Thanks for the info guys, I will prob. weld it shut. That hose seems to be pretty useless wonder why its there?

rrmedicx - how long has that plug been installed? any leak issues since adding this mod? I will prob order one from forged by the end of the week.

 

I didn't know that I had to cut the passenger side piping which is probably why the added length pushed my install so far forward, shifting things a bit out of whack.

Sharif, you may want to consider adding install instructions with your package to avoid small but very important issues like these that have been brought up thus far in this product review.
Just a thought to improve a good idea.

 

I just installed this mod about 1 week ago and the plug is exactly that...1 week old. No leaks or any problems so far. I will dyno the car next week. I guess if I spring a leak, I will opt to get it welded.
Welding is definitely a winter plan. I just needed to get the car up & running right away, so even though welding occurred to me, plugging it was the quickest option.

 

I have a 240, but have used those plugs on a few deleted coolant passages. Daily driving for the most part they were fine, but once I completed a few road course session, the leak occured.

I don't think they can stand up to the pressures and temperatures while on the track, which I never see on the street.

I sucked, because I missed most of the day trying to get it repaired. At an event is the last place you want to break something.

 

Do you think the likelihood of the plug failing during a dyno run is more than 50%? If so, I will make arrangement to break it down and get it welded before I go. I am anticipating running the car to anywhere upwards of 12-16psi of boost.

Not sure if the boost applied by twin turbos have an impact on pressure of the cooling system. Can anyone elaborate on this?

Is it more likely with higher boost than a coolant plug would fail, or is it completely irrelevant? Your feedback is appreciated.

 

I was putting mine together today and I cut the pipe as it was noted in this thread thanks

I spent the whole day trying to find a proper plug for the bypass even a barbed fitting I didn't care I found none. The 1/4 NPT or COMP plugs would not fit. The only plug that would fit was some elbows and T's that had 1/4 MPT. I finally went to NAPA and they had a NPT plug which seems to have a little play but it feels tight once it screwed all the way down.

Can anyone shed any light on this conundrum.

I still have to pickup the pressure collars for the tube that goes from the T-Housing to the Plate and weld the small pipe closed.

Here are some pics so people can get a idea

 

Great writeup and thanx for the information. I almost did this mod when I had a VQ30DEK(They came with same coolant log as the PF) sitting next to my 3.5, but didnt think it was worth the trouble.

In general I think it will infact help keep temps down, but as for my experience with almost stock cooling system (even stock radiator), I have no heating problems at all with my built vq35, temps sit at 180ish during normal driving conditions, in no a/c and traffic they get to 199-202. during WOT at 15psi of boost (single turbo), temp actually goes down (to high 170s) during the run. All i have is HR head gasket along with machined coolant passage on the block, oh and 350z tstat.

 

assuming there's enough slack in the hose that runs up to the heater, couldn't you just saw that nipple off flush (the little one you guys cap) then push the heater hose further down on the hose barb? you'd then just clamp the heater hose below where the nipple used to be.

 

thats weird that you had 2 tapped holes on your rear coolant pipe. mine only had one.

 

I did this mod when doing my build, but without purchasing that piece. I just welded up the coolant fittings for the TB and the one going from the rear coolant pipe to the heater hose outlet. I came across a CNC machined piece that allowed me to put an AN fitting in and just ran a hose from the heater hose barb to the block. You could just drill and tap that factory plate on the block, it just seemed too thin.
I don't think it keeps temps down any, the purpose is to just allow heat dissipation in an area that originally was just a dead air space, (or allow coolant to flow more freely if that was already a water passage)

 

Yeah Glen, it's definitely weird that your set-up has 2 open ports. Mine also had only 1 open port. Get that port welded shut while things are apart.
I also eliminated the oil cooler/warmer piece altogether. Its totally unnecessary. Especially now that I have a custom oil cooler.
So while my piece was out, I also welded up some other ports as well.
Good Luck. Glad to see this thread came back to life.

 

you might want to use the other hole, if I remember correctly the other location, only on on my tube, was really close to the cam sensor plug and was a tight fit to get the cam sensor plug in

of course if it doesn't interfere with something else

 

ya i cant plug in my water sensor bc the cam plug is too close. If i clock the water sensor so its flat part is facing the cam sensor, it might work. getting the proper sized washer though is a PITA.

I thiink the water sensor is a M12 straight thread gonna check it out tomorrow, bc i might have to tap the other spot where you have tapped hole already.

 

nice information, maybe a winter project

 

just as an fyi someone already hit the nail on the head about this.

Allowing more flow through the heads won't in fact decrease coolant temps. Maybe head temps i guess but not coolant temps. The only time coolant temperature can be decreased is as it passes through the radiator.

If you don't have the heat dissipating portion (radiator) of your cooling system upgraded then adding flow won't magically help dissipate heat.

This might, however, make for more even temps across the cylinders which is very beneficial but that is completely different than actually lowering the temps of the coolant.

This makes perfect sense when thinking why they have this mod on a towing vehicle. When towing the engine is under a higher load for prolonged time. This of course causes combustion temps to rise significantly. If you have rear cylinders with less heat dissipation than the front cylinders due to a flow problem then they will have a higher chance of detonation. So when the temps go up this opens and allows more flow to the rear cylinders which will then keep all the cylinders at a consistent temperature.

the cars don't generally have a heavy load on the engines for a long time (8 hour trip or whatever) so the cylinder differences probably wasn't enough of an issue to warrant the extra cost nissan would use to implement this into those engines.

 

I still have this mod in my junk bin if anyone wants to purchase? I already parted out the rest of my car.
Make me an offer via PM and it will ship out in 1 day.
Thanks.

 

50$ shipped

 

Sold to user "mw9"..payment has been received.
Thanks for the business and good luck with your car.
I will ship it out on Tuesday 9/19.

 

Hey Randy, nice to see you still lurking from time to time. Hope the BMW is still fun... and stock.

 

Hey Chris, check your PM.