removing vortech. some questions
I was looking around and removing the vortech and UTEC with sensor seems fairly simple.
1) I notice a lot of tees running a boost/ vac line from the map sensor to the UTEC, can this be removed by just taking out the sensor line and making the t connector a straight though connection?
2) For the oil line into and out of the blower, can this be undone by simply plugging the tap from the upper oil pan and removing the blower and oil feed lines. If so whats best solution for plugging.
3) Also after removing the cog pulley and unplugging the Utec i notice my A/F was very rich. Im assuming the cars comp needs a little time to adjust?
Thanks for help.
Seems like it maybe as simple as removing a bunch of bolts, pulleys, brackets and plugging a few lines. Just dont want to take off a t fitting and find out that was supposed to be re routed.
1) I notice a lot of tees running a boost/ vac line from the map sensor to the UTEC, can this be removed by just taking out the sensor line and making the t connector a straight though connection?
2) For the oil line into and out of the blower, can this be undone by simply plugging the tap from the upper oil pan and removing the blower and oil feed lines. If so whats best solution for plugging.
3) Also after removing the cog pulley and unplugging the Utec i notice my A/F was very rich. Im assuming the cars comp needs a little time to adjust?
Thanks for help.
Seems like it maybe as simple as removing a bunch of bolts, pulleys, brackets and plugging a few lines. Just dont want to take off a t fitting and find out that was supposed to be re routed.
I was looking around and removing the vortech and UTEC with sensor seems fairly simple.
1) I notice a lot of tees running a boost/ vac line from the map sensor to the UTEC, can this be removed by just taking out the sensor line and making the t connector a straight though connection?
1) I notice a lot of tees running a boost/ vac line from the map sensor to the UTEC, can this be removed by just taking out the sensor line and making the t connector a straight though connection?
2) For the oil line into and out of the blower, can this be undone by simply plugging the tap from the upper oil pan and removing the blower and oil feed lines. If so whats best solution for plugging.
3) Also after removing the cog pulley and unplugging the Utec i notice my A/F was very rich. Im assuming the cars comp needs a little time to adjust?
Almost done. Just got to plug the tapped oil pan. Any suggestions i might be able to avoid getting it welded? Right now i have the blower still attached just fastened to the frame with an inlet and an outlet oil lines.
I noticed there is a vac line that comes out of the left front top of plenum. This was T'ed into the MAP sensor for my utec and my boost gauge. Where does this line run normally? It shouldnt be just an open tube that sucks air....
Any major concerns i should have or watch out for? Car seems to run fine rolling the neiborhood except my A/F seems to go real rich on occasion, assuming because the 440 injectors. Any thoughts?
I noticed there is a vac line that comes out of the left front top of plenum. This was T'ed into the MAP sensor for my utec and my boost gauge. Where does this line run normally? It shouldnt be just an open tube that sucks air....
Any major concerns i should have or watch out for? Car seems to run fine rolling the neiborhood except my A/F seems to go real rich on occasion, assuming because the 440 injectors. Any thoughts?
Last edited by cheatthe1; Nov 18, 2008 at 11:17 PM.
Ok, last time - put the stock injectors back in, that's why you are running rich. If you don't tune for the 440's you'll wash the cylinders, foul out your plugs, etc. Not good.
If the vacume line goes nowhere else, then cap it off. Never leave a vacume line just danging open.
Again, weld a plate over the hole for optimal results on the oil pan. Otherwise, find a plug with the same NPT threads on it and screw that into the pan and use some tread lock or thread sealer to prevent leaks.
If the vacume line goes nowhere else, then cap it off. Never leave a vacume line just danging open.
Again, weld a plate over the hole for optimal results on the oil pan. Otherwise, find a plug with the same NPT threads on it and screw that into the pan and use some tread lock or thread sealer to prevent leaks.
So, i plan to get new injectors but for now i have plugged the UTEC back in. Idle and low rpm seems much better, dont plan to push the car at all for right now.
I managed to re route the oil drain line back around to the oil inlet where the T fitting and sensor are located (by the oil filter). Only problem that has me concerned right now is my oil pressure seems very low. I have check and rechecked after letting things warm up and the pressure rests around 15psi. I assume this is from the way i have that hose routed... I do plan to plug it, but since i cant weld today, wondering if this is an unsafe driving condition. The pressure climbs about normal when i under throttle, just is a fair bit lower than normal (around 25-30psi after warm).
Thanks
I managed to re route the oil drain line back around to the oil inlet where the T fitting and sensor are located (by the oil filter). Only problem that has me concerned right now is my oil pressure seems very low. I have check and rechecked after letting things warm up and the pressure rests around 15psi. I assume this is from the way i have that hose routed... I do plan to plug it, but since i cant weld today, wondering if this is an unsafe driving condition. The pressure climbs about normal when i under throttle, just is a fair bit lower than normal (around 25-30psi after warm).
Thanks
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That's not a good idea, you're effectively draining and refilling your oil pain for no reason what-so-ever. Basically pulling oil out of the system and away from the oil pump.
That'll probably froth up the oil and create other issues and is certainly causing your low oil pressure.
Best idea, put everything back on the car and don't remove it until you can completely remove and put everything back to stock. If you do it half assed you're going to have mixed results and run into issues.
That'll probably froth up the oil and create other issues and is certainly causing your low oil pressure.
Best idea, put everything back on the car and don't remove it until you can completely remove and put everything back to stock. If you do it half assed you're going to have mixed results and run into issues.
so, i managed to get a better system for plugging. Hopefully overkilled the problem by capping both sides with a metal oil and gas resistant sealant. Also covered both ends with a vacuum plug type rubber cap secured on with a screw tightened clamp. 1st test idle and mild revving resulted in small leak from the side with the smaller vacuum plug, i resealed and double layered with a much thicker wall plug. Re tested and everything seems to be better revving rpm to get oil pressure up to over 90 with no problems. Let everything heat up and repeated no problems. Re applied sealer very thoroughly and now letting dry.
Just get the new injectors swapped and should be golden.
Just get the new injectors swapped and should be golden.
back to stock injectors. all major issues resolved.
Last question, i have new spark plugs back to stock since vortech goes with 1 step colder. I dont have the right extension for the spark plugs tonight. Will it be ok to run the coler spark plugs for day or two?
Last question, i have new spark plugs back to stock since vortech goes with 1 step colder. I dont have the right extension for the spark plugs tonight. Will it be ok to run the coler spark plugs for day or two?
Update. Anyone following this thread.
New injectors are back to stock, back to stock spark plugs. All leaks are resolved. Honestly, car sounds and feel the best i ever remember. Miss the insane kick of the vortech in 2nd and 3rd, especially since i didnt used to need to downshift when merging. Certainly nice to have a little quiet for a change, no more blower.
Thanks for help, i went from being a exhaust and intake bolt on guy to now knowing how to fully install and unistall a vortech SC, injectors, plugs, and repair multiple fluid lines over the period of 4 days.
New injectors are back to stock, back to stock spark plugs. All leaks are resolved. Honestly, car sounds and feel the best i ever remember. Miss the insane kick of the vortech in 2nd and 3rd, especially since i didnt used to need to downshift when merging. Certainly nice to have a little quiet for a change, no more blower.
Thanks for help, i went from being a exhaust and intake bolt on guy to now knowing how to fully install and unistall a vortech SC, injectors, plugs, and repair multiple fluid lines over the period of 4 days.
going with a bigger car. Have had an alternate 4 door from my ex for over 2 years. Now that im without im feeling very limited. Hate depending on others so getting something bigger, maybe magnum rt or charger rt. Have a line up of mods to get into mid 12s with the car and maintain decent mileage.
My biggest hobbies involve cars, wood work, and dogs, since a z only works for 1 of those 3, and i will b e moving near family with my baby niece, i need a more functional daily driver.
My biggest hobbies involve cars, wood work, and dogs, since a z only works for 1 of those 3, and i will b e moving near family with my baby niece, i need a more functional daily driver.
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