I did a search....but if it has already been posted...I will remove it !

Took my G to the dealer and had the Master cylinder changed twice because after pressing the clutch...it would not return to its original position. After the dealer drove it....they also agreed that it was the master cylinder. After changing the cylinder twice....the problem stayed the same. Turns out...it was air in the lines. After removing the air...it now feels like stock...with the exception of zero slip.


Is there anyone else that has had this problem

 

Yep! Changed out to SS lines and bled the libes and no problem. You have to do this just about every time you track your car or drive our car "Hard".

 

The slave went bad on mine (twin disk/no ss line). Odd that they're placing the master.

 

it is SUPER tempermental with any air in the line. even a leak so small it won't even drop out fluid of the fitting, will do it too.

 

My triple disc went thru the same thing. PF replaced the master and slave cyls and ended it up bleeding it a bunch of times to get the air out. Also, my braided ss clutch line apparently had bad threads on it and they dropped in a stock one. I've been meaning to msg the seller about that.

Mine still feels softer when I cold start the car, but after driving it a while it stiffens up. It's not bad just kinda weird. Anyone else have this too?

 

I have experienced similar symptoms before but not often, just when it's cold or after a lot of high spirited highway driving. I have the same Triple, Upgraded Clutch Line, Motul Fluid, but haven't had to replace any cylinders yet.

 

I even had them change to a new SS line. You press the clutch and it stays flat to the ground and I could not get the car in gear.

The dealer said that they would change out the slave if bleeding the line did not work.


I have had air in the line before in other cars...but never had it react this way. Felt like the clutch went out.


Yes, Mine feels a little soft at cold start also...but as i back it out the garage...it goes back to normal.
Now that I look over the work sheet Sharif did....he did change the Slave Cyl.


You wont have to change any cylinders....if I had known this before...I would have had that bleed the hell out of it before changing out anything....even though new parts never hurt.

 

Im about to change from my ACT 6puck to the carbonetics triple? I havent experienced this yet, is it common just on the triple?

 

I have a trip. plate carbonetics, I have bleed the hell out of it, ss line, motul fulid, still is tuff to shift into rev- 1st - second. I think it's adjustment...I hope, which way? who knows? I think the sitck to the floor bs is indicitive of "air in line"
Kevin

 

I've had the same issue with mine, and I've changed out my share of lines, masters, and slaves. Always seems to be some combination of the three.

It's not specific to Carbonetic or multi plate clutches....seen it with other clutches as well.

Even stock clutch OEM crowd reports the "clutch sticking to the floor" issue.

 

i had an issue with a local guys car. swapped the clutch line out, blead it with a pump AND manually, leak checked it, put motor back in, clutch went to the floor and didn't come up. pulled engine, checked everything, engine back in, clutch to the floor. pulled engine, took careful measurements of bearing height engagement, called everyone i knew to see if they had probs with that clutch. reinstalled motor, clutch to floor. posted on forums, got no answers. after calming down for about a week and making sure all the measurements were correct from another new ats twin (thanks sharif) i had at it again. not a single drop of fluid or even a wet fitting this whole time!!!! i thought i would tug on the fitting one more time, after great effort, i got about maybe a 1/8th turn more on it, jumped back in and it worked perfectly from that point !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i was so happy it actually covered up some of my embarrassment. NEVER seen anything like that before being SO tempermental and not even a trace of fluid. let my situation be advice to those who run into this first.

 

With my Carbonetics clutch, I struggle with clutch when clutch is hot or on hot days. It gets so bad that when I am on any incline my car wont go forward without me releasing the clutch very fast and spinning the wheels. What do you guys think it is. Also when my car is cold i hear a whining noise coming from by transmission. when I press clutch in then it goes away and also when my car is hot.

Any advise guys?

Regards

 

Thats exactly what the dealer said

 

The first part of your statement sounds like the same problems I have had....bleeding it solved that problem.

The second part about the whining....most aftermarket clutch systems make some kind of noise, and pressing the clutch will quiet it down alittle.....thats normal.

 

I am on my 3rd master and 2nd slave cylinders. The last master cylinder started to get notchy. It was no longer smooth. So I replaced it.

I don't know which clutch compound you have in your Carbonetic clutch, but when hot they get very grabby. The R compound absolutely sucks. I had it and it was terrible! The standard compound get's fairly grabby when hot and doesn't suck as bad, but still sucks. I live in FL and we don't have inclines. It must suck on hills so bad.

JET

 

I've been running the Carbonetics triple carbon+Motul fluid+OEM clutch line setup for over 10K miles and fortunately I haven't experienced my pedal sticking to the floor like some of you guys. The only issue with this setup is a slight increase in pedal stiffness after driving hard on a hot day(90+). I have this clutch in my daily driven TT G and love it!

 

I had the isuue with my OEM cluth with my TN kit when I would be in heavy stop and go traffic. I would have to pull the pedal up off the floor with my toe to get it to come all the way up, luckily it would stick above the engagement point. Just switched to the Carbonetics Twin with SS line. If my car ever sees the road again I will see how it holds up.

 

Welcome back, Derek!

 

This happened to my 350 when I had it at the track and it is a huge problem with vettes. What causes the vette's clutch to drop is the very small bore in the MC that can't flow the fluid fast enough when hot, so many people get a bigger bore MC from Tilton or Mcloud. Has anyone tried a bigger bore MC that flows more fluid??

 

i also still have this problem, i've had my master cylinder replaced twice and although its not as bad, sometimes it doesnt engage at the same point. kinda like it would before when the pedal would get stuck

maybe there is still a lil air bubble in there