So I bought the Vortech kit used from someone with a g35 auto sedan...

My Car:

03 350Z 6spd
Crawford Cast Plenum
Nismo Cat-back
Technosquare Reflash
Pulley (will be for sale soon due to supercharger)
Pop Charger (for sale soon as well)
Grounding kit

It did come with a piggyback for a 04 350z, and the split second timing box, but it’s custom tuned for a g35 sedan, so how would you flash it back to Vortech OEM?

This is a way to avoid the previous issue:

I have a Technosquare reflashed ECU, I talked to Technosquare and they said they can flash it back to stock, but maintain the extended redline and speed limiter removal and I can use the piggyback system that came with the Vortech (They will charge $150 for this)... But for the same price they recommended that I discard the piggyback and have them reflash my ECU for use with a supercharger and other bolt-ons by programming my maps and etc...

Which should I choose? The technosquare full ECU remapping would be cheapest since I would pay $150 total and wouldn't have to pay them $150 to revert my ECU, and then have to pay another shop to tune the piggyback...

If I go with the Technosquare reflash, do I just not run a vacuum from the intake manifold to the ECU (because the vacuum is on the piggyback unit.) (The intake manifold vacuum line runs from the intake manifold, to the fmu, to the bypass valve, to the piggyback)

Would it be safe to drive the Z 40 miles up north to Technosquare with a supercharger on with no tune as long as I drove conservatively? Should I disconnect the supercharger belt? What about the Vortech fuel pump?

Also, where should the power to the fuel pump come from if I don't use the piggyback? I'm guessing 12volt acc switched, does anyone know if I can tap this from the ECU?

Tapping the oil pan looks scary but feasible, Vortech originally supplied a tool to assist in this that I don't have, is it possible to tap without the tool?

I'm not sure if the fmu that I have is the 8:1.24 (350z) or 7:1 (w/6:1) (g35) How would I be able to tell? Does this make a difference?

The filter I have is for the g35 which is 1.5 inches shorter, does this matter? Should I purchase the filter for the 350z?

These questions have already been submitted to Technosquare/Vortech, but any input or advice is much appreciated.

Feel free to leave more tips that may make the job easier.

Thanks!

 

My advice would be not to have TS do anything to your ECU and just tune the SS box . As of now , your ECU is tuned for N/A mods which wouldnt hurt a thing . If you ever added more boost passed 7 or 8psi . TC 's flash isnt going to work .

Have the kit installed , adjusted ,and tweaked by a good shop to fit your car and then have the SS box tuned by a good tuner .

 

I'd have the ECU tuned to the ballpark of where you want to be using their vortech flash, then do your real tuning with the SS box

it'd be perfectly safe to drive 40 miles without a tune as long as you stay out of boost and don't get on the throttle hard

I'd just leave the SC belt on.

 

Thats a good option also . But your going to pay twice to get the car tuned , when paying once will and can result in the same tune .

 

just depends on how much smoothness and refinement you want out of the setup like if you're using larger injectors, the ECU flash that's tuned for them from the start will start and idle the car smoother than the SS box scaling them.

We've all seen the fuel curves for the SS box with it making adjustments every 500 rpms - sometimes pretty severe adjustments and it looks a little hilly. The stock ECU has a lot more points of adjustment so your fuel curve won't be as wavey if the ECU is already making more adjustments that are tuned closer to where you want to be. The SS box then just has to fine tune the tune and you end up with a smoother running car

but yeah, on a stock kit, it's not as worth it unless you're already upgrading injectors

 

The SS box cant scale injectors . And if you knew just a little about it you would know that . The ECU cant sense boost , only air flow . So the tune you refer to will only be safe to a certain point . I believe you are only suggesting the TS ECU flash so you can try to stir the pot between us again . Have a nice day !

 

no I'm just saying that that's how I did my car - TS flash (later AAM flash after TS mixed up ECU's and sent me the wrong one) along with a piggyback to fine tune the initial ECU tune.

And I can speak of first hand knowledge that my car did start and run smoother when the ECU was flashed for my larger injectors vs my emanage ultimate trying to scale for them. If I didn't notice a single difference, I wouldn't be here recomending it as a possible option

since when can the SS box not work with larger injectors? There's been tons of people running 440 injectors with the SS box and even you among others run 550's. Or are you wanting to argue over the definition of "scaling" ?

 

So you're saying that it would be safer to have two tunes done and utilize the ss box because it's safer due to the ability to sense boost?

Let me ask this:

Is it safe to run the technosquare n/a tune when you connect the ss box? Technosquare said that it's not safe because they have to retard the timing back to stock... This seems to make sense...?

So basically my safest bet is to have technosquare turn my ecu back to stock (minus the rev limit increase and speed limiter) and then have the ss box tuned to my car?

The other thing I'm paranoid about is that the vortech ecu came from a g35... Meaning that it could potentially have a preloaded tune that's not safe for the 350z... It's confusing though because the adhesive label on the vortech ecu has the 350z part number and says "2004 350z." Is there any way to load the vortech factory tune onto the box from a computer?

 

Maybe you can adjust enough for 440's . But when trying to scale the 550's [ which my ECU is flashed for 550's only NOT THE TUNE ] we never could get it to idle smoothly . My flash for the 550's only and tuned with the SS box , has a very smooth A/F . You are not limited to tune by rpm's only . You can tune by psi . Which is every .5 psi .

If the OP wanted to go to larger injectors . I would have suggested flashing the ECU for the injectors only and do the tune with the SS box. Your taking this way off topic . The OP wanted advice on a flash for a stock kit.

 

I dont know how much TS advanced he timing . If you live that close to TS . Sentry's advice might be best . And if they will tune the car on thier dyno for the same price as flashing it on the bench . It's a good idea , but leave the SS box in place .

I think you would be better off finding a good shop and do what they suggest . We dont know your car , and some of our advice may not right for your needs . We are just suggesting what each one of us would do if it was our car . Its your car , find a good shop !!!!!!!!!!

 

ive got the install kit you need for the oil return line. It includes the 3/8" npt tap, the hole cutter and 1 bottle of the permatex grey sealant for the oil pan. 25 shipped.

I did the install myself and it wasnt too hard. I did the tuner kit tho so i didnt not have to deal with the fmu/aux pump/ss box.

Just take your time and follow the directions and make sure everything fits. The piping can be a pita, sometimes it helps to have a buddy around. Also, for the pipe that goes from the blower to the bov pipe, lay it in front of the engine in an approximate position before you install the bracket, it makes things alot easier. Id also stick the reducer coupler on it first as well.


What year is your z?

 

I think he said it was a 03 Z and the kit came off a 04 G35 Sedan . I would make sure it wasnt a 04.5 as they changed something in the ECU fro 04.5 and above . Call Vortech and ask what size spring [ 8 to 1 or 6 to 1 ] is in the 04 G sedan FMU

 

Well technosquare won't tune third party, such as the piggyback... I guess I'm just gonna have to bite the bullet and pay for two tunes... Bah!

Anyone know of any good places to do a tune for a good price in Orange County?

 

My car idles fine with 650 injectors and walbro (UTEC). Make sure you drill the yellow nozzle and FPR to lower your base fuel pressure.