Smasher

iTrader: (2)

I hope I didn`t select the wrong Clutch here.
Brand new Carbonetics twin installed so I will report back if any issues. Stock lines not SS.

I had the Clutchmasters FX300 in before and had never experienced this issue.

XKR

iTrader: (1)

You will be fine...in the end it was not a clutch issue....it was air in the line....Carbonetics is a good brand

Fairlady_z33

iTrader: (56)

Yeah I have the same issue on my 2jz set up im running the triple carbonetics and I was wondering why was it sticking at a certain spot when driving it. The thing is that I press it and its hard as hell then I put it in gear and start to engage it and maybe an inch of travel and it becomes stiff /stuck and the only way to get it to move is releasing a big amount of foot pressure and that results in a abrupt take off. And then sometimes in between I will get a smooth pedal and then roughs up and again. I’m going to bleed my line today or tomorrow and report back. I hope this is the fix.

35Z

Same issue as well with stock clutch/PP/Flywheel. Slave replaces twice under warranty; Master replaced once - my dime. Replaced clutch line with SS one....seems to keep line pressure in daily driving better.

Had similar problem with my 240SX. Seems Nissan doesn't design their car's clutch slave/master to be compatible.

discom

I have the Carbonetics Triple plate too and like most of you, my clutch pedal would stick after some hard driving.

I replaced my master and slave too, but the problem would come back. Tried Motul RBF600 and still no luck.

It was only when I changed to Castrol SRF that the pedal issue was resolved. My brakes are also more resistant to brake fade now too because of SRF

I know that it is a lot more expensive, but to me it is worth it.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

SRF might be just the ticket...good work. All I know, is that our clutch hydrolic system is kinda wimpy. SRF would be a much easier and cheaper solution than upgrading the MS or SS.

Fairlady_z33

iTrader: (56)

It kind of makes sense the more you drive the car the worse it gets. When I get out of the drive way the clutch feels amazing smooth as it gets for a high performance clutch. But once I hit some traffic it turns into hell gets stiff and engages at different points makes me look like I cant drive stick to save my life. Ima give the Castrol sfr a try its expensive but if it cures it it can also save you hundreds or thousands of dollars on constant repairing of carbon disks.

BTW can I get the SFR at a local auto parts?

discom

Thanks I have been running SRF for about 9000 miles now. In that time, I only got the clutch stick issue once and that was after a very hard track day session. But once the car completed a warm down lap, the problem disappeared.

Very important is to completely bleed the system of the old brake fluid. Make sure that the clutch pedal is pumped as well as the brake pedal when bleeding.

Not sure if it is easily available in the States, but in Singapore, only a few dealers carry it as not many people know about it. And of those that know about it, most would rather go with Motul RBF600 because of price. But a quick Google shows a few sites selling it online.

Fairlady_z33

iTrader: (56)

already found a place that sells it its about an hour away but i have nothing better to do today so ill go pick it up. thanks for the input ill let you guys know how it goes.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

wow at 75$ a bottle, that castrol SRF is mighty pricy

GolfinZ

iTrader: (6)

So no one puts in a different MC? I bet that would help/fix the issue. It would be worth a shot

35Z

So, why not be the first to try it and let everyone that has a 350Z with manual transmission know if a different master clutch will cure the "sticking clutch under hard use phenomenom/return to normal stop position" is the cure! I may have to try the magical Castrol SRF fluid.

Like Sharif was implying; Nissan slave/master clutch system is wimpy!! Having owned several Nissan with manual transmissions, the clutch slave/master cylinders are prone to have issues sooner or later!!

Nexx

iTrader: (41)

THANK GOD!! I thought I was the only one!!!!! My starts getting all sorts of sticky and gummy or at least it feels that way after some heavy traffic driving. Engagement point gets all out of whack and I even stall from time to time. How much of this SFR stuff is needed?

ToastZ

iTrader: (2)

nice post,.. thanks

XKR

iTrader: (1)

I Had the same problem....took it to the dealer....They bleed the hell out of it and that fixed it. They said it was air in the line...

Fairlady_z33

iTrader: (56)

ok guys I got some motul 600 wet boiling point is 420 something. I just bled the entire system. Open the bleeding valve let it all drain out and then started to pour the motul until it started to come out the bleeding valve. Closed it up and started the bleeding process. Got the clutch nice and firm. Turned on the car pedal seems firm but not stiff or hard to push down for a triple. I will be taking it for a spin tonight see how it performs if it still gets sticky ill just bleed the line a bit more just to make sure I don’t have any air in it. I didn’t get the Castrol because the shop that I got the racing brake fluid is a track shop n most of their cars are auto x and course cars they told me to just give the motul a try since Castrol is expensive and might be a bit over kill. If the motul doesn’t resolve it I guess ill just go for the Castrol. Ill have an update tonight.

Yea same here i thought i was the only one. It gets really bad at times really stiff and doesnt fully disengage the clutch.

escobar929

iTrader: (1)

^cool, let us know how it came out

i also thought i was the only one for a while, i remember once i stalled at a light and the moron next to me said "guess you cant handle all that power", it made me so mad. i've been driving manual for over 10 years and i never stall, like never. im getting mad just thinking about it

/rant

GolfinZ

iTrader: (6)

I would I just don't have a 350z anymore. It would be worth a shop to try at least, and if it worked then build your MC kit for the 350z/g35. A vette vendor (tick performance if your interested to see what they put together for the vette guys) took a tilton mc that costs about a hundred dollars and made a "kit" with a new ss line and a templet to mount it (have to only drill 2 holes) and resells it for 300. I almost guarantee if you guys find a bigger bore MC (one that flows more fluid with would in turn keep the heat down) that fits the stock location, the sticky pedal goes away. We know its not the clutch as most have upgraded their clutches, so we know its not that part of the puzzle...its the MC and its size that's the problem...

Fairlady_z33

iTrader: (56)

Well guys I tested out the car last night. My clutch needed the bleed regardless. Like I said when I did the bleeding on the clutch I opened the bleeding valve all the way to just dump all the old liquid out.

Then I poured the new stuff with the valve still open until I saw some of it come out. Then closed up the valve and started to bleed my system.

Now what I noticed was that it didn’t take much time for the clutch to catch pressure after a couple of repetitions of bleeding. So I just did it like 5 more times and put everything back together.

Now for the test drive I must say that it felt like a different world the clutch was very smooth and I ran it hard a few times in the highway then went to the local blocks and did some stop to stop driving the clutch felt fine at times it stiffen up a bit but the 1st gear take off 95 percent of the time was smooth like butter. But what im thinking about is that the bleeding I didn’t do a really good bleeding job it was a quick one so sometime this week ill bleed the clutch again.

But to my conclusion the liquid really does help. At least in my opinion. Now like golfin z says a MC might just be the answer no one really knows another thing ima do is get some heat reflector wrapping that shinny stuff that looks like foil paper and wrap the line in it so see if that keeps it cooler also just a thought and not expensive so might as well give it a try.

Ill do more testing in the next few days

GolfinZ

iTrader: (6)

If this keeps happening with higher grade fluids, its not the fluid. Trust me, vettes/camaros/f bodys have a worse off time with their hydraulics than 350z/g35s do. Some, including myself, change our mc reservoir at every gas station with new fluid (http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html this is what vette guys have been doing for years until tick perf. came out with their MC kit, which is just a tilton mc that has a much bigger bore than stock, and a new ss line)