Engine Build thread
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From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Hey everyone, I've been throwing around the idea of getting a VQ35de out of a totaled car and taking the next year to build it up and then drop it in my G. I've built 1 rotary before a few years ago, but those are much more simple than the v6. Is there any kind of best practices thread for building an engine? If not, lets start one. My skills may not be the best, but its really something I want to try, and I know I will problably run into many problems and it won't be easy.
I don't want this to turn into an argument about which parts to use, I see these all the time, so lets go with them unless other parts are better hands down. I know I'm missing parts - what else is key?
arias pistons $?
eagle rods $?
HR head bolts $?
Stock crankshaft (maybe journaled?) price estimate?
Stock cams
I'm not sure about which bearings are best. $?
It will be boosted, so 9:1 or 8.6:1?
Stock headgasket. $?
650cc Deutch Works injectors (or 600 if they changed) $525
Walbro 255 fuel pump (i already have it)
AAM or CJM fuel return (do I really need this for 550 hp?) $1000
JWT Clutch and Flywheel (still tbd) $800
EMS (tbd, but i have an emanage ultimate (not blue) already, so it will start with that, then go to stand alone eventually)
Greddy spec II profec B boost controller (already have)
Engine overhaul gasket kit $?
Stock TN downpipe for now-3" midpipe - y into 2 3" N1 style mufflers (almost done)
Evolution wastegate (will I need just the bigger spring, or a whole new one to hold 18psi?
Also, if this is going to turn into flaming for not knowing how to build an engine yet, please lock this up, I'm trying to learn how, and figured why not start a thread so that others can learn too, and maybe we can even get some experienced builders to chime in.
Lets start with a used stock block and heads, First step is to get them resurfaced, I'm looking for no more than 550 HP (I have the TN kit so I know i it will be hard to reach that number). So I think I can stick with stock head bolts, maybe go with ARP, but def don't need 1/2".
Steps:
1. deck the block and heads, make sure they are structurally sound $?
Next step? Please, be as detailed as possible.
I don't want this to turn into an argument about which parts to use, I see these all the time, so lets go with them unless other parts are better hands down. I know I'm missing parts - what else is key?
arias pistons $?
eagle rods $?
HR head bolts $?
Stock crankshaft (maybe journaled?) price estimate?
Stock cams
I'm not sure about which bearings are best. $?
It will be boosted, so 9:1 or 8.6:1?
Stock headgasket. $?
650cc Deutch Works injectors (or 600 if they changed) $525
Walbro 255 fuel pump (i already have it)
AAM or CJM fuel return (do I really need this for 550 hp?) $1000
JWT Clutch and Flywheel (still tbd) $800
EMS (tbd, but i have an emanage ultimate (not blue) already, so it will start with that, then go to stand alone eventually)
Greddy spec II profec B boost controller (already have)
Engine overhaul gasket kit $?
Stock TN downpipe for now-3" midpipe - y into 2 3" N1 style mufflers (almost done)
Evolution wastegate (will I need just the bigger spring, or a whole new one to hold 18psi?
Also, if this is going to turn into flaming for not knowing how to build an engine yet, please lock this up, I'm trying to learn how, and figured why not start a thread so that others can learn too, and maybe we can even get some experienced builders to chime in.
Lets start with a used stock block and heads, First step is to get them resurfaced, I'm looking for no more than 550 HP (I have the TN kit so I know i it will be hard to reach that number). So I think I can stick with stock head bolts, maybe go with ARP, but def don't need 1/2".
Steps:
1. deck the block and heads, make sure they are structurally sound $?
Next step? Please, be as detailed as possible.
Last edited by Chudson coupe; Jun 6, 2008 at 06:18 PM.
Are you set on using the TN Kit? Like you said, it will be a little more difficult then other kits. You might want to look into a Greddy or APS TT setup, or maybe even a Powerlab kit.
I would start off with a used block, get it decked and checked, and make sure it is structurally sound.
This sounds like a good idea, and if you plan on taking the time to do it, do your homework at each phase and get what parts you think are best.
Good Luck!
I would start off with a used block, get it decked and checked, and make sure it is structurally sound.
This sounds like a good idea, and if you plan on taking the time to do it, do your homework at each phase and get what parts you think are best.
Good Luck!
Contact Sharif@forged or go to www.forgedperformance.com. They just built my block and im in the process of reassemblin it right now.
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From: Poughkeepsie, NY
I'm only stuck on the TN kit because I already have it. I do realize that if I had just waited, in the end the cost difference would have been minimal if I had gone with a twin set up. But I have the TN so I'm going to make the best of it.
I'm not building the engine in the car right now b/c its my DD, so I plan on getting a spare long block and building it over the next few months. I'm just getting started, so i'll add to the list of parts up top as I realize what i forgot or what people recommend. Thanks for the positive comments so far, and I will be contacting shops directly, I just wanted to get a thread started so I could get as much info as possible before I start buying parts.
p.s. finally got the a/c filled yesterday after having the kit installed for 3 months and being to lazy to go to the shop to fill it up. No leaks, so the double heat wrap was worth it.
I'm not building the engine in the car right now b/c its my DD, so I plan on getting a spare long block and building it over the next few months. I'm just getting started, so i'll add to the list of parts up top as I realize what i forgot or what people recommend. Thanks for the positive comments so far, and I will be contacting shops directly, I just wanted to get a thread started so I could get as much info as possible before I start buying parts.
p.s. finally got the a/c filled yesterday after having the kit installed for 3 months and being to lazy to go to the shop to fill it up. No leaks, so the double heat wrap was worth it.
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From: Poughkeepsie, NY
I've been thinking of it for a while, and after reading about other builds i'm really trying to put together everything i need and learn how to do it. I don't think I'll come in under the cost of just purchasing a built block from a shop, maybe about the same in parts, but I'm sure I'll spend many more hours putting it together.
I also want to start tagging estimated costs onto each part, so if I miss anything let me know if you have an idea of what it costs, i want to post accurate numbers, but i also wont let the cat out of the bag for the vendors offering good prices.
I also want to start tagging estimated costs onto each part, so if I miss anything let me know if you have an idea of what it costs, i want to post accurate numbers, but i also wont let the cat out of the bag for the vendors offering good prices.
The VQ takes more time to build than a 2JZ or something, but is not too difficult. Just take your time and double check everything.
When disassembling the stock motor, bag and label all the bolts. There are a lot of them - different sizes and lengths and they will get confusing quick if they are not labeled and you aren't familiar with building VQs.
When assembling: clean all surfaces thoroughly, clean them some more, and use a tq wrench on everything.
ps. though the stock head bolts look promising and have a lot of hype right now, they are still in the pioneer stage for forced induction use.
When disassembling the stock motor, bag and label all the bolts. There are a lot of them - different sizes and lengths and they will get confusing quick if they are not labeled and you aren't familiar with building VQs.
When assembling: clean all surfaces thoroughly, clean them some more, and use a tq wrench on everything.
ps. though the stock head bolts look promising and have a lot of hype right now, they are still in the pioneer stage for forced induction use.
Originally Posted by Hal@IP
The VQ takes more time to build than a 2JZ or something, but is not too difficult. Just take your time and double check everything.
When disassembling the stock motor, bag and label all the bolts. There are a lot of them - different sizes and lengths and they will get confusing quick if they are not labeled and you aren't familiar with building VQs.
When assembling: clean all surfaces thoroughly, clean them some more, and use a tq wrench on everything.
ps. though the stock head bolts look promising and have a lot of hype right now, they are still in the pioneer stage for forced induction use.
When disassembling the stock motor, bag and label all the bolts. There are a lot of them - different sizes and lengths and they will get confusing quick if they are not labeled and you aren't familiar with building VQs.
When assembling: clean all surfaces thoroughly, clean them some more, and use a tq wrench on everything.
ps. though the stock head bolts look promising and have a lot of hype right now, they are still in the pioneer stage for forced induction use.
Originally Posted by Hal@IP
The VQ takes more time to build than a 2JZ or something, but is not too difficult. Just take your time and double check everything.
When disassembling the stock motor, bag and label all the bolts. There are a lot of them - different sizes and lengths and they will get confusing quick if they are not labeled and you aren't familiar with building VQs.
When assembling: clean all surfaces thoroughly, clean them some more, and use a tq wrench on everything.
ps. though the stock head bolts look promising and have a lot of hype right now, they are still in the pioneer stage for forced induction use.
When disassembling the stock motor, bag and label all the bolts. There are a lot of them - different sizes and lengths and they will get confusing quick if they are not labeled and you aren't familiar with building VQs.
When assembling: clean all surfaces thoroughly, clean them some more, and use a tq wrench on everything.
ps. though the stock head bolts look promising and have a lot of hype right now, they are still in the pioneer stage for forced induction use.
+1, I never built an engine before and I assembled the long block myself. I just bought a built short block and heads and the rest was relatively easy if you are meticulous and organized
no leaks so far and I got the seal of approval from Hal last week, not too bad for a noob
Originally Posted by Blackbird CPV35
+1, I never built an engine before and I assembled the long block myself. I just bought a built short block and heads and the rest was relatively easy if you are meticulous and organized
no leaks so far and I got the seal of approval from Hal last week, not too bad for a noob
no leaks so far and I got the seal of approval from Hal last week, not too bad for a noob
Glad the rest of the assembly went smoothly.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Hmmm...that short-block sounds familiar.
Glad the rest of the assembly went smoothly.
Glad the rest of the assembly went smoothly.
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From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Ok, hopefully we can get this back on track a little. I'm still trying to get a long block, the one I thought I was getting was sold out from under me for $500 bucks, had everything on it too (a/c, alternator, and everything else). So if any builders have one sitting around the shop pm me please, that first one would have been a killer deal.
Also, any vendors or builders that see this thread, i would appreciate it greatly if you could pm me pricing on any of the items listed above, i wont post actual pricing or i could list you as a sponsor of my first build haha.
Anyways, once I find a new block hopefully we can get this thread moving again and have a step by step with pics for a build.
Also, any vendors or builders that see this thread, i would appreciate it greatly if you could pm me pricing on any of the items listed above, i wont post actual pricing or i could list you as a sponsor of my first build haha.
Anyways, once I find a new block hopefully we can get this thread moving again and have a step by step with pics for a build.
Originally Posted by Hal@IP
All the time - PM sent. 

THIS BUILT by Hal@Injectedperformance
Brain Crower Stage 3 272 In/Ex Camshafts
Nismo VTC Intake Cam Pulley
SuperTech 1mm oversize In/Ex valves
SuperTech Titanium retainer
SuperTech Dual Valve Spring
Carrillo Super A Beam Forged Rods
Mahle 96mm Forged Pistons
Darton Mid Sleeves
Injected Performance Engine Girdle
ARP L19 Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
Coswroth Main Bearings
Coswroth Rod Bearings
Nissan Rev-up Oil Pump
HKS Head Gasket
Extreme Ported Cylinder Head
Ported Intake Collector
Thread Starter
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From: Poughkeepsie, NY
I can't really have too much down time on the car, I need to have a separate block to work on.
If I'm using stock cams, is there any point in upgrading the valve springs?
What is an Engine Girdle?
If I'm using stock cams, is there any point in upgrading the valve springs?
What is an Engine Girdle?


