I drive my car like Al Cowlings in a White Ford Bronco

 

 

According to this thread the rods are most likely to go, but it was said a few times that it is all in the tune at what point the rods will go. Predetonation will claim any motor and I have some pretty nasty pics of what was left of a shattered rod in my motor. Anyone deciding to go FI should have good knowlege or no some one that does about tuning their vehicle. NA will have a leaner AFR and more timing and FI will have a richer AFR and lower timing to reduce cyl pressure and cool the quench area

 

So its safe to say these motors really are not that strong at all with or with out tuning. Which kinda sucks since if you just want another 100hp you need to be VERY safe and have a deep pocket just in case or build the motor and do FI all at one time

 

Any FI from weaksauce 50whp above stock Stillen to 500whp miracle set-ups on stock blocks is a coin toss. If you cant live with a 50/50 chance, dont do it...

 

That is exactly why they say you have to pay to play. you can have 2 cars with the exact same setup and 1 will have preignition issues and the other will not. 1 guy blew at 390ft/lbs and he drives his car hard. Stabbing your throttle from 0-100 tps will stretch more chains than rolling on the throttle. I assume you guys having timing chains (I don't own a 350z..sorry) and not belts. A little stretch over time will change cam timing a bit...might not be enough to do anything. Point is, you drive the car hard, it will break wether it is stock or not. phat04350z, I told you in private and I tell you on a public forum. If you choose to mod your car, tuner is first. You will yeild some gains with a tune but when the big stuff comes around, you will know what and how to change it and reduce the chances for a rod failure. NA setups...i can't help you much with but FI I can help

 

poor puppy...

 

Does someone want to get him some Viagra! lol

 

That'll buff right out