Hey whats up gentlemen!

Im slowly piecing together parts for my build. I only have a block and pauter rods so far but im working on the rest!

The main components of the build constists of: sleeved block, arias ed pistons/pauter rods with the haltech platinum. Im debating wether to swap the cams although I remember zivman had some good results with stock cams I believe...

Couple questions:

What is the power potential of this build with the APS turbos, considering with the 100mm overbore pistons I will have roughly 3.8L of displacement.

What power will stock axles support?

Roughly what power level will these 650cc injectors max out?

Cam recommendations?


Thanks for any help!

 

Ill give you my opinion, If I was going to build my motor tomorrow:

Arias Extreme Duty Pistons
GTM Rods or Eagle rods (9.0:1CR) (GTM are lighter, eagles are cheaper, you choose)
GT-R Head Studs
GT-R Head Gaskets
GTM Stg 3 cams ( I love how they sound, go Stg2 if you want a sleeper - Skip cams if money is an issue)
ARP Hardware for bottom end

Thats pretty much it keep it around 500-550rwhp to ensure reliability/longevity.

Good luck,

-George

 

Hey whats up George thanks for the reply, GT-R headstuds and Gaskets? You mean the OEM Nissan GTR correct? Interesting, would you recommend those over APR L19 headstuds and the HKS Headgasket? As that was my original plan.

I already have pauter rods so I'll stick with those hehe...

BTW another question, crank strength? How much power will that beast hold?

 

Yes I would recommend those over anything else correctly available, do you have a DE or HR motor? (forgot what year your car is)

Pauters are heavy, and expensive - you can keep them, just letting you know why I recommended the others.

Crank strength won't be an issue, you won't be able to go much past 600rwhp with race fuel on the standard APS kit anyway.

 

De, any reason why you recommend the GTR head studs/gasket over any other aftermarket product? Are they stronger or just more cost effective? Im looking to build this motor the right way so in the future if I want more power (ie. larger turbos) I wont need to tear it down again lol..

 

Stock head studs are Torque-To-Yield (TTY) therefore, they do not need to be re-torqued after they are installed, so a stock head stud will give you better clamping over time than any other after market stud, since they are not TTY.

After market head studs will be made out of a stronger material, but they are designed for high horsepower application/racing - not to last 100k miles, which OEM studs are designed to do.

Now if everyone re-torqued their head studs after a few thousand miles on a freshly built engine, that would help no doubt, but it is not done because of the amount of labor involved just to re-torque the studs makes it not worth it.

I have a feeling GT-R head gaskets are going to be better than what the after market currently has to offer based on the same logic used above, although I do not have any evidence to base this off, except the GT-R itself.

Just my personal opinions.

 

Ah... any idea the torque specs for the studs? I will wait for a guinea pig to do the headgasket haha...

 

Well every other gasket on the market as failed due to one reason or another, so it wouldn't hurt to try something new, that and I believe they will be better.

Good luck,

-George

 

Read this for more info on TTY:

http://www.engineproblem.com.au/torque.htm

 

Hey George

Curious since I been actually looking into this and have touched on some of the stuff that you speaking about.

I seen people post about the HR headgasket and studs on the DE motor with minor modification for better cooling.

I have yet to hear anyone comparing headgasket and studs from the GTR motor if its even compatible with the DE engine.

You have info that you can clarify on that?

 

No, but if I was building an engine right now, I would spend the money on GTR gaskets and see if they can be modified to work, which I am pretty sure they can.

There is no reason why the studs wouldn't work, even if the block requires machining for installation, still worth it.

-George

 

Thanks George I'll keep my eyes peeled and my ear to the ground see if some one goes down that road definitely sounds interesting.

 

Don't sleeve it.. People with sleeves seem to have more problems than good...
Just keep your stock cylinders and use 96mm (0.02 overbore) extreme duty pistons (GTM has both Arias and Wiseco extreme duty pistons).

Why would you spend so much money on the rods? Eagles rods are awesome! Cheap, light, strong... Can't beat that. I have them and can't complain.

I do have L19 studs with HKS head gaskets and I don't have any issues with them so far ( I boost up to 16psi on a daily basis).. but there were many debates about using stock TTY head bolts and seems like builders are liking the cheaper alternative...

I have the GTM stage 2 cams (272s) and it does drive and feel like stock.. Very smooth idle... I think this cam does shift the power band to the right, so the max boost will come just a bit slower than before... This might be tuning related, but that's what I'm seeing right now... 16psi at 4200rpm..

Last thing I want to tell you is that even though you are getting the top quality parts, putting together is the most important part. Don't just go to any engine shop, make sure they put together VQ engines before...

 

Well, just because they haven't put one together doesn't mean they can't do it. Just make sure you trust them and they aren't shady. My engine builder in wallingford,ct is the only place id ever go. They are going to be rebuilding my engine and Im not sure if they've done one..but theyve done 3 previous motors and they all come out perfect.

 

I also would not sleeve it. I haven't heard of anyone needing sleeves at that HP output. I have heard of some problems with doing them, but I don't remember the details. I'd recommend some cams, since you're getting everything else. They should help and won't be very expensive.

What are you doing for exhaust, pipes, EMS, transmission?

 

Ehhhh im not a big fan of the open deck, I really dont want to tear my block down in the future and sleeve it, it wont be cost effective. I want to build it right the first time for high power. Ill find a good machine shop no worries

I appreciate the feedback!

 

George,

Any reason you'd go with 9 as opposed to 8:1? 8 would allow more boost and keep cyl pressure's down.

Ron

 

This is true but why go that low if most setup don't even go past 20psi? I know in my Honda days we go very low but because we had to boost real high to reach our power goal. Most TT kit here just boost around 16-18psi so is there really a benefit going 8:1 vs 9:1?

 

Because of the kit he is running, most people here go 8.5:1 or 9.0:1 very few go 8, and if they do I hope they are running a lot of boost.

9.0:1 will allow him to get the most out of his standard APS TT kit, cylinder pressures won't be a problem as long as its tuned correctly.

-George

 

I haven't seen a GTR gasket. Similar to HR? Anyone with a link?