FP Cooling Mod Review
10-24-2007, 07:29 PM
#21
Originally Posted by WA2GOOD
[/b]
When I ran the theory of it by the guys at JWT and Mark they looked into the possibilities of it actually working from an engineering point of view and just simply told me no
.
When I ran the theory of it by the guys at JWT and Mark they looked into the possibilities of it actually working from an engineering point of view and just simply told me no
.
What engineering principles did they discuss with you? Improving coolant circulation is a good thing, and the reason that Nissan uses this system on their tow versions of the VQ35.
10-24-2007, 07:44 PM
#22
Banned
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
So, the engineers at Nissan got it all wrong.
What engineering principles did they discuss with you? Improving coolant circulation is a good thing, and the reason that Nissan uses this system on their tow versions of the VQ35.
What engineering principles did they discuss with you? Improving coolant circulation is a good thing, and the reason that Nissan uses this system on their tow versions of the VQ35.
End of discussion. JEEZ, you are too much.
BTW, see you at SEMA, buddy
Last edited by WA2GOOD; 10-24-2007 at 07:52 PM.
10-24-2007, 07:53 PM
#23
SFZCC
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Lake Worth, FL
Posts: 7,419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by rrmedicx
Yes, that isthe correct placement for the plug. It seems a little strange, but based on the 45 degree angle of the original temp sensor, I found it a little short on reach for the now vertical position temp sensor on the new pipe.
Or it could be that my harness is just sitting a bit lower than previously, thereby shortening the amount ofplay left in the original wire. Either way,I made it work.
Also, as far as the hose to the oil cooler...I definitely needed to get a longer hose to reach the distance.
Was anyone able to re-fasten the 14mm bolt up front to secure the side pipe back to the front of the timing cover? I found that it was extended too far to even dream of re-attaching the pipe back to the original location.
Or it could be that my harness is just sitting a bit lower than previously, thereby shortening the amount ofplay left in the original wire. Either way,I made it work.
Also, as far as the hose to the oil cooler...I definitely needed to get a longer hose to reach the distance.
Was anyone able to re-fasten the 14mm bolt up front to secure the side pipe back to the front of the timing cover? I found that it was extended too far to even dream of re-attaching the pipe back to the original location.
As for benefits of it, the comments saying it doesn't benefit are strictly based on coolant temps, why would anyone think this would reduce the coolant temps?? what is not taken into account is that the coolant will flow differently therefore maybe maintaining internal parts of the engine cooler with the new flow. I left the thermostat off of mine so it flows all of the time.
10-24-2007, 07:59 PM
#24
Banned
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by westpak
Did you cut it? you are supposed to cut it at th eend where the new coupling is attached.
As for benefits of it, the comments saying it doesn't benefit are strictly based on coolant temps, why would anyone think this would reduce the coolant temps?? what is not taken into account is that the coolant will flow differently therefore maybe maintaining internal parts of the engine cooler with the new flow. I left the thermostat off of mine so it flows all of the time.
As for benefits of it, the comments saying it doesn't benefit are strictly based on coolant temps, why would anyone think this would reduce the coolant temps?? what is not taken into account is that the coolant will flow differently therefore maybe maintaining internal parts of the engine cooler with the new flow. I left the thermostat off of mine so it flows all of the time.
10-24-2007, 08:11 PM
#25
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Seattle.
Posts: 2,634
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So leaving the thermostat OFF will actually cause coolant to flow constantly, and NOT just at certain temperatures? Wouldn't this be inherently superior in terms of cooling?
10-24-2007, 08:25 PM
#26
Banned
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Devil Z
So leaving the thermostat OFF will actually cause coolant to flow constantly, and NOT just at certain temperatures? Wouldn't this be inherently superior in terms of cooling?
10-25-2007, 04:24 AM
#28
we have left the thermostat off every one except for the first one. i am sure there is a reason that nissan made it for the low revving long haul tow vehicle and not the Z. although it is a "cool" idea, i just dont see any gains on the street, track or dyno.
it is nearly impossible to have two identical cars and to have one with the mod and one without it, so these are just my opinions.
the always running fan shrouds work really well though..
also, if you cut the pipe in the right spot, all of the oil warmer lines, and the front 14 mm bolt on top will fit just perfectly.
it is nearly impossible to have two identical cars and to have one with the mod and one without it, so these are just my opinions.
the always running fan shrouds work really well though..
also, if you cut the pipe in the right spot, all of the oil warmer lines, and the front 14 mm bolt on top will fit just perfectly.
10-25-2007, 05:38 AM
#30
SFZCC
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Lake Worth, FL
Posts: 7,419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by QuadCam
I thought this mod was really only for the guys running Darton MID system, since those guys were having issues with the rear cylinders running significantly hotter than the middle and front cylinders.
Originally Posted by WA2GOOD
Leaving the 2nd thermostat off would only allow the coolant to pass through all the time. I would think that this would only prevent the car from getting up to operating temperature as fast as it would if the Thermostat were on. When the car is up to operating temperature and both thermastats are open it would all work the same.
Originally Posted by WA2GOOD
Interesting, not a bad idea. I am all FOR any idea that will help the heat soak in these FI'ed cars, hell I hope and wish it did/does work. It was a good try, I just have not seen any benefit with this mod on any of the few I have seen. Kudo's to the pioneers that have/are trying it and I hope you do not have any coolant leaks from it.
10-25-2007, 06:16 AM
#31
Registered User
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: .
Posts: 9,482
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Zivman
I didn't have a water temp gauge prior to the install, nor did I log the water temps off the stock setup.
Honestly, I think it makes a difference, but not all that much. I believe the rear stat is 190*. Basically I see temps a lot of the time around 180*. That would mean the rear stat is closed most of the time. Under harder driving conditions the temps climb past 190 and the stat would open. I don't see the temps dramatically drop or even stay constant at 190 under hard driving. Temps usually climb to 200-210 and level off -> 210 would be under VERY hard driving.
One thing I can tell though is my oil temps are down though. usually saw them climb to 220 under hard conditions, but now rarely do I see them above 205-210. I have no idea if it is related, but I am running the same oil cooler I was previously before I installed the new rear coolant mod
Honestly, I think it makes a difference, but not all that much. I believe the rear stat is 190*. Basically I see temps a lot of the time around 180*. That would mean the rear stat is closed most of the time. Under harder driving conditions the temps climb past 190 and the stat would open. I don't see the temps dramatically drop or even stay constant at 190 under hard driving. Temps usually climb to 200-210 and level off -> 210 would be under VERY hard driving.
One thing I can tell though is my oil temps are down though. usually saw them climb to 220 under hard conditions, but now rarely do I see them above 205-210. I have no idea if it is related, but I am running the same oil cooler I was previously before I installed the new rear coolant mod
I'm by no means an expert on this subject, but just considering how this mod is supposed to function... Seeing as you're increasing flow to certain components in the motor, you should actually see higher coolant temps! On the other hand, you should see lower oil temps as the motor itself is actually bleeding heat off more efficiently.
If you want lower *coolant* temps, you just have to find a way to dissipate that heat from the cooling system you'll have to compensate via upgraded radiator/fans/shroud.
I'm not sure if it's worth it, but my car has one of these mods installed. I figure it couldn't hurt so why not... Oh, and my motor DID initially have a slight coolant leak from this mod, but it was fixed within a matter of minutes.
Anyway, feel free to let me know if I'm off base here.
10-27-2007, 02:05 PM
#32
Registered User
iTrader: (109)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Upgrading to a Stillen Stage 4 with Nitrous soon. Since I will have to remove the blower for the install I was thinking about adding this mod to the mix.
Still a little confused on what goes where. Anyone have pics of the new vs. old installed? This might give me a better idea. Also where is the right place to make the cut to make everything fit right?
I don't want to make a thousand trips to AZ. Thanks guys!
Still a little confused on what goes where. Anyone have pics of the new vs. old installed? This might give me a better idea. Also where is the right place to make the cut to make everything fit right?
I don't want to make a thousand trips to AZ. Thanks guys!
10-27-2007, 03:01 PM
#33
Well basically, once you remove the upper & lower plenum, remove the lower intake...that will expose the Square trap door on the top of the engine. It acts as a port to the rear side of the engine. It has a block plate on it which is replaced with a port to the rear coolant pipe shown here.
You also need to replace the rear pipe with the one that comes with this kit (shown above), if you choose to buy if from FP. Keep in mind that these are pathfinder parts and you could buy them from the dealer, or just take the easy route and buy it from Sharif.
It pretty self explanatory once you see it.
Here is the old:
You also need to replace the rear pipe with the one that comes with this kit (shown above), if you choose to buy if from FP. Keep in mind that these are pathfinder parts and you could buy them from the dealer, or just take the easy route and buy it from Sharif.
It pretty self explanatory once you see it.
Here is the old:
Last edited by rrmedicx; 10-27-2007 at 03:34 PM.
10-27-2007, 03:04 PM
#34
Read the first thread to see what else you will need.
By putting them side by side, I noticed that the location of the sensor not only changes angle, but moves over closer to the driver side.
I had to extend the wires to my water temp sensor, others here have not had too. I guess its all just how you put it together.
By putting them side by side, I noticed that the location of the sensor not only changes angle, but moves over closer to the driver side.
I had to extend the wires to my water temp sensor, others here have not had too. I guess its all just how you put it together.
Last edited by rrmedicx; 10-27-2007 at 03:36 PM.
10-28-2007, 04:40 AM
#36
Originally Posted by reptile718
The only thing I don't understand is where does the black hose go connected on the new piece? I don't see an opening for it?
10-28-2007, 12:07 PM
#37
Registered User
iTrader: (109)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by rrmedicx
The black hose that you see connected to the Original hose is not utilized in the new set-up. That's why i still have it attached to the old pipe. You now have to improvise a cap to block the other end of where the hose leads to...Others here have chosen to cut it off and weld the opening shut. Choose your battle.
10-28-2007, 01:57 PM
#38
This is the plug I purchased. It fit snug, but when you think about every hose being clamped, I thought a little extra security wouldn't hurt. I used safety wire and twisted a loop around it and tightened it up so I don't have to worry about that popping off.
Unfortunately there isn't a lot of light but hopefully in the other pic you can see the pipe extension that the bypass hose above in question would attach to...now capped off.
Unfortunately there isn't a lot of light but hopefully in the other pic you can see the pipe extension that the bypass hose above in question would attach to...now capped off.
Last edited by rrmedicx; 10-28-2007 at 01:59 PM.
10-29-2007, 01:33 PM
#39
350Z-holic
iTrader: (60)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes
on
19 Posts
Plug location!
nice plug job...... this pic may help explain/show where the plug needs to go.
plug location = red circle
hose no longer used = green oval
[IMG]
[/IMG]-j
plug location = red circle
hose no longer used = green oval
[IMG]
[/IMG]-j
10-29-2007, 01:38 PM
#40
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NOLA
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That plug will most likely leak over time. Once it goes through many heat cycles the rubber will start to harden and crack, thus leaking. If you want plug a coolant passage than you should get it welded up.