That twin fuel pump assembly you are talking about is from CJM. Get CJM fuel return system along with it. Also, for your clutch I recommend Carbonetics carbon twin clutch with 1350lbs pressure plate.

 

fast intentions makes a double walled exhaust that looks pretty much stock

 

What about the pistons? Should I go STD bore or 96mm? My engine only has 25,000 on it..30 by the time I take it apart. Also, ive been reading some good things about the spec twin disc for these cars..ive had good experiences with SPEC in the past with my Trans Ams...

 

I think you should go with the Stock Bore Pistons. There really isn't a need to go with oversized.

 

i would keep the bore as small as possible..... bigger bore is great for added power, but the thicker walls on a forced induction street car will be the better route here. If this was a drag car that only need to make 1/4 mile passes i could see the bigger bore being worth it, but for a street car, its not worth the extra 2-4% power that you would see for the slight bump in displacement. This is of course assuming that the block is in good shape, and doesn't need a bore to clean it up.

 

im hoping it will be!!..i havent added a single mod to the car. I see no point in doing it litle by little..ill do it all or most of it all at once.

 

Hello,

35R not 37R
CJM
Carbonetics Triple (althought Tilton triple owns)
HKS headgaskets(although you could get away with stock too)
OEM shifter (your syncros will thank you for it)
Stock bore pistons
BC Stage 1 cams (something mild)
Meth (optional)
ProEFI (shocking that I would say that right?) Have TurboTrix in NJ install it and tune

Everything else you said looks brilliant otherwise.

My 2 yen..

Darren

 

fixed



i got the b&M shifter, but as darren said, the stock one is good enough and possible better for longetivity. Unless your goals end up being 650+ then stick with gt35r (powerlab stg1 turbo kit). I personally lik ethe JIC St 3" exhaust if you like the single exit(supra?) look; otherwise some of the other suggestions like the aps exhaust would work well. Remember true dual exhaut would requier that you use/fab a reverse Y

 

Thanks Jorge
+1000 on JiC singles, especially full Ti (if you got the $$)
I grew up around JZA80 and FD's so single muffler exhausts have always embodied the JDM look..

D

 

I currently own an LS6 Fd and I love the exhaust on that car..however on this one (its only my personal opinion, not intended as an insult to anyone) I only like the stock "style" exhaust, no bent twin singles or any single for that matter. As for cams, are they really needed for 600? Im really trying to keep my set goal and not long overshoot like I did with my supra/rx7.

 

^ Fast Intentions 2.5" sounds like stock but slightly deeper and gets aggressive at WOT. Its a True Dual and its made in the US.

 

LS6 FD.. cheater

NO insult taken, it's preferential.

The power tends to fall off on top and a mild cam will allow it to keep going up after ~6k. Search for Julians (MRC) thread and you'll see dyno examples of this. I know where you're going with this though, not wanting to throw EVERYTHING at an engine build, sacrificing OE reliability, etc, but for your power goals a mild cam is recommended. Builders that tell you to do every little upgrade are deceiving you, trying to raise your rent, but overall the minimum correct parts for a specific goal, coupled by a very efficient turbo system (PowerLab) and an equally efficient ems and tuner is the key to success. I think you're on the right track overall, but as the cliche goes.. there's more than one way to skin a cat and even more cliche.. opinions are like a-holes.. everyone's got one.. ahah.. good luck.

Darrrren (doesn't blame you for ditching the 13b although we have a 20b here that makes 780whp @ 15psi )

 

I appreciate your opinion and will look into it. And tell Darrren im not scurrred

 

INTENSEPOWER is Darren

 

shows how new I am to the VQ arena. haha. Anyways, what about tanabe exhaust? I was told they sound amazing and heard a sound clip online and it sounded ok. I dont want anything "tinny" I cannot stand that sound. Reminds me of a honda with a can.

 

My recommendations are in brackets


-Powerlab gt35r ST full kit w/utec(possibly thinking of a 37r but it most likely wont be needed)
-Wiseco low comp pistons
-Eagle rods/L19 bolts
-ARP head/main studs
-New stock headgaskets (HKS, why cheap out on the gasket if you already have the heads off.)
-Cosworth engine bearings
-Not sure of the company but its got the twin fuel pumps in the bucket for 700$..that along with the aam? fuel return style system for 1000$
-Some sort of clutch(havent researched any yet)
-Some kind of catback exhaust that has the factory appearance
-Snow meth inj. kit
-Koyo radiator (PWR I've seen some high horsepower cars run this instead of the standard Koyo that everyone uses.)
-B&M short shifter

Check out SPEC twin plate clutches. Good price and I've seen it hold 600hp easy, yet still driveable.

I'd also recommend more cooling mods if you plan on this being a street/track car. I'd say:

Oil cooler
Breather tank (SGP Racing is doing a breather tank modification similar to the Pathfinder modification but without too many extra parts)
T-Stat (Think it's already been mentioned.)

+1000 on the HKS V-Pro

What size injectors are you planning on using?

Good luck man. Everything looks good.

 

Not a track car, only street. I might take it to the strip once or twice just to get an idea. I was looking at the spec twin plates and they are just about half the price of one of the other ones..and as mentioned before Ive always had good luck with them. I cant justify spending another 1000$ if my goal of 600hp can be met with that clutch. Also with injectors..again im new to the import stuff...im used to working in lbs not ccs...so im guessing 600ccs?(its what comes with the kit anyways) Ill have to check into the PWR radiator. Ill eventually throw up my "built post" showing it from start to finish. Ill be doing all the work minus the short block.

 

Not sure how hot it gets in your neck of the woods but I'd still recommend some cooling mods.

Couldn't agree more about SPEC clutches.

As for injectors, if 600cc injectors are provided they should be enough for your power goals, but I'm not 100% sure. If they are, they'd be at the upper most limits of their duty cycle.

 

I have read quite a few good things about the new Clutchmasters FX 600 & FX 700 very reasonable and high quality clutches. (Twin plate) See link below.
http://www.performanceautowerks.com/...oducts_id=1312
I believe the FX 600 is for street and the FX 700 is for track (perhaps more aggressive engagement).
Check it out.
Good Luck.

BTW, the L19 are head studs so don't buy 2 sets of head studs ARP 7 L19's.

 

they are also connecting rod bolts. I had a set of eagle rods with L19 bolts in them in my trans am.