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Forced Induction Turbochargers and Superchargers..Got Boost?

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Old 09-25-2008, 01:15 PM
  #41  
rcdash
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Hmmm, that's interesting, maybe I've been blaming my stock widebands for being crappy compared to my TXS tuner reg wideband when I could've just adjusted the calibration table. Well they're both spot on between 13-15 which is where I need it anyway.

Anyway, Hal can you confirm the O2 correction % actually comes through with the latest firmware (the one I'm running w/ the G35 CAN fix)?

Thanks in advance!
Old 09-25-2008, 01:57 PM
  #42  
Dynosty
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^ yes, I had a G35 with new firmware on the dyno today and it was working.
Old 09-25-2008, 05:25 PM
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Can an exhaust leak cause symptoms like that? Also what plugs do you use and what do you gap them to?
Old 09-25-2008, 05:49 PM
  #44  
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I wonder if the fact that my sensor is last in line behind the 2 rear 02s...
Old 09-25-2008, 08:39 PM
  #45  
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Ok Hal maybe you can help me out with this one. I have DW 850cc injectors..someone pointed out to me that my dead time chart was out of whack. It was set to 8,9,10,11, and 12. I changed it to the correct range I used 9,12,13,14,and 15..however now at 9 the IDT is .815 and 12-15 are all set at 4.50...do you have the numbers for the rest of the volt range?Maybe thats part of the reason everything is out of whack.

Also this weekend im going to go through the whole kit again and check for leaks. Also, right now the wideband is in the downpipe behind the front o2 sensor, and both rear 02s..maybe that has something to do with it not reading dead on...so im going to move it to the spot where the factory front o2 goes(in the PL kit it goes in the downpipe about 2.5 feet from the exhaust housing) and ill put the stock sensor right behind that one...or maybe lower since those dont matter anymore.
Old 09-26-2008, 05:45 AM
  #46  
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Exhaust leaks can cause the o2 sensor to read leaner than it actually is (as air can enter/escape).

To get the exact injector dead time you would have to contact DW or if they can't supply it, mail off an injector for testing. The ones you have are for the factory injectors. You can try something like 4.7 @ 12, 4.0 @ 15. The key here is get the car stable and go from the least electrical load to greatest electrical load and you want your AF to remain stable.

Regarding o2 correction, turn your max map up to 100kpa/15psi and see if it comes on then. We may have to adjust something on your map.
Old 09-26-2008, 06:49 AM
  #47  
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Ok I emailed Mike at DW for the info on the injectors..hopefully he will reply. So dead time is injector specific not car specific..

Now with the exhaust leak issue..that does make sense however..when the AFs go up to 17-18(when it gets hot)..the car starts running like garbage..and as soon as I add fuel to that cell and it goes back down to 14.5-15 the car smooths right out..and then if I leave that much fuel in that cel and start the car in the morining the afr goes to 12-12.5 until I take the fuel away. I just dont understand what would cause my car to need MORE fuel when its hot and less when its cold...
Old 09-26-2008, 08:27 AM
  #48  
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Correct, injector dead time is injector specific.

Sounds like your correction tables are out of wack. Have you monitored your air temp and coolant temp channels to make sure they are acting normal?
Old 09-26-2008, 08:46 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Hal@IP
Correct, injector dead time is injector specific.

Sounds like your correction tables are out of wack. Have you monitored your air temp and coolant temp channels to make sure they are acting normal?

Yes, I have CT,AT,MAP, and AFR being displayed at all times..and nothing is out of the ordinary...I know that lean conditions can be caused from over heating but my car gets up to maybe 205* and while driving it drops back down in the high 180s low 190s. ATC is at 0% from 72* and up at idle. Ill play around with that more once I figure out why my CTC table needs to be backwords in order to work. One thing im going to do as mentioned is move the wideband up further in the pipes to see if that will help make a difference and im going to check all the vbands for leaks. As soon as the car goes into boost the AFR steadies out(its actually rough but follows the rough boost curve)..im going to check into that as well.

Im supposed to have the .3bar spring in my wastegate...however with the exhaust cutout closed(going through the stock exhaust) the boost hovers around 6-6.5..and with it uncapped it hits 7.5-ish..so im thinking I have that spring in there and maybe all the restriction from the exhaust is causing the boost to jump around like it does from all the back pressure the stock resonator/exhaust cause. I have a .3 bar spring that I purchased so if thats not the one in there ill just swap them and see if theres a difference...and if that solves the boost issue ill just bump the boost back up to 6.5 where it stays at now anyways.

Last edited by SnyperZ; 09-26-2008 at 08:48 AM.
Old 09-26-2008, 10:17 AM
  #50  
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Just got the numbers from DW..and they were WAY off. I wonder if that has anything to do with the reverse tables..Just for sh*ts I changed the 14v value..and normally it took 94% fuel in the idle table to get 14.7 afr..which seemed high...as soon as I put the right voltage in thr afr went right down to 9.8..which means I might of solved one of the huge problems haha.
Old 09-26-2008, 11:37 AM
  #51  
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....I think problem solved...
Old 09-26-2008, 11:39 AM
  #52  
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Ok I entered in the correct dead times..and upon doing so I had to cut the entire fuel chart down by around 50%..now my car is starting to act right...as it gets hotter its getting richer(thank GOD) and I made a rough map and now its starting to look like its supposed to....still too early to tell on the temp correction..but its acting completely different. =)


oh also..right around idle...instead of needed 90+% at idle and going up from there..idle is now around 32%..which seems like a much better number...this might of solved all the issues...ill know when I get out of work.

Last edited by SnyperZ; 09-26-2008 at 11:41 AM.
Old 09-26-2008, 11:42 AM
  #53  
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Post up the values you received from DW
Old 09-26-2008, 01:34 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Hal@IP
Post up the values you received from DW
ok. give me a few.


oh yeah..I set the o2 correction from 0.0 to 14.5psi like you said and now the o2 correction is working...strange..but it works..
Old 09-26-2008, 01:50 PM
  #55  
Audible Mayhem
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car should start up a little rich and then slowly lean out to 14.7 once it gets hot. you have it backwards. deatschwerks injectors are some of the easiest injectors to tune and set up. they shouldnt be far off of factory settings. i think you should start over and try not to change a lot of items. haltechs are very tuner friendly and all my haltech cars run perfectly. from start to end....


turn off the o2 correction for any tuning purposes. it will change it and you wont put in the correct values. use the o2 correction to make the car run perfectly on top of the tune.
Old 09-26-2008, 04:00 PM
  #56  
rcdash
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Originally Posted by Audible Mayhem
car should start up a little rich and then slowly lean out to 14.7 once it gets hot. you have it backwards. ...
I think he just meant his air and coolant temp compensation tables seemed to be backwards in order to get the correct AFRs.

Glad you got it nailed down Mark. Haltech rocks for sure. One of the best bang for the buck products available for this platform. That said, Hal, you take the cake bud. Kudos for helping out a DIYer. Not many tuners/shops would go to all the extra effort after the sale for a single person. You seem to do it for everyone/anyone that needs help.

EDIT: And O2 correction working for me also now for sure - I can see O2 correction values with max map at 10 psi.

Last edited by rcdash; 09-26-2008 at 04:10 PM.
Old 09-26-2008, 05:38 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Audible Mayhem
car should start up a little rich and then slowly lean out to 14.7 once it gets hot. you have it backwards. deatschwerks injectors are some of the easiest injectors to tune and set up. they shouldnt be far off of factory settings. i think you should start over and try not to change a lot of items. haltechs are very tuner friendly and all my haltech cars run perfectly. from start to end....


turn off the o2 correction for any tuning purposes. it will change it and you wont put in the correct values. use the o2 correction to make the car run perfectly on top of the tune.
Ok then maybe thats the issue...so I should start out with the coolant correction in the negatives when the engine is cold and work my way up adding fuel as the engine gets warmer? Because even now..everything is 1000 times better(the DWs dead time were way off from the stockers) however..it still goes really lean as it gets up in the 200* range... also I noticed that my volts go down to around 13.2-13.4 when the engine gets really hot..is this normal?

Last edited by SnyperZ; 09-26-2008 at 05:42 PM.
Old 09-26-2008, 05:39 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by rcdash
That said, Hal, you take the cake bud. Kudos for helping out a DIYer. Not many tuners/shops would go to all the extra effort after the sale for a single person. You seem to do it for everyone/anyone that needs help.

yeah I agree....you help me out more than you have to..im very happy I went with this setup.
Old 09-26-2008, 07:07 PM
  #59  
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I have never had coolant corrections going negative to positive as the car goes from cold to warm, on any car/standalone I can think of.. weird. Do this, add a "list display" and add all of the correction channels (you can use search at the top and type 'corr' to show them). See if there are any others influencing the tune. And like Jeremy said, do your tuning with o2 feedback off.
Old 09-26-2008, 07:18 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Hal@IP
I have never had coolant corrections going negative to positive as the car goes from cold to warm, on any car/standalone I can think of.. weird. Do this, add a "list display" and add all of the correction channels (you can use search at the top and type 'corr' to show them). See if there are any others influencing the tune. And like Jeremy said, do your tuning with o2 feedback off.
OK. I was doing it with feedback on..and just changing until the corrections were getting less and less..the entire rpm range is within +-5% all the way up to boost..expect idle. I do have a question though..could my unhooked PVC pipe have anything to do with the boost fluctuation? When I put the kit in theres no intake pipe to hook the pvc up to..and they told me just to leave it open...however im pulling 18.5-20hg at idle so I dunno...??




Also, can the low voltage(13.2 at idle when hot)cause this issue too?.. If I let the car get all the way up to 205* it runs lean..then what ill do it drive down the highway for 10 min..pull over and I can slowly watch the o2 correction number go from -2,-3 and slowly start climing into the positive number until it goes all the way up to around 20 sometimes higher..

Last edited by SnyperZ; 09-26-2008 at 07:24 PM.


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