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Headers on turbonetics?

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Old 03-18-2008, 04:19 PM
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saberphx
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Originally Posted by HDPD350Z
To put it simply, he is correct.
To put it complicated, his theory and logic are pulled by the gravity of correctness
Old 03-18-2008, 05:05 PM
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smxtmpr34
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ok so headers going out, I'm assuming the plenum spacer should go too? Does tnetics offers a reflash or would it benefit to just get a ems and fine tune it
Old 03-18-2008, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by smxtmpr34
ok so headers going out, I'm assuming the plenum spacer should go too? Does tnetics offers a reflash or would it benefit to just get a ems and fine tune it
Plenum spacer is good on moderate boost levels. Be really sure that it's not throwing the reflash tune off though unless you plan to do a custom tune.

I think I made great power on my stock block Turbonetics setup but once I was built I had some leaking issues.

I'd say keep it.
Old 03-19-2008, 05:48 AM
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ok so as far as getting a ems over a reflash... which would benefit me more?
Old 03-19-2008, 06:18 AM
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reflash is ok for a stock car, stock kit with stock boost levels, if you are planning on changing things to the car or kit i would go with an ems...utec has a premade map for 550 injetors and 440's i think that you could use to ease the cost of initial tunning
Old 03-19-2008, 08:24 AM
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Can I change the boost levels on the stock reflash because it is my everyday car and would like to run lower boost levels when toolin around but then bring it back up to the stock 8 psi when Im out on track days.. Is the reflash good for that or do I need an ems and map selctor
Old 03-19-2008, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by smxtmpr34
Can I change the boost levels on the stock reflash because it is my everyday car and would like to run lower boost levels when toolin around but then bring it back up to the stock 8 psi when Im out on track days.. Is the reflash good for that or do I need an ems and map selctor
In that case you need a UTEC and map selector switch.
At that point unless you are extremely comfortable with turning your car yourself you will need to bring your car to be dyno tuned, and you will be charged probably by hour so having them tune 2 or 3 maps might get expensive.
I'm actually going to attempt to self tune so I can run a couple maps. Wish me luck lol.
Old 03-19-2008, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by saberphx
In that case you need a UTEC and map selector switch.
At that point unless you are extremely comfortable with turning your car yourself you will need to bring your car to be dyno tuned, and you will be charged probably by hour so having them tune 2 or 3 maps might get expensive.
I'm actually going to attempt to self tune so I can run a couple maps. Wish me luck lol.
Not true.

The stock ECU can adjust fuel to compensate for adjustments in metered air via the MAF sensor. It can also adjust fuel based on octane. It won't allow for huge adjustments, but for instance I ran mine personally on wastegate springs at 7.5psi and also at 9.5psi and it adjusted AFR's to be right around 11.5:1. My dyno that's floating around these forums was on the reflash, at 9.1psi, and with a plenum spacer. As long as it's verified by wideband o2 gauge and/or a dyno graph then its fine to adjust boost slightly on the reflash (assuming it was making good AFR's at the defauly 8-8.5psi).

The UTEC doesn't need a map selector switch to run mutliple boost levels, either. The UTEC is boost sensitive and will adjust fuel based on metered boost. The only reason you'd need to pay extra for a map selector switch is if you wanted to run multiple timing maps to make more power on higher octane fuel, with nitrous, or with meth injection. You could also use multiple maps for running a super conservative street tune and also a more aggressive spirited driving tune, but it is not required at all for simply raising or lowering boost.
Old 03-19-2008, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by taurran
Not true.

The stock ECU can adjust fuel to compensate for adjustments in metered air via the MAF sensor. It can also adjust fuel based on octane. It won't allow for huge adjustments, but for instance I ran mine personally on wastegate springs at 7.5psi and also at 9.5psi and it adjusted AFR's to be right around 11.5:1. My dyno that's floating around these forums was on the reflash, at 9.1psi, and with a plenum spacer. As long as it's verified by wideband o2 gauge and/or a dyno graph then its fine to adjust boost slightly on the reflash (assuming it was making good AFR's at the defauly 8-8.5psi).

The UTEC doesn't need a map selector switch to run mutliple boost levels, either. The UTEC is boost sensitive and will adjust fuel based on metered boost. The only reason you'd need to pay extra for a map selector switch is if you wanted to run multiple timing maps to make more power on higher octane fuel, with nitrous, or with meth injection. You could also use multiple maps for running a super conservative street tune and also a more aggressive spirited driving tune, but it is not required at all for simply raising or lowering boost.
good information
Note: Does the ecu adjust A/Fs before it senses knock or after?
If you were to be switching from lower boost to higher boost often, would you be exposing your engine to more knock than usual?

Last edited by saberphx; 03-19-2008 at 08:56 AM.
Old 03-19-2008, 08:55 AM
  #30  
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because I would like to drop it down to 5psi for street and then bring it back up for track days, so just go with a utec or some ems rather then the reflash right.
Old 03-19-2008, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by saberphx
good information
Note: Does the ecu adjust A/Fs before it senses knock or after?
If you were to be switching from a very conservative map to a more aggressive often, would you be exposing your engine to more knock than usual?
From my understanding it will adjust fuel based on MAF voltage/flow and also fuel octane (to a certain extent). If it senses knock it will retard timing. The stock ECU also has three built in maps that it switches between. The reflash should replace these with a single map for boost.

As far as switching maps on the UTEC, it totally depends on your tune. Of course, you should never have knock on a good tune. If you ran 110 octane and advanced timing on one map, you could with no knock. I just know that one day I'd end up forgetting to switch it back and really screw something up when I put pump gas back in it. (I'm forgetful like that). I'd always target 11.0-11.5 AFR's while in boost on a stock motor and 11.5-11.8 on a built motor. The only reason I think I'd change this up is if you were running water/meth or nitrous. After the fuel is all dialed in via injector pulse then the only thing I'd really touch is timing.

Also, the UTEC is really sensitive to knock and will sometimes pick up false knock and shift knock. You can adjust knock sensitivity but it's a bit dangerous to do so without knowing what you're doing.

I'm not a tuner by any means, if any regular self tuners have anything to add feel free.
Old 03-19-2008, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by smxtmpr34
because I would like to drop it down to 5psi for street and then bring it back up for track days, so just go with a utec or some ems rather then the reflash right.
Not necessarily.

The reflash should be able to adjust to an extent. I know it can handle 7.5-9 psi depending on how your car operates at the normal 8.0-8.5psi. I say this because the reflash was written for a car that's running 8-8.5 psi and if your AFR's are screwed up at normal boost levels then it will most likely be screwed up everywhere else (usually due to improper fuel pressure modification).

5 psi is pretty low. I personally ran mine at 7.5 and it was ok. I won't promise anything, but it might be a little rich at 4k+ rpms at only 5psi. Of course, this isn't necessarily a bad thing because it will be even more conservative.

A tunable EMS like the UTEC is always more flexible and ideal if you want to spend the cash on it and tuning. The UTEC also is capable of large adjustments because it is boost sensitive via MAP sensor. If you don't mind putting down some extra cash and have a trustworthy tuner it's the ideal setup and good for piece of mind.
Old 03-19-2008, 11:16 AM
  #33  
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Thats true, right now i guess ill just go for the reflash b/c i know there are shops around here but im not sure on there tuning abilities. if i need to could i send an ecu over to tnetics and have on 06 flash put on it or i need to buy it straight from them?

Thanks Taurran your helping A LOT!!!
Old 03-19-2008, 11:38 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by smxtmpr34
Thats true, right now i guess ill just go for the reflash b/c i know there are shops around here but im not sure on there tuning abilities. if i need to could i send an ecu over to tnetics and have on 06 flash put on it or i need to buy it straight from them?

Thanks Taurran your helping A LOT!!!
Are you buying a used kit? If so, they won't do the reflash for free. It's only included with the purchase of a new retail kit.

If you need to find the price of a reflash, you might want to PM "Ed 718" on these boards. He works at Turbonetics and will tell you what's involved in getting a reflash done.

I'm not sure though. If you buy a used kit then it is probably a better use of your money to just get a utec at the same time. I'm sure the reflash isn't cheap if you have to buy it.
Old 03-19-2008, 11:44 AM
  #35  
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I think the reflash is like 300$
Old 03-19-2008, 12:01 PM
  #36  
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yea im looking for a used kit but im not having any luck finding one. if tnetics offers a kit that has all the fitment issues worked out i will probably go with that
Old 03-20-2008, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by taurran
You're wrong on the header issue.

The turbonetics kit should not be run with aftermarket manifolds. Trying to install it with them will require putting a dent in the downpipe, reducing its efficiency, and will make both the headers and the manifolds contact the frame and/or each other. This will give you rough operation and most likely cause failure of the v-band clamps due to misalignment and evenutally exhaust leaks.

How do I know this? Because I was the first person to install this kit with headers, and eventually went back to stock manifolds after increased lag, rattles, and exhaust leaks. The factory manifolds have already proven to flow well enough for about 700whp. There is no upside to it.
If you've done it, then you would know. I was going off my knowledge of turbo principals and of what T-Netics told me hen I called them. Their info was that I'd have no mounting issues with the headers as long as they had their collector flange in the same spot as the factory manifolds. This is obviously incorrect info.


Originally Posted by KAZ350Z
HEAT SPOOLS THE TURBO!?! Please explain
Buy one of those kid's windmills. Light a candle or two. Hold the windmill over the candles. Windmill spins.

Heat = high pressure
Cold = low pressure

This is why a turbo spins.

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