athenG

iTrader: (2)

/\ +1 wait till you get under the hood of a TN kit after a few run... You can cook an egg on that hood..lol Both Goosegoose and me are running water/meth for extra safety... Water/Meth will not bring down the under hood temp coz all it does is cool down the air intake temp.

By the way the sound will get better as the turbo get broken in and as the temp get hotter..

harvin350z

Thanks guys....I dynoed only 330 and the blow off valve flutters to much...I am gona try to get a new spring. Also my car lanches so slow of the line...any ideas? Stock felt so much faster and the boost does not feel constant. When I get up to 3600 rpm then I feel the power but 1st and 2nd gear are not impressive at all... My friend drove it and said it felt like theres turbo lag..? Any ideas?

harvin350z

oh..my last concern was the car has lots of rasp in it which gets anoying..Iam running all stock pipes for now, what is the best combination of different pipes to get the best sound?? Thanks

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

What wastegate spring? Who tuned it?

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

That's odd. You don't have test pipes? Even having HFC's with all stock piping, the exhaust note is so damn smooth. It's (loud) music to my ears.

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

I'm curious as well. I get wastegate flutter with the stock spring (.4 bar i believe?) and the boost control solenoid going. But without any MBC/EBC/BCS there is no flutter. I'm hoping the .5 bar i have sitting around will fix it.

DanielW

iTrader: (27)

just get an ebc with gear dependent boost control like the apexi avcr. this kit wont hit anything close to full boost in first and second gear without one. That will also help you spool slightly quicker off the line. I had good luck decreasing my lag with invidia 2.25" test pipes. I ran HFC's 2.5" tp's and the invidias and they were the best along with the stock y pipe imo for reducing lag. Others have used heat wrap and/or jet hot coating on exhaust components with some success

harvin350z

Is the fluter from the wastgate or blow off valve?? Iam using everything stock that came with the sts kit. I did not get the tial wastegate and bov... they gave me a "sts" version which in my opinion looks like a exact copy of the tial stuff. I already have a AEM tru boost gauge, I hope it fixes the lag in the first 2 gears when I install it. Daniel I already saw your youtube video, do you have anymore with the nvidia testpipes? On monday I am gona get the ebc installed so I will post te results....THanks

Boozt

I'm running a MBC with 8 psi...HFC's, XYZ pipe with some custom piping at the turbo........1st and 2nd gear are violent in my car. Something doesn't sound right.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

First congratulation!! You made good power at only 5psi coz I only did 305whp on my 5psi but that was on conservative tune though..

Do you have stock CAT? first let me give you some pointers to give you a better driving experience.

First, you cant just let the car sit for over an hour and start racing expecting you will hit your target boost. With Rear-Mount, you need to let the turbo warm up before it can spool right. With stock cat it is harder coz now you also have to wait for the CAT to get warmer/Hotter too. You need to drive about 5 blocks or launch the car a couple of times before the turbo warm up. Throttle response and spool is definitely better with TestPipes VS CAT. I have TP and all I do is rev my car to about 3000rpm for about a minute and that usually warm up my turbo. Rick@STS told me to do so and that is what I have been doing at the track and it works. The only mod I have is TP on the exhaust side and I dont even have them Heat Wrapped yet.

Now let us talk about the boost issue on 1st gear. First gear goes so fast that there is not enough time to spool the turbo especially for bigger turbo and rear-mount. Second, this maybe a good thing coz it will give you traction, heck even NA have a hard spinning when they launch their car. If I just nail my gas pedal without launching, I do hit about 5-6psi on 1st gear and if I launch the car I do get about 6-7psi on 1st. A good EBC with speed/gear dependent boost control will solve this problem. DanielW had the AVCR and he was using the gear/speed boost control and he hit full boost on any gear he want. Make sure you shift at least past 6000rpm in 1st gear because there is not a lot of load on that gear else you will only hit 4psi coz the boost dont build until past 3600rpm. 1st gear is the weakest but how much time do you spend down there? Trust me 1st gear goes so fast that not a lot of car will smoke you on 1st unless they got a good jump but that is driving error then. heck I go through 1st gear in less than 2 seconds, how far can someone smoke me in 2 seconds unless I'm standing still. If you are worried then just get a good EBC like the EVC6 or AVCR which both has speed/gear dependent boost control.. That will fix your 1st gear boost issue.


Does the flap sounded like tsk tsk tsk tsk tsk tsk???


Does it sound like this (This was on my 5psi map and you can hear the wastegate not the turbo)




If so then I believe your WS is the one flapping which is normal especially for low boost.

Boozt

+1 on letting the system warm up and build some pressure.....once you're under boost (esp on a track) lag is never an issue as your always in the throttle. I track the crap out of my car and I can clean up most everything out there.

harvin350z

THANKS ATHENG for taking the time to give some useful pointers. Unfortunatly I already bought the AEM tru boost gauge and is mounted in the car (not wired fully) and can not be returned. If it does not work good then I will buy a EBC you recomended. I will buy test pipes soon. (which brand or any links?) The car really moves after 2nd gear no doubt about it. But compared to stock, my 1st and 2nd were way more responsive in my 2006 350z (rev up). Iam gona wait till monday after I get the AEM tru boost installed. I will be able to monitor and adjust the boost....right now iam just assuming my boost according to the dyno done the other day.

I understand what you mean when you say the turbo takes longer to heat up because of the stock cat. Warming it up a bit first does help. Thanks!

AthenG did you tune your utec or are you still running it with the preloaded maps? I have the utec map switch and ususally run map 2 or 3. But truly I do not see much difference between map 2-3-4. Also the car runs very rich. When I step on it the wideband reads 10-12.5 ... Is this proper or should I get the maps retuned rather then the stock setup from sts (still want to remain on the safe side since I like still have fun with the car daily)

Any 1/4 mile times anyone?

I will post some videos after the weekend once the car is running 100% with the stock setup for future owners. Then a video after I change to TP's.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

MRC did the intial tune on my car but I have added parts since then so I did the rest of the tuning. What is your A/F full boost? there is a huge difference between 10.9:1 11.5:1 Air Fuel Ratio. The stock tune from STS is rich and conservative. Anything richer than 11.1 is very rich in my book. Send my a copy of your MAP and I'll let you know if there is room for improvement. Also check if your map 2,3,4 are all the same coz if it is then you wont really see any difference.. lol. Most tuner populate all the map just in case you accidentally switch them. The last thing you want is switch to a map that is not tuned..

Try to log your run and post them here... Running on WS will also give you a slower response because the wastegate usually start opening early so a boost controller does help.

harvin350z

Sounds good AthenG...Ill post it Monday cuz the shop has all my software cd and cables. Ill let you know the a/f at full boost on monday. Thanks

skn5002

iTrader: (2)

How hot do you think the exhaust temps get? I am looking to order some exhaust wrapping and am trying to decide between the 1000F continuous and the 2000F continuous rated exhaust wraps. Which one should I go with?

harvin350z

OMG!! the car is drinking ULTRA 94 octane....for every 120 miles (200km) I use 11 gallons (40 litres). Was anyone else running this rich with the sts stock maps? My air fuel reads 10.2 at around 4-5 psi. Its really time to get it tuned fast! lol

Currently with the car so rich I still do not have any black smoke coming out the back when I step on it. If I change to TP's will the car start spitting out black smoke?

athenG

iTrader: (2)

10.2 is way way way rich.. trust me you will feel the difference once you set that low to mid 11's.

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...-to-guess.html

There is some discussion of insulation here.

harvin350z

As you know the plan was to go to the shop this past monday and install the boost controller. On Sunday the car starts smoking blue when it gets hot after driving for 30 mins. I open the door and look under and the smoke is coming from the down pipe on the stock exhaust. That did not make sense...to cut the story short I was dripping oil from somewhere onto the pipe and it was burning cuzing it to smoke. I take it to the shop the next morning and the oil seemed to be leaking from the STS oil pump. 3 OUT OF THE 4 BOLTS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PUMP FELL OFF! IF THE LAST BOLT FELL ALL THE OIL OUT OF THE ENGINE WOULD HAVE LEAKED OUT! I WAS SO LUCKYYYY. Heres a pic as soon as we removed the cover under the car:



Got some new bolts with lock tight and problem was fixed. (I guess I was just unlcky for that to happen to me)

The boost contoller was fully installed and it was set around 7 psi and man the car began to flew in 2nd and 3rd gear. Highway was also impressive.

At the end of the day I ran into 2 new problems. First the car idled more rough & oil presure gauge was low and bouncing around.... second the service engine soon came on for the first time as I was pulling in to my garage. Heres a video, let me know if the oil pressure and rmp is normal, Ill check the EC later today.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4p35urUsTLk

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

...check the oil level. Stop boosting. Check oil pressure sensor.