I just got boosted with the PE TT kit.

Set up as follows :

PE TT kit
Walboro 225 fuel pump
380cc injectors
Emanage Ultimate
Blitz sbc i colour boost controller
HKS dual exhaust
Plenum spacer
Stock internals

Dyno nos. using Dyno pack based on 15% power loss on 95 octane :

Baseline with exhaust, intake and spacer 338Flywheel hp 412Nm
0.4bar(5.8psi) 436Fhp 538Nm
0.6bar(8.7psi) 469Fhp 654Nm

I know the nos. seems high but as they say, dynos are merely tuning tools and most importantly I ran a baseline to access before and after. Am trying to get my car dynoed on another dyno..think its a DD..to get a more realistic no., but thats dynos currently down so gonna have to wait.

Car feels really different and alive! The power delivery is so linear similar to volvos or saabs with light pressure turbos but more punch especially in the mid-range but tapering after 5500rpm.

The car feels like it can still handle another 50whps and still be a streetable daily driver.

Based on the nos., I feel that I'm not optimising my set up as I've seen others with the PE kit with around 400whp on a DJ. I reckon I'm probably around 360Whp on a DJ.

I would like to post the dyno charts but do not know how to do it. Anybody can chime in on how to do it?

Glenn

 

host it to photobucket and add as an attachment.

 

Thanks.

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...8-baseline.jpg
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...0208-04bar.jpg
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...0208-06bar.jpg
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...230208-AFR.jpg

My tuner experienced problems with the dyno @0.6 bar. Apparently he couldn't get a reading till abt 4k+rpm hence the steep curve

 

that is an interesting graph.

 

Not sure what you mean?

Can you pls. explain? Thanks.

 

i agree. the maps are very interesting, in a bad way, lol.

 

Whats so funny?

 

Your curve looks like a roller coaster. Thats what they mean. Something isn't right. Your tq curve and A/F should not look like that. They should be more consistant.

Also, what pull was the A/F reference taken from? The tq number and curve associated with it doesn't match up with any of the other graphs.

Yet another edit as I keep looking at them....Your power curves appear VASTLY different from each other. The .6 bar looks like a single turbo spool while the .4 bar looks more like a twin. They just don't even look remotely similar honestly. Could you please explain the reason for the "not reading issue". Something seems fishy man. The more info you can provide to the guys here the more help you'll get.

 

I see..all the pulls were done in 4th.

I looked at the AFR's and thought they looked weird as in pretty lean at the lower end but did not think much of it cuz at the higher rpms, it looks pretty constant at 11ish which is what most of the guys here are shooting for..now that I think abt it, it would not be good to run so lean even at low rpms.

According to my tuner, when he did the run on 0.6 boost, the screen on the dyno just momentarily flickered or something while he was accelerating and it could not read below 4k+ rpms. He said that he had a similar experience whilst dynoing a GTR and thinks it has something to do with Nissan's traction control or something.

I am thinking of going back to get a retune and install the Greddy pressure sensor thats supposed to be used with the EMU and re-dyno to see if the AFR's can be smoothed out.

Drivability wise, the power delivery is pretty smooth in 0.4boost and the same when on 0.6 except more oomph!!! Thanks.

 

Yes, you're running pretty lean on the low end and there's a pretty big valley that needs to be worked out there. The WOT A/F is in the range but Im sure the Emanage isn't helping the A/F stability. It could be better.

The excuse on the .6 graph not reading sounds like BS. It is reading, hence the graphical data. A screen flicker shouldn't effect the recording and input of data. Why wouldn't he pull again? And tell him to take the traction control off.

Im not familiar with the Crank HP numbers and how they're established and done on a dyno unless the motor is out of the car and on an engine dyno.

IMO. You need a retune. But I wouldn't have it done by him if you're a paying customer and he's providing you with graphs that "aren't complete" and telling you that your car is "good to go". Something isn't adding up. Hope you don't have your blinders on. More work needs to be done as tuning is concerned imo. And why are you using the Emanage out of curiosity?

 

You could probably use a better fuel system.
PM'd you