what upgrade can I do to prevent my car from fish tailing
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Originally Posted by 3FIDDYZED
You could try one of these http://www.racelogic.co.uk/?show=Traction_Control tried, tested and developed on the Zed...
Also you dont the GT-Spec bracing? This has been known to help...
Also you dont the GT-Spec bracing? This has been known to help...
Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
what width are the tires you are running and what brand, type of tires that said car is fish tailing on??
-j
-j
19X 10.5 rear with YOKOHAMA Advan Sport.
new Michiline Pilot PS2 in on oreder with new rims.
This is what I am running on my G35 in order to prevent massive wheel sping/fish tailing when excess of 600rwhp.
1) Camber in rear set around -1 degree or less, you will sacrifice a little bit of handling but your traction will improve, maybe -0.5 a degree to get the most out of your tires. A good alignment is very important.
2) DOT Approved R-Compounds are the best bet for high horsepower street cars. Go down to an 18" and run some Toyo R888s or Nitto NT-01, I beleive the R888 is available in a 19" wheel as well but the 18's will do a bit better. I am running a 305 Toyo RA-1 in the rear of my G on my 18' Enkeis.
3) LSD - Quafie is going to be the best for a street car, ATS/Carbonetic and Cusco are also good, just are going to be a little anoying during turns at low speeds (tires chirp because they lock up)
Lastly, a nice audio setup in the trunk will add some weight in the rear for better traction, handling will decrease, and so will your acceleration, but you will hardly notice the difference with over 550rwhp. ( I am by no means recommending this as an upgrade, but if you were going to do it anyways it wouldn't hurt with traction.
Good luck!
-George
1) Camber in rear set around -1 degree or less, you will sacrifice a little bit of handling but your traction will improve, maybe -0.5 a degree to get the most out of your tires. A good alignment is very important.
2) DOT Approved R-Compounds are the best bet for high horsepower street cars. Go down to an 18" and run some Toyo R888s or Nitto NT-01, I beleive the R888 is available in a 19" wheel as well but the 18's will do a bit better. I am running a 305 Toyo RA-1 in the rear of my G on my 18' Enkeis.
3) LSD - Quafie is going to be the best for a street car, ATS/Carbonetic and Cusco are also good, just are going to be a little anoying during turns at low speeds (tires chirp because they lock up)
Lastly, a nice audio setup in the trunk will add some weight in the rear for better traction, handling will decrease, and so will your acceleration, but you will hardly notice the difference with over 550rwhp. ( I am by no means recommending this as an upgrade, but if you were going to do it anyways it wouldn't hurt with traction.
Good luck!
-George
Last edited by GTM; Sep 18, 2008 at 02:50 PM.
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From: Texas, Arizona,Cayman Island
Originally Posted by THE ROADSTER
19X 10.5 rear with YOKOHAMA Advan Sport.
new Michiline Pilot PS2 in on oreder with new rims.
new Michiline Pilot PS2 in on oreder with new rims.
Thats what I use....305-25-20 Advan Sport....I dont have a problem with them....I guess the fact that I am using LSD does not hurt
I used the PS2 before going to the Advans....I like the Advan more.
Last edited by XKR; Sep 18, 2008 at 03:05 PM.
What are your alignment specs? That would be the first thing I would check. Could just be that your toe is out of spec. EDIT: oops - I see George has already mentioned it. I would definitely do that first and work from there. I have a carbonetics LSD, PS2 summer tires, toe within spec, and -2.3 camber and my rear end will swing out to the right when I punch it (depending on the surface)... I don't think the LSD will solve your problem entirely. I'm putting on SPL A arms on the front so I can correct camber all around as George mentions above. Before you start adding on aftermarket traction control, consider that the Haltech can also cut boost based on wheelspin - I just turned this feature on after a scare on the streets and it works though I've got to fine tune it still... Next step is to pull timing on a wheelspin vs. lateral-G map.
Last edited by rcdash; Sep 18, 2008 at 05:12 PM.
Originally Posted by iflyjets86
driving skills, take a driving course
lol - always wanted to post that. seriously that is about as helpful as telling him not to drive the car... Trust me when I say that you have very little opportunity to employ "skills", regardless of how well developed or fine tuned, when you punch the throttle in low gear with 500+ to the wheels.
Last edited by rcdash; Sep 18, 2008 at 04:53 PM.
Originally Posted by rcdash
lol - always wanted to post that. seriously that is about as helpful as telling him not to drive the car... Trust me when I say that you have very little opportunity to employ "skills", regardless of how well developed or fine tuned, when you punch the throttle in low gear with 500+ to the wheels.
I'm not saying I have the skill, but if other 500+whp guys can do it, I'm sure this guy can. Seems like he just needs to gain experience in throttle control. Take it easy and slowly increase how hard you push the car. sooner or later you'll be able to take the training wheels off and you'll be the next DK lol....or not
Throttle control is key. You cant mash it like you do on a stock block or NA.
Once you realize where the fine line of traction and slip is, you can practive staying there in 1st and 2nd gear runs. Eventually you will take your 500+whp car out in 40 degree winter days and dance down the highway in 3rd for fun. Like anything, practice, practice, and more practice. Also, when it starts to spin, dont let off all the way, the car will ***** you. Let off slowly, as soon as you regain traction your good to go.
Once you realize where the fine line of traction and slip is, you can practive staying there in 1st and 2nd gear runs. Eventually you will take your 500+whp car out in 40 degree winter days and dance down the highway in 3rd for fun. Like anything, practice, practice, and more practice. Also, when it starts to spin, dont let off all the way, the car will ***** you. Let off slowly, as soon as you regain traction your good to go.
Originally Posted by Alberto
S T O C K
It's been good to me
It's been good to me
-1 rear camber, 295/35 KDW's
In low boost (604whp now) it hooks half the time WOT in 2nd. The other half it needs a little peddling and its still moving quick. Going from -2.2 ---> -1 was a huge difference.
In low boost (604whp now) it hooks half the time WOT in 2nd. The other half it needs a little peddling and its still moving quick. Going from -2.2 ---> -1 was a huge difference.
