Minimum Requirements for Built Engine
Minimum Requirements for Built Engine
I'm planning on purchasing a turbo kit for my Z later in the year. My biggest fear is the stock engine not being able to survive the extra boost. Is there a minimum requirement for building the Z's engine to withstand 8 - 15 psi?
If you are on a budget I would recommend a basic build consisting of Arias ED pistons, Eagle rods, ARP hardware, and ARP 2000 11mm head studs.
Good luck!
-George
GT Motorsports
Good luck!
-George
GT Motorsports
Originally Posted by gZman4
I'm planning on purchasing a turbo kit for my Z later in the year. My biggest fear is the stock engine not being able to survive the extra boost. Is there a minimum requirement for building the Z's engine to withstand 8 - 15 psi?
-.020 overbore
-choice of forged piston; CP, Mahle, Arias, Wiseco, etc. I would get Arias ED from experience
-Eagle rods - also your choice, but eagles are strong and cheap
-new bearing sets throughout
-new oem gaskets/O-rings throughout
-HKS or Cosworth stopper style head gaskets
-ARP L19 head studs
-thoroughly review/mag crank to ensure it is good
-I would swap in a rev-up oil pump
You can leave the stock heads alone, just make sure the mating surface is good. I am sure I am missing a few things, but others will chime in
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From: tennessee
Hmmm... Minimum requirements...
I'd say you should not attempt to build for FI on a "minimum requirement" basis. That is a risky mindset, in my very humble opinion. But, to be fair, it is possible to overbuild. Discuss your goals with a competent builder and an accomplished tuner, both of whom can provide you with the wisdom you need to make good choices without spending needlessly.
I have visited this forum for a long time, and a common theme seems to be remorseful folks who took the "minimum requirement" route, expecting that would be the same as the "least cost" route. Oftentimes they are not the same. A good, up-front investment in a safe build may cost more initially, but save you much $$$ in the long run. How much is peace of mind worth? A lot.
Those folks with low boost always seem to want more, eventually. You should build the car as strongly as your budget will permit at the start, even if your HP goals are modest, now. When you are ready for more boost, your engine will be ready, too, without the need for more work. Remember, the LABOR is a huge component cost in such modifications. Anything you can do to eliminate double work will pay huge dividends over the life of your car.
Good luck!
I'd say you should not attempt to build for FI on a "minimum requirement" basis. That is a risky mindset, in my very humble opinion. But, to be fair, it is possible to overbuild. Discuss your goals with a competent builder and an accomplished tuner, both of whom can provide you with the wisdom you need to make good choices without spending needlessly.
I have visited this forum for a long time, and a common theme seems to be remorseful folks who took the "minimum requirement" route, expecting that would be the same as the "least cost" route. Oftentimes they are not the same. A good, up-front investment in a safe build may cost more initially, but save you much $$$ in the long run. How much is peace of mind worth? A lot.
Those folks with low boost always seem to want more, eventually. You should build the car as strongly as your budget will permit at the start, even if your HP goals are modest, now. When you are ready for more boost, your engine will be ready, too, without the need for more work. Remember, the LABOR is a huge component cost in such modifications. Anything you can do to eliminate double work will pay huge dividends over the life of your car.
Good luck!
Originally Posted by bullseye
Hmmm... Minimum requirements...
I'd say you should not attempt to build for FI on a "minimum requirement" basis. That is a risky mindset, in my very humble opinion. But, to be fair, it is possible to overbuild. Discuss your goals with a competent builder and an accomplished tuner, both of whom can provide you with the wisdom you need to make good choices without spending needlessly.
I have visited this forum for a long time, and a common theme seems to be remorseful folks who took the "minimum requirement" route, expecting that would be the same as the "least cost" route. Oftentimes they are not the same. A good, up-front investment in a safe build may cost more initially, but save you much $$$ in the long run. How much is peace of mind worth? A lot.
Those folks with low boost always seem to want more, eventually. You should build the car as strongly as your budget will permit at the start, even if your HP goals are modest, now. When you are ready for more boost, your engine will be ready, too, without the need for more work. Remember, the LABOR is a huge component cost in such modifications. Anything you can do to eliminate double work will pay huge dividends over the life of your car.
Good luck!
I'd say you should not attempt to build for FI on a "minimum requirement" basis. That is a risky mindset, in my very humble opinion. But, to be fair, it is possible to overbuild. Discuss your goals with a competent builder and an accomplished tuner, both of whom can provide you with the wisdom you need to make good choices without spending needlessly.
I have visited this forum for a long time, and a common theme seems to be remorseful folks who took the "minimum requirement" route, expecting that would be the same as the "least cost" route. Oftentimes they are not the same. A good, up-front investment in a safe build may cost more initially, but save you much $$$ in the long run. How much is peace of mind worth? A lot.
Those folks with low boost always seem to want more, eventually. You should build the car as strongly as your budget will permit at the start, even if your HP goals are modest, now. When you are ready for more boost, your engine will be ready, too, without the need for more work. Remember, the LABOR is a huge component cost in such modifications. Anything you can do to eliminate double work will pay huge dividends over the life of your car.
Good luck!
-George
GT Motorsports
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: San Diego
Arias or JE pistons,Pauter rods,Jwt cams depending on application, a good set of studs, and a good set of main and rod bearings.
If you would like some reasonable pricing give SpeedForceRacing a call at (6193284012)
If you would like some reasonable pricing give SpeedForceRacing a call at (6193284012)
What about running ~ 6 psi or 350-380whp, is that much more likely to last than @ 9psi? What about different kits that output more whp for a lower psi? Is it the psi that's critical or the whp it produces? I'm have my eyes focused on the new Powerlab product.
I'm in the same boat as the OP, but would like to run low boost for a while, and not worry of something blowing, until a (later) complete build is feasible.
I'm in the same boat as the OP, but would like to run low boost for a while, and not worry of something blowing, until a (later) complete build is feasible.
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 350
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From: Kuwait
Originally Posted by Miko
What about running ~ 6 psi or 350-380whp, is that much more likely to last than @ 9psi? What about different kits that output more whp for a lower psi? Is it the psi that's critical or the whp it produces? I'm have my eyes focused on the new Powerlab product.
I'm in the same boat as the OP, but would like to run low boost for a while, and not worry of something blowing, until a (later) complete build is feasible.
I'm in the same boat as the OP, but would like to run low boost for a while, and not worry of something blowing, until a (later) complete build is feasible.
My 2 Fils.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,470
Likes: 5
From: Arizona
^ +1
IMO, there are two key factors on how long your car is going to last...
1. The Tune
2. Your driving style
Boost is like crack... it's addictive. If you have a very mild tune, and you car is not in boost ALL THE TIME, then you should be good. One of my buddies was ST on his 350Z making 390WHP, and the car ran great for over 40K miles (He sold the car, it didn't break
). The product you put in your vehicle does play a role as well. Turbonetics, back when, had overboosting issues, but I believe they have fixed that problem already. On the Powerlab kit, they include Tial products in there kit. With having a Tial wastegate, Tial sells different wastegate springs. This way you can, put the exact PSI spring you want to run into the wastegate, and have it tuned to spring pressure (no boost controller needed). If your not familiar with boosted cars, and you want your motor to last; I would reccomend NOT getting a BC at first, at least until you are more familiar with your driving habits, or prepared for the worst (i.e. building your motor... which wouldn't be a bad thing I guess 
)
Just my 2 cents
IMO, there are two key factors on how long your car is going to last...
1. The Tune
2. Your driving style
Boost is like crack... it's addictive. If you have a very mild tune, and you car is not in boost ALL THE TIME, then you should be good. One of my buddies was ST on his 350Z making 390WHP, and the car ran great for over 40K miles (He sold the car, it didn't break
). The product you put in your vehicle does play a role as well. Turbonetics, back when, had overboosting issues, but I believe they have fixed that problem already. On the Powerlab kit, they include Tial products in there kit. With having a Tial wastegate, Tial sells different wastegate springs. This way you can, put the exact PSI spring you want to run into the wastegate, and have it tuned to spring pressure (no boost controller needed). If your not familiar with boosted cars, and you want your motor to last; I would reccomend NOT getting a BC at first, at least until you are more familiar with your driving habits, or prepared for the worst (i.e. building your motor... which wouldn't be a bad thing I guess )Just my 2 cents
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