the Utec. I've already bought and installed the Utec, though.

So, my questions is; does anyone know where I can get a copy of the base maps and parameters that STS puts on the Utec? I'm only going to be running these maps between my house and my tuner's shop. I just don't want to break anything on the way.

Its the stock 350Z kit w/ 440cc injectors, modified to fit a G35 Sedan.

Thanks,
Jerome

 

Your tuner should be able to supply you with a base map to get you over to him unless they don't tune utecs very often.

 

I also would like to get those base maps. I should have figured STS wouldn't give them up - they charge $300! It seems like no one here has the files anymore, or isn't willing to give them up. But I still have some hope...so let me know if you find them!

Otherwise, I can just spend the time and build a map off of the TN base map.

 

Sorry. I wish I could provide the base maps for you, but I don't have them either.

 

My kit is on the way, but I have a question about the oil return system. Where does this kit return the oil back into the block? Would I be better off running an aftermarket oil pan or spacer and returning the oil through there?

Thanks,
Jerome

 

On the top of your motor just under the front of the plenum there's a crossover tube for the PCV system. The oil return line will go into one of those ports, and their special PCV solenoid will hook up to the other.

I would not run the return into an oil pan spacer since the oil level sits above the spacer. Might work, but I know the STS guys would advise against it.

For me, I already have the upper pan tapped from having my Vortech kit. I'm just going to run the line up to there, and most likely do something different about their PCV system setup. However, their wiring is quite confusing and seems dependent on the PCV solenoid.

 

I know I created another thread for questions, but I might as well just ask them in here. Sometime us STS guys will have to make a FAQ thread like the Vortech one.

How many of you guys have high-flow cats? Looking at the install directions, I noticed that they are using test pipes. My Berk HFC's have the catalyst part of the cat up close towards the exhaust manifold. If the charge pipe fits around it, it's going to be VERY tight. That charge pipe is going to be freakin' hot. Should I adhere some of that reflective heat wrap on the side of a charge pipe that's facing the cat? I don't think I'll be able to wrap the HFC due to its shape, and I won't get getting them jet-hotted until next spring.

 

I've had OEM CATs, Fast Intentions HFCs, Generic Test Pipes, and now Kinetix Resonated Test Pipes. Everything fits on my car without rubbing the charge pipe. I even have an AT, so I'm tighter on space down there than you MT guys.

 

Great, thanks Lewis.



Alright, so the PCV system. Now that half of my kit is here, along with an updated install manual, I'm trying to plan my attack on this. Since I'm going to be routing the oil return line through a fitting in the upper oil pan (Vortech style), I wanted to try avoiding using their PCV solenoid and what not.

I threw together this awesome diagram using paint, utilizing my awesome laptop touchpad skillz...

Stock vs. STS


A few points on the STS design:

1.) It seems pointless to have the breather tube running to the air intake tube if you have a breather filter on the driver's side rear port.
2.) As you ramp into boost, the crankcase will actually get pressurized to 1 psi before switch is triggered and the solenoid will close, blocking airflow into the crankcase and allowing you to boost.

It seems to me we'd be fine (and better off) if we ditched the whole STS solenoid thing and just stuck with having the filter on the driver's side breather port (better idea would be to run a hose back to the intake instead of just a breather filter). HOWEVER, the 1 psi switch is NEEDED for the oil pump (kicks it into high gear when you are in boost), and it also seems as though you need the solenoid as well due to the electrical setup. Ughh...

I tried to figure out how the whole wiring harness and electrical system works, and I can't figure it out. Maybe more on that later.

I'm sure I'm reading into this stuff more than anyone else has (other than Julian or CIN), but maybe you guys can brainstorm with me?