rockd

iTrader: (1)

Here are the settings on my J&S UltraSafeGuard. I'd like to see if there's any feedback or suggestions, and what settings you have yours at...



* Sensitivity - Little less than halfway
* All 5 switches are down
* Boost Retard Rate - Fully counterclockwise
* Boost Retard Start - Fully clockwise (means 10psi)

My car -
* ProCharger @ 7psi, 440cc injectors, Greddy E-Manage Ultimate, Walbro fuel pump, etc...

Mr_pharmD

iTrader: (48)

how u get it to work. I remember they said u would have to hot wire a few things for it to work correctly with the EU.

westpak

iTrader: (19)

well you have to tune it to your car.

the sensitivity or first **** is dependent on how much noise your knock sensor hears

and your boost rate is at 0 so no timing retard will occur

and if you did have some timing retard set in it would never kick in since you have the start **** maxed out
take it to someone that knows what they are doing plus have it tuned

rockd

iTrader: (1)

My tuner knows John at J&S... yes, u do have to rewire a few things, and John sent over a schematic on how to do it. Didn't seem too difficult, though.

rockd

iTrader: (1)

a few corrections -

Boost Retard Rate fully CCW does NOT mean 0... it means 1 degree per PSI. And Boost Retard Start fully CW means it doesn't kick in until 10psi. This is ideal for my application since I'm s/c at only 7psi (don't need it to retard timing based on boost... just when it senses knock).

I did have it tuned, and my tuner knows John @ J&S personally... he's installed the safeguard on numerous VQ's before, so I'm confident he knows what he's doing. I'm just trying to share these settings and see what others are doing, as well.

EDIT -
Boost Retard Rate fully CCW means 0

weslutes

iTrader: (7)

I remember waaay back when Gurgen had the J&S, he ended up blowing his motor. I don't know if that was in correlation with the J&S but I bet it had some part in it.
I'm not saying it doesn't work, but I don't see many of those anymore. It is good your tuner has connections with J&S though.
I'd go with a proven EMS that everyone has/uses, & get a returnless fuel system like the APS.(wait... I have one sitting at the shop if you need )
I dumped my Unichip(same function as E-manage I believe) for the Utec(lots of safety features at a low price) & I'm only at 7psi at the moment.
Good luck

westpak

iTrader: (19)

well glad your tuner knows John but you don't know the unit, per the J&S website

also if the sensitivity is not tuned for the car it is useless, it will either never kick in or kick in all of the time depending on the noise picked up by the knock sensor

and as for setting it to the max for retard start, that is just idiotic, you have the unit might as well use it to retard a little timing, I would put it to start around 2 psi and a rate of 1/2 degree.

Mr_pharmD

iTrader: (48)

Doesnt the EU retard timing also? I don't see why u would need both safeguard and EU for this unless u aren't using the settings in the EU to retard timing?

I'm asking bc I have the EU and as of now I believe I only have around ~14 degrees of timing at WOT vs. 23-25 degrees on a stock timing. I'm afraid to blow again. How much timing are u running at WOT?

John at J&S

Boost retard "Rate" fully CCW means 0° retard per psi. (off).

athenG

iTrader: (2)

Does it? I know Utec does it but didn't know EU can do it also... Are you talking about active knock control where it can retard timing if knock is detected? This is the reason why the OP added the J&S SafeGuard...

rockd

iTrader: (1)

the EU can only retard timing on ALL the cylinders... the J&S can do it on a per-cylinder basis

westpak

iTrader: (19)

I think you are getting things confused, the J&S can do it per cylinder but when doing knock retard, the EU only retards timing based on a map and no knock feedback

Mr_pharmD

iTrader: (48)

Is that a bad thing if the EU only retards timing based on the map? Doesn't that mean it will pull timing automatically even when there's no knocking occurring now? The only bad side I see is it losing some top end hp due to pulling timing from the map even when there isn't any knock present.

rockd

iTrader: (1)

the EU can't detect knock, and it can't retard timing on a per-cylinder basis... that's the benefit of the J&S.

sure, u can pull timing ALL the time using just the EU, but what's the point?

westpak

iTrader: (19)

We are talking two different things here, the EU like any other piggyback, ie unichip, pulls timing based on a map of boost vs rpm and depends on the stock ECU to pull additional timing if it detects knock.

while the J&S can be setup to be more sensitive than the stock ECU and also pull the timing you wish and it does it by individual cylinders and not as abrupt as the stock ECU

The J&S can also be used to pull timing based on boost which this fool has decided not to use and only depend on knock timing retard.

So instead of using the J&S as a safeguard for a major problem he is using it as his timing tuning and not pulling any timing unless there is knock.

I am not even going to bother you have no clue

rockd

iTrader: (1)

be respectful, bro... we weren't even arguing until you called me a fool. that's personal, and i don't think u should be stepping over that line. just keep it civil; if you have some kind of problem, take it up with me via PM. otherwise, stay out of the thread.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (2)

I apologize for bringing back this old thread.

I have the EU which I use to tune my timing (off topic note: I dont have a vq35 ecu, so cant use utec, etc.. EU is my only option). I wont be using the J&S to tune, just as a back up in case my aggressive timing map produces a knock.

I do not want the J&S to retard per psi (since the EU takes care of that), so how should I go about setting the Boost Retard Start and Boost Retard Rate. Should I just turn both ***** all the way to CCW (to ZERO)? Would I even need to hook up a boost/vac line to the J&S since I wont be using the Boost Retard?

EDIT: I answered one of my own questions, I dont have too hook up vacuum since the JS will retard as long as, RPM > 1750, and Vac drops below 5", since vacuum/pressure will be at 0 it will quality to start retarding if it knocks.

John at J&S

Street:

Decel and light engine loads can cause false knock, so software disables knock retard if it sees more than 5 inches of vacuum.

If you experience unwanted retard on decel, connect the vacuum/boost hose.

I have a new version that can handle up to eight channels, has a headphone amplifier in case you want to listen for knock, and a knock-finder display to show which cylinders are being retarded.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (2)

Thanx for the tip, I was going to get your new unit but I came across a very inexpensive Ultra which you saw over at maxima.org.

Based on my previous post, how would recommend I set the boost rate and start? Do i set both to zero (CCW), since the emanage will be retarding based on boost*rpm?

John at J&S

To ensure no boost retard, set the Rate fully CCW, and the Start fully CW.