Intercooler If Filled With Oil
11-30-2008, 06:09 AM
#61
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if you saw how low the dispstick tube hole was on the oilpan you would understand that it would just shoot oil everywhere.
but i think you were joking anyways?
11-30-2008, 08:14 AM
#62
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I definetly have to get something to fix this. Literally my engine comparntment has oil spray everywhere where it's all comming from I have no idea.
Sharif please don't forget to tell us how to set this up.
If you can design and put together an electric or engine driven crancase vac pump setup to keep the crancase in permanent vacuum I would certainly buy one. I can't blow silicone couplings at the track anymore and push the car off the track. It's quite embarrassing.
Sharif please don't forget to tell us how to set this up.
If you can design and put together an electric or engine driven crancase vac pump setup to keep the crancase in permanent vacuum I would certainly buy one. I can't blow silicone couplings at the track anymore and push the car off the track. It's quite embarrassing.
Luie
11-30-2008, 08:38 AM
#64
I wasnt joking, as seen by the pics. The exhaust is a low pressure area which draws a vacuum. No one has tried it here, so why not.
If I fill my oil too fast with the dipstick out, oil comes out the dipstick hole. You would definitely not want a vacuum source there
If I fill my oil too fast with the dipstick out, oil comes out the dipstick hole. You would definitely not want a vacuum source there
11-30-2008, 08:41 AM
#65
thats an easy fix as well. just run a hose up to the top of the motor and put a breather on it. No way the oil would climb up that much vertical distance.
not a bad idea for those with holes in their upper pans.
not a bad idea for those with holes in their upper pans.
People seem to think that there needs to be a source of vacuum for crancase evac to work. There doesn't. There needs to be a source of comparably lower pressure which is the atmosphere. As long as there is higher pressure in the crankcase it will seek lower pressure through a vent as long as it is large/efficient enough. I think the crankcase vent hole could work without a vacuum source as long as it doesn't see oil as it returns to the pan or as it sloshes around in turns.
11-30-2008, 09:22 AM
#67
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For REAL? You really don't see the humor? I thought you were one of the smarter guys on this forum, someone I could look up to. 
How could you NOT think that idea is anything other than funny? 
I honestly thought str8dum1 was was joking and not just being... Well... Straight Dumb. OKay.
Now I'm not trying to be a complete a$$ (through my wife says I'm quite good at it) and I want to see a solution to this problem just as much as anyone as I too have a FI Z. But really?
Unless I missed something str8-dum-1 suggested "He should tap his exhuast and run a hose from the exhaust (< I even quoted his misspelling)to the CC with a 1 way valve".
Now let me explain what I read in funny boys post:
"should tap your (Extremely HOT rubber and plastic melting exhaust) and run a hose (probably made of rubber or plastic) from the exhaust to the CC with a 1 way valve (that could fail due to the extream heat or any number of other things). Have I missed anything? I say again.
This is not a wastegate. There are a number of things that haven't even been considered for something this dumb to even work never mind finding his so-called "Hose" made from Unobtainimu and his super-duper Intelligent Check Valve that can tell the difference between Positive Crank Case Pressure and Back Pressure.
PLEASE someone tell me what you think would happen if said check valve FAILED open allowing exhaust gasses into CC? PLEASE someone tell me what is the pressure variance between the CC at any rpm and the backpresure readings in a exhaust system with CATs in place?
Answers anyone?
Now JETPILOT, I'm going to assume that IQ's higher than 80 are required for being jet pilot so now I'm going to assume you understand why I thought it was funny now. Then you know what say about people who assume right? make and A$$ out of U and ME
Yep I say again
How about we find another idea that doesn't involve Getto-Rigging a thirty thousand dollar car?
It's not a Honda civic.I say all that with the utmost respect.
11-30-2008, 12:46 PM
#69
Well it's just as simple as that then. I can admit when I'M WRONG (It happens) and I guess the proof is in the pics.
I apologize. Now that that is done (yucky taste in mouth) how would you suggest really solving this issue. I'm still not sold on the exhaust evec method.
Jegs has a completed electric kit for sale for like $500.
Last edited by Havok_RLS2; 11-30-2008 at 12:52 PM.
11-30-2008, 03:08 PM
#71
I am going to begin on this project tomorrow. I have a simple solution. I am going to put a plug where the PCV valve goes and weld the lower plenum inlet from the PCV valve. I am going to drill out the crossover on either side of the valve cover to breathe better and put in -4an fittings and run a line between with a t-fitting in it connected to a catch can vented to the atmosphere. I am going to plug up the drivers side rear breather with some type of threaded -AN o-ring plug.
I will have pics and a parts list posted hopefully by the end of the week.
I will have pics and a parts list posted hopefully by the end of the week.
11-30-2008, 03:13 PM
#72
without a external vacuum, you just want as least resistance as possible.
As Sharif showed, it can be very basic and work just fine. The crucial point is that you must enlarge the drivers side vent because that is the out vent outlet when the stock pcv closes. And even with a PCV drilled out/bypassed, you still want to open the drivers side vent for easier release.
As Sharif showed, it can be very basic and work just fine. The crucial point is that you must enlarge the drivers side vent because that is the out vent outlet when the stock pcv closes. And even with a PCV drilled out/bypassed, you still want to open the drivers side vent for easier release.
11-30-2008, 03:52 PM
#73
Under boost the drivers side valve cover does not have it's own vent with the PCV installed. The pax side valve cover has to vent through the tiny hole in the drivers side valve cover by way of the crossover. So both valve covers vent through a tiny hole.
I'm going to vent the pax side valve cover on it's own and vent the drivers sdie valve cover on it's own. That's already more than double the ventilation since I'm going to open up the crossover holes even more.
My way vents almost 3X as much as Sharif's. That's the last time I'm explaining it.
I'm going to vent the pax side valve cover on it's own and vent the drivers sdie valve cover on it's own. That's already more than double the ventilation since I'm going to open up the crossover holes even more.
My way vents almost 3X as much as Sharif's. That's the last time I'm explaining it.
11-30-2008, 04:06 PM
#74
Under boost the drivers side valve cover does not have it's own vent with the PCV installed. The pax side valve cover has to vent through the tiny hole in the drivers side valve cover by way of the crossover. So both valve covers vent through a tiny hole.
I'm going to vent the pax side valve cover on it's own and vent the drivers sdie valve cover on it's own. That's already more than double the ventilation since I'm going to open up the crossover holes even more.
My way vents almost 3X as much as Sharif's. That's the last time I'm explaining it.
I'm going to vent the pax side valve cover on it's own and vent the drivers sdie valve cover on it's own. That's already more than double the ventilation since I'm going to open up the crossover holes even more.
My way vents almost 3X as much as Sharif's. That's the last time I'm explaining it.
Waiting for pics!! Good job Jet
11-30-2008, 06:51 PM
#76
Andrew...... open up the machine shop! We have work to do! Quad is the technical expertise behind this team. I'm the brains. How many people can tell you what tap you need for -AN thread sizes. He's you're man if you need something tapped!
11-30-2008, 07:55 PM
#77
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the vac pump in my above pic is off of a chevy s-10 or saturns have then also.they can be found used cheap,only leaving a little plumbing and a catch can to complete.i think it is the best way to go considering moroso style does not work 100% and commercial vac units have been known to suck the crankcase dry(they work too good).it's a nice happy medium and costs next to nothing.you can also control when it comes on or ramp up power to it as rpm or boost climbs.
Last edited by go-fast; 11-30-2008 at 09:22 PM.
11-30-2008, 09:16 PM
#78
I have been wondering about crankcase vent setups for a while now, and it seems as though the Z community has yet to come to a consensus on what is right and wrong. There really seems to be three options though...
1.) Fully vent the crankcase (which is being advocated here)
2.) Vent one side (driver's), but allow engine vacuum to help pull fresh air through the crankcase (through the PCV w/ one-way check valve)
3.) Closed system to provide crankcase vacuum at all times.
Which is best? I'm still waiting for someone to tell me that
I know JET MECH is a firm believer in crankcase vacuum in order to provide better ring seal and increased power, but others believe that all you need to do is evac the blowby. Most people that run setup #3 use two sources of vacuum - plenum when in vacuum, and F/I inlet (s/c or turbo filter) when in boost. Thinking about it, I don't think an F/I inlet would really provide much vacuum at all considering there is a large filter right next to it acting as a huge vacuum leak.
Since I'm running the STS system, my only source of vacuum under boost is at the rear of the car (again, probably not much vacuum anyways), so I'm currently running setup #2. I was considering doing the LT-1 smog pump setup though for constant vacuum under all conditions.
Anyways - can you guys do me a favor and figure this out once and for all?
1.) Fully vent the crankcase (which is being advocated here)
2.) Vent one side (driver's), but allow engine vacuum to help pull fresh air through the crankcase (through the PCV w/ one-way check valve)
3.) Closed system to provide crankcase vacuum at all times.
Which is best? I'm still waiting for someone to tell me that
I know JET MECH is a firm believer in crankcase vacuum in order to provide better ring seal and increased power, but others believe that all you need to do is evac the blowby. Most people that run setup #3 use two sources of vacuum - plenum when in vacuum, and F/I inlet (s/c or turbo filter) when in boost. Thinking about it, I don't think an F/I inlet would really provide much vacuum at all considering there is a large filter right next to it acting as a huge vacuum leak.
Since I'm running the STS system, my only source of vacuum under boost is at the rear of the car (again, probably not much vacuum anyways), so I'm currently running setup #2. I was considering doing the LT-1 smog pump setup though for constant vacuum under all conditions.
Anyways - can you guys do me a favor and figure this out once and for all?
Jet can I delete my first post now? Every time I read it I feel like this. 
< I'm the horse.