Given all the issues with cooling people are having lately and the fact that I have 565whp and run it at the track I am going to run the Evans NGP+. I went to the site and left with more questions than I went there with.

For those of you that replaced your antifreeze with NGP+ how much prep do you have to buy? 3 gal? How did you prep the block? Do you add the prep and run it with heater on full hot for a certain amount of time?

JET

 

My question to those running NPG+ is did you make any modifications to the thermostat? On Evans' FAQ they mention recommending removing the thermostat and plugging the tstat bypass.

 

Yeah I noticed that too... but that was for race cars. Are we considered "race cars"?

JET

 

i told sharif to change mine out so i trust he knows what to do with that stuff. maybe he could chime in on it.

 

I spoke with Sharif today and he recommended 4 gallons.

 

man changing over to this stuff looks really expensive but its very much worth the cost.

 

Capacity is 2.5 gal so 3 should be perfect.

It's really expensive with the flush. But it's cheaper than a rebuild. if somethign happens to my car there is no way I'm building a 4th motor.

JET

 

Waits on partout

 

I went through most of these questions with Evans when I originally did it, first the said NOT to remove the thermostat.

Here are some responses I got referring the switch over from coolant to Evans:

unfortunately the drain on the passenger side is next to impossible to get to with the turbos there.

 

my transplant engine is still out of the car... guess they should drain it before installing it back into the bay.

 

yes just flush out the heater core and radiator

 

So tell us what you did.

JET

 

it has been a while but basically just that as I remember it, I ran the car with water first to make sure thee were no leaks or issues after the engine swap, then after a few hundred miles I drained it, opened up the drain by the thermostat and jacked the car from the back. used the prep to absorb the water and drained as above again, just kept trying it until I was as sure as I could that it was drained completely. Then finally put in the Evans hoping I had all of the water out.

Unfortunately the 100+ bucks spent on the stuff went to waste with my sleeve issues, which is what made me leary of trying it again just to lose it if the sleeves were not right, I still have it in the garage so I may go ahead and try it again.

If you have any questions email Tom at tech@evanscooling.com very helpful guy

 

What are your track temps??

IF your seeing 220 degrees or less why would you want to go thru the hassle of switching??

DO you do runs to 160 or 171mph?? No? then why switch?

Is your car over heating??? No? why switch?

Evans runs hotter than regular coolant.

If your running your car up in the 250 and 260 range then yes change it. If not , why??

 

Good points Luie, but keep in mind that the temperature at the exhaust valves just need to spike momentarily (won't affect overall coolant temp), have a steam pocket form, and lead to a cascade of bad events thereafter right at that one spot. I would recommend Evans NPG+ to anyone running FI on a motor designed for NA. It's a great safety net.

 

Heres why... because regardless of the temp of the fluid on the gauge... a single point in the coling system... there are likely higher loclized hot spots in the motor. There is protection to be had if there is air in the system. If an air bubble is present touching a metal surface that spot where the bubble is will get no cooling. If the bubble moves off the surface cooland will contact the surface and immeditaly boil and turn to steam, and cavitating possibly having detrimental results if that steam comes in contact with the head gasket. The evans gives added protection given the fact that it has a much higher boiling point.

As Alberto said in his post about his blown motor. His temp was fine until it instantly was not.

I rev my motor to 7000 RPM. There is some speculation that the water pump cavitates at higher rpm. The Evans will not cavitate from the action of the water pump.

It's extra protection for a few extra dollars.

What my temps are now at the track are not what my temps will be in the July and August FL heat.

JET

 

Still not sure on the thermostat issue, it seems Evan's info is somewhat contradictory depending how you read it.

If the car is a DD then leave thermostat alone,
If the car is tracked, then remove (gut, in our case) it and plug bypass.

What if car is both? lol.

So really I'd just like to hear what those who are running Evans already have done, or not done, to their tstats.

 

^^^
If its both run it as DD cuase that what you will be doing the most, but...
What kind of engine build are you doing... if you are doing a TN setup like your zig says you shouldnt need to worry a lot about this issues as you only need a mild build...unless you zig is intended to deceive

 

My engine is already done, it was built by SVRT (OverZealous1 on here), and yes my turbonetics kit is going on it. And yes, I am sure I dont need Evans, but it seems like an excellent product to prevent localized coolant boiling, and I am in prime position to install it now because the block is bone dry, and I have a brand new radiator as well.

edit - and before you ask, no it is not sleeved. lol

 

Bone dry block - perfect - no worries with contamination with water.

If you see cold temps and run as a DD, I wouldn't mess with the T-stat. You'll know pretty quick (with an aftermarket temp gauge or OBDII monitor) if coolant isn't flowing through the radiator when it should be.