FI and Oil
FI and Oil
there was a big ol thread about who used what kind and I can't find it. Can somebody link me? It was in a list format with names on the left side and weight+brand on the right. thanks.
also, 15-40 too thick? it's been pretty hot in socal (90+)... should I stick with 0-40? does superautobachs sell motul? any cheaper options?
also, 15-40 too thick? it's been pretty hot in socal (90+)... should I stick with 0-40? does superautobachs sell motul? any cheaper options?
If you want a cheaper alternative then Rotella T-Syn 5W40 is a good oil. Forget the overly hyped Motul (specifically the Motul 300V 5W40). Check oil analysis thread and Quadcam has at least 2 test Oil Analysis of the Rotella and the Rotella has far better result than the motul ( https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...s-info-18.html). I also have 2 oil analysis of the Mobile 0w40 but the iron is a little to high for my test so I'll be switching to Rotella on my next oil change. Mobile 0w40 still held pretty well so I have no problem using it again though...
MOTUL 300V series is used by more race teams than any oil on the planet. 300V is made for race cars. There is no hype involved with MOTUL eminating from MOTUL advertising only the internet hype that people expect it to perform the same in a daily driven car as it does in a race motor.
People believe oil analysis is scientific. Well it's not becasue the engine may be driven differently from one oil change to the other as well as experiencing different driving environments like temperature.
Motul has more moly than any other oil produced that I know of. Not to mention the esther base working for you.
People believe oil analysis is scientific. Well it's not becasue the engine may be driven differently from one oil change to the other as well as experiencing different driving environments like temperature.
Motul has more moly than any other oil produced that I know of. Not to mention the esther base working for you.
Last edited by JETPILOT; Aug 10, 2008 at 01:07 PM.
Originally Posted by JETPILOT
MOTUL 300V series is used by more race teams than any oil on the planet. 300V is made for race cars. There is no hype involved with MOTUL eminating from MOTUL advertising only the internet hype that people expect it to perform the same in a daily driven car as it does in a race motor.
People believe oil analysis is scientific. Well it's not becasue the engine may be driven differently from one oil change to the other as well as experiencing different driving environments like temperature.
Motul has more moly than any other oil produced that I know of. Not to mention the esther base working for you.
People believe oil analysis is scientific. Well it's not becasue the engine may be driven differently from one oil change to the other as well as experiencing different driving environments like temperature.
Motul has more moly than any other oil produced that I know of. Not to mention the esther base working for you.
We all know motul is a great race oil but there are many cheaper oil that can out perform it on a street driving condition. I'm just waiting for Resolute to chime in coz there is a difference between a full race and lots of stop and go and hot and cold start that a street car will go through. Oil analysis is very reliable since it tells you how the oil perform on your driving condition. Every one drive their car different so each and everyone should do their testing.
Originally Posted by JETPILOT
MOTUL 300V series is used by more race teams than any oil on the planet. 300V is made for race cars. There is no hype involved with MOTUL eminating from MOTUL advertising only the internet hype that people expect it to perform the same in a daily driven car as it does in a race motor.
People believe oil analysis is scientific. Well it's not becasue the engine may be driven differently from one oil change to the other as well as experiencing different driving environments like temperature.
Motul has more moly than any other oil produced that I know of. Not to mention the esther base working for you.
People believe oil analysis is scientific. Well it's not becasue the engine may be driven differently from one oil change to the other as well as experiencing different driving environments like temperature.
Motul has more moly than any other oil produced that I know of. Not to mention the esther base working for you.
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Originally Posted by thawk408
Just because its good on a racecar doesnt mean **** for the street. Iv used motul once and wasnt a big fan. I had more burnoff then with mobile 1.
Like I said ...not here to argue or defend one oil over the other.
Originally Posted by XKR
I am not here to argue your point..but I would like to know how you came to this conclusion considering the harsh conditions in racing cannot be duplicated on the street?
Like I said ...not here to argue or defend one oil over the other.
Like I said ...not here to argue or defend one oil over the other.
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...ysis-info.html
Here a post from Resolute
There is more but I'm still searching...lol
Originally Posted by Resolute
Even in summer afternoon, that cold start will wear simply because there is no oil pressure at that moment.
40 to 100 deg C is the SAE definition of operating temperature range, and this is why an oil's viscosity index is based on these two temperatures. Below this, an oil does have lubricity, but it is not designed to operate as such. Hence the cold viscosity is measured in terms of resistance (centipoise) rather than flow (centistrokes).
Ester based oils are known to maintain film strength without pressure, and as such should be good for cold-start protection. They are also more stable in the presence of extreme heat, and as such are used for racing. However, they are prone for other issues such as ester hydrolysis, hydrolytic instability, and seal compatibility issues (esp. nitrile). So, it's a wash at best.
I want to clarify that my post earlier was to simply state that a thicker oil usually has a higher film strength, and therefore withstands stress and heat better than a thinner one. However, this is not always the case, since it's possible that the oil's chemistry can make a lighter grade of oil perform just as well as a thicker one in extreme stress and heat. The example I mentioned earlier about bio-based base stocks verses esters, I should have said the bio-base lubes were a lower grade, which helped improve efficiency and reduce pumping losses while maintaining the same or better level of protection than an ester. So, don't be in such a hurry to buy a xW-60 weight oil, when a good xW-40 may be just as good. If you're FI, do a UOA if you really want to know what works the best for your engine.
As far as Motul oils and the UOA's. I have not seen anything to justify the cost, as QuadCam has said, but there's opbviously nothing wrong with using their oil. Those who've used it and switched to an oil with better average results, also saw better results themselves. The main benefit of an ester based oil like Motul, is for racing, where the shear stability of the esters in extreme heat (like the turbo center section) are of utmost importance. The ability to start-up every day and drive to work is another matter. While it won't damage your engine, and the higher UOA results are not anything catastrophic, spending so much for an oil to use it outside of it's best application is a personal call of what one really wants to spend money on. But there is nothing to say it's superior, or even as good as, a less expensive G3 oil for many applications, as my example from the lubes n' greases article was meant to state.Will
40 to 100 deg C is the SAE definition of operating temperature range, and this is why an oil's viscosity index is based on these two temperatures. Below this, an oil does have lubricity, but it is not designed to operate as such. Hence the cold viscosity is measured in terms of resistance (centipoise) rather than flow (centistrokes).
Ester based oils are known to maintain film strength without pressure, and as such should be good for cold-start protection. They are also more stable in the presence of extreme heat, and as such are used for racing. However, they are prone for other issues such as ester hydrolysis, hydrolytic instability, and seal compatibility issues (esp. nitrile). So, it's a wash at best.
I want to clarify that my post earlier was to simply state that a thicker oil usually has a higher film strength, and therefore withstands stress and heat better than a thinner one. However, this is not always the case, since it's possible that the oil's chemistry can make a lighter grade of oil perform just as well as a thicker one in extreme stress and heat. The example I mentioned earlier about bio-based base stocks verses esters, I should have said the bio-base lubes were a lower grade, which helped improve efficiency and reduce pumping losses while maintaining the same or better level of protection than an ester. So, don't be in such a hurry to buy a xW-60 weight oil, when a good xW-40 may be just as good. If you're FI, do a UOA if you really want to know what works the best for your engine.
As far as Motul oils and the UOA's. I have not seen anything to justify the cost, as QuadCam has said, but there's opbviously nothing wrong with using their oil. Those who've used it and switched to an oil with better average results, also saw better results themselves. The main benefit of an ester based oil like Motul, is for racing, where the shear stability of the esters in extreme heat (like the turbo center section) are of utmost importance. The ability to start-up every day and drive to work is another matter. While it won't damage your engine, and the higher UOA results are not anything catastrophic, spending so much for an oil to use it outside of it's best application is a personal call of what one really wants to spend money on. But there is nothing to say it's superior, or even as good as, a less expensive G3 oil for many applications, as my example from the lubes n' greases article was meant to state.Will
There is more but I'm still searching...lol
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Originally Posted by thawk408
I believe I remember reading about it in this thread...
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...ysis-info.html
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...ysis-info.html
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Originally Posted by athenG
Here a post from Resolute
There is more but I'm still searching...lol
There is more but I'm still searching...lol
Originally Posted by XKR
So thawk statement is correct
No doubt I think it will protect, but dont see the advantage to some of the cheaper alternatives just because its "used in racecars". Some parts from racecars work awesome on the street and have added benefit, while others should be left on a racecar.
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Originally Posted by thawk408
No doubt I think it will protect, but dont see the advantage to some of the cheaper alternatives just because its "used in racecars". Some parts from racecars work awesome on the street and have added benefit, while others should be left on a racecar.
I agree