Engine Build thread
Originally Posted by Chudson coupe
Hey everyone, I've been throwing around the idea of getting a VQ35de out of a totaled car and taking the next year to build it up and then drop it in my G. I've built 1 rotary before a few years ago, but those are much more simple than the v6. Is there any kind of best practices thread for building an engine? If not, lets start one. My skills may not be the best, but its really something I want to try, and I know I will problably run into many problems and it won't be easy.
I don't want this to turn into an argument about which parts to use, I see these all the time, so lets go with them unless other parts are better hands down. I know I'm missing parts - what else is key?
arias pistons $?
eagle rods $?
HR head bolts $?
Stock crankshaft (maybe journaled?) price estimate?
Stock cams
I'm not sure about which bearings are best. $?
It will be boosted, so 9:1 or 8.6:1?
Stock headgasket. $?
650cc Deutch Works injectors (or 600 if they changed) $525
Walbro 255 fuel pump (i already have it)
AAM or CJM fuel return (do I really need this for 550 hp?) $1000
JWT Clutch and Flywheel (still tbd) $800
EMS (tbd, but i have an emanage ultimate (not blue) already, so it will start with that, then go to stand alone eventually)
Greddy spec II profec B boost controller (already have)
Engine overhaul gasket kit $?
Stock TN downpipe for now-3" midpipe - y into 2 3" N1 style mufflers (almost done)
Evolution wastegate (will I need just the bigger spring, or a whole new one to hold 18psi?
Also, if this is going to turn into flaming for not knowing how to build an engine yet, please lock this up, I'm trying to learn how, and figured why not start a thread so that others can learn too, and maybe we can even get some experienced builders to chime in.
Lets start with a used stock block and heads, First step is to get them resurfaced, I'm looking for no more than 550 HP (I have the TN kit so I know i it will be hard to reach that number). So I think I can stick with stock head bolts, maybe go with ARP, but def don't need 1/2".
Steps:
1. deck the block and heads, make sure they are structurally sound $?
Next step? Please, be as detailed as possible.
I don't want this to turn into an argument about which parts to use, I see these all the time, so lets go with them unless other parts are better hands down. I know I'm missing parts - what else is key?
arias pistons $?
eagle rods $?
HR head bolts $?
Stock crankshaft (maybe journaled?) price estimate?
Stock cams
I'm not sure about which bearings are best. $?
It will be boosted, so 9:1 or 8.6:1?
Stock headgasket. $?
650cc Deutch Works injectors (or 600 if they changed) $525
Walbro 255 fuel pump (i already have it)
AAM or CJM fuel return (do I really need this for 550 hp?) $1000
JWT Clutch and Flywheel (still tbd) $800
EMS (tbd, but i have an emanage ultimate (not blue) already, so it will start with that, then go to stand alone eventually)
Greddy spec II profec B boost controller (already have)
Engine overhaul gasket kit $?
Stock TN downpipe for now-3" midpipe - y into 2 3" N1 style mufflers (almost done)
Evolution wastegate (will I need just the bigger spring, or a whole new one to hold 18psi?
Also, if this is going to turn into flaming for not knowing how to build an engine yet, please lock this up, I'm trying to learn how, and figured why not start a thread so that others can learn too, and maybe we can even get some experienced builders to chime in.
Lets start with a used stock block and heads, First step is to get them resurfaced, I'm looking for no more than 550 HP (I have the TN kit so I know i it will be hard to reach that number). So I think I can stick with stock head bolts, maybe go with ARP, but def don't need 1/2".
Steps:
1. deck the block and heads, make sure they are structurally sound $?
Next step? Please, be as detailed as possible.
The only things i see wrong so far are the ems selection, the turbo kit selection, and the boost controller
. First of all DO NOT USE THE EMANAGE ULTIMATE! I do not have any personal experience w/ it but numerous people on this forum have bitched and moaned about this thing. The tune with the EU seems to be very inconsistent on this car and has been known to fry coilpacks. Secondly the TN kit is not a good candiate for a built motor setup. You really will not be able to reach the potential of you motor w/o maxing out the TN kit. From what i understand the kits design results in extreme amounts of heat being generated and inconsistent boost levels when you up the boost to >10psi. I would sell that kit and get a greddy TT kit (most proven kit IMO) or if you are hell bent on a single setup look into powerlabs new single turbo kit. Last thing is the boost controller. I was also looking at that same boost controller and some people said it was great and others said it was garbage. Personally i chose to go with the hks evc 6 and while it is one of the more expensive ones, everyone i have talked to says it is the most steady and easy to use boost controllers on the market.Oh and i presonally say go 9:1 compression and skip journaling the crankshaft (spend that money elsewhere
)Note: These are just my opinions that i have formed based on my own research so take it for what it's worth
Originally Posted by chris'smax
The only things i see wrong so far are the ems selection, the turbo kit selection, and the boost controller . First of all DO NOT USE THE EMANAGE ULTIMATE! I do not have any personal experience w/ it but numerous people on this forum have bitched and moaned about this thing. The tune with the EU seems to be very inconsistent on this car and has been known to fry coilpacks. Secondly the TN kit is not a good candiate for a built motor setup. You really will not be able to reach the potential of you motor w/o maxing out the TN kit. From what i understand the kits design results in extreme amounts of heat being generated and inconsistent boost levels when you up the boost to >10psi. I would sell that kit and get a greddy TT kit (most proven kit IMO) or if you are hell bent on a single setup look into powerlabs new single turbo kit. Last thing is the boost controller. I was also looking at that same boost controller and some people said it was great and others said it was garbage. Personally i chose to go with the hks evc 6 and while it is one of the more expensive ones, everyone i have talked to says it is the most steady and easy to use boost controllers on the market.
Oh and i presonally say go 9:1 compression and skip journaling the crankshaft (spend that money elsewhere)
Note: These are just my opinions that i have formed based on my own research so take it for what it's worth
. First of all DO NOT USE THE EMANAGE ULTIMATE! I do not have any personal experience w/ it but numerous people on this forum have bitched and moaned about this thing. The tune with the EU seems to be very inconsistent on this car and has been known to fry coilpacks. Secondly the TN kit is not a good candiate for a built motor setup. You really will not be able to reach the potential of you motor w/o maxing out the TN kit. From what i understand the kits design results in extreme amounts of heat being generated and inconsistent boost levels when you up the boost to >10psi. I would sell that kit and get a greddy TT kit (most proven kit IMO) or if you are hell bent on a single setup look into powerlabs new single turbo kit. Last thing is the boost controller. I was also looking at that same boost controller and some people said it was great and others said it was garbage. Personally i chose to go with the hks evc 6 and while it is one of the more expensive ones, everyone i have talked to says it is the most steady and easy to use boost controllers on the market.Oh and i presonally say go 9:1 compression and skip journaling the crankshaft (spend that money elsewhere
)Note: These are just my opinions that i have formed based on my own research so take it for what it's worth
Originally Posted by Chudson coupe
I can't really have too much down time on the car, I need to have a separate block to work on.
If I'm using stock cams, is there any point in upgrading the valve springs?
What is an Engine Girdle?
If I'm using stock cams, is there any point in upgrading the valve springs?
What is an Engine Girdle?
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I definitely understand what you are saying about the turbo set-up I have chosen. I originally went that route thinking that I only wanted 400hp, but the bug has caught me haha. My roomate's TT supra is now pushing 500 and I'm getting left behind. I'm focusing on the build now b/c I know thats what needs to be done to get over 400 safely. I may max out the TN, but since I already have it, I'm sticking with it at least until I have a built engine ready to go into the car. So if we could, lets please stay off the Turbo choice topic.
Didn't know about the issues with the Emanage Ultimate, I thought the problems were mostly experienced with the Blue. I may switch over to Utec( i know its preferred over the ultimate anyways)
I already have the boost controller, thats why I'm using it, if it doesn't perform well at 15 psi then I'll address that issue when I get there.
Regarding the compression, can anyone provide details as to when 8.6:1 is more desireable than 9:1 and vice versa? I have seen both, but don't know which application is better for my set up, Lower compression would be best for TN due to the hot intake temps I would think. Is this the only benefit?
Didn't know about the issues with the Emanage Ultimate, I thought the problems were mostly experienced with the Blue. I may switch over to Utec( i know its preferred over the ultimate anyways)
I already have the boost controller, thats why I'm using it, if it doesn't perform well at 15 psi then I'll address that issue when I get there.
Regarding the compression, can anyone provide details as to when 8.6:1 is more desireable than 9:1 and vice versa? I have seen both, but don't know which application is better for my set up, Lower compression would be best for TN due to the hot intake temps I would think. Is this the only benefit?
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I'm seeing all these different cams for sale. This is an area I really don't know much about. I was thinking about sticking with the stock cams only because I see a lot of built engines that still have them. But if there are some good deals (as I'm seeing now) I think I should check them out.
Does anyone have any experience with different cams when using the TN setup? Since it spools later than the twins, will a different cam setup help with that? and what are any other benefits?
Thanks
Does anyone have any experience with different cams when using the TN setup? Since it spools later than the twins, will a different cam setup help with that? and what are any other benefits?
Thanks
9:1 compression will give you better low-end torque.
8.6:1 will allow you to run higher boost pressures without knock.
I have a profec B spec II boost controller and it is rock solid. Given it's not the easiest to configure, but once you understand it; it works great. Holds 19psi on my 300zx TT with no problem. No spiking, no tapering off, steady boost all the way to redline.
I say keep TN kit and just upgrade turbo to GT37R, thats what Im going to do once i max out the 60-1 turbo. Im in the same situation as you just finished building my motor, sleeved, cams, the works...
as fas as engine management, I'd recommend skipping all the piggybacks and going with the Haltec. the UTEC works but it has no map tracing, therefore you have to do a pull, log it, make changes, and do another pull... process gets old very quick. You also need turboxs wideband (Tuner wideband) in order to log your air fuel ratio with UTEC. you can use a 3rd-party wideband like AEM and use other software like UTI to log both utec and wideband, but there are issues with synchronizing the utec and afr reading. Lastly, you'll spend just about as much buying the utec, accessories, and tuner wideband as you would buying haltec and a 3rd-party wideband.
8.6:1 will allow you to run higher boost pressures without knock.
I have a profec B spec II boost controller and it is rock solid. Given it's not the easiest to configure, but once you understand it; it works great. Holds 19psi on my 300zx TT with no problem. No spiking, no tapering off, steady boost all the way to redline.
I say keep TN kit and just upgrade turbo to GT37R, thats what Im going to do once i max out the 60-1 turbo.
Im in the same situation as you just finished building my motor, sleeved, cams, the works... as fas as engine management, I'd recommend skipping all the piggybacks and going with the Haltec. the UTEC works but it has no map tracing, therefore you have to do a pull, log it, make changes, and do another pull... process gets old very quick. You also need turboxs wideband (Tuner wideband) in order to log your air fuel ratio with UTEC. you can use a 3rd-party wideband like AEM and use other software like UTI to log both utec and wideband, but there are issues with synchronizing the utec and afr reading. Lastly, you'll spend just about as much buying the utec, accessories, and tuner wideband as you would buying haltec and a 3rd-party wideband.
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Thanks, I'll look into ems a little more once I actually have the engine finished, its going to take a while haha.
I have chosen a 9:1 compression ratio, I like torque.
Are there any problems with using a used crankshaft from a different block? As long as the bearings are new it shouldn't matter correct?
off topic, but how much difference will upgrading to a GT37R really make, I thought the limits of the TN kit were mostly do to the piping size from the headers to the turbo inlet.
I have chosen a 9:1 compression ratio, I like torque.
Are there any problems with using a used crankshaft from a different block? As long as the bearings are new it shouldn't matter correct?
off topic, but how much difference will upgrading to a GT37R really make, I thought the limits of the TN kit were mostly do to the piping size from the headers to the turbo inlet.
There shouldn't be a problem with using the used crank, provided you had your machine shop check it out first. As for the Tn kit don't waste your money upgrading the turbo. People have tried (taurran) the kit wasn't designed for the upgrade. You would be better off changing to another kit be it a TT or S/T.
There shouldn't be a problem with using the used crank, provided you had your machine shop check it out first. As for the Tn kit don't waste your money upgrading the turbo. People have tried (taurran) the kit wasn't designed for the upgrade. You would be better off changing to another kit be it a TT or S/T.
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