New Haltech dual channel wideband
as long as the controller is just outputting a 0-5V range, this will work perfectly
http://prosportgauges.com/digital-ai...olt-gauge.aspx
http://prosportgauges.com/digital-ai...olt-gauge.aspx
Haltech hasn't even selected a new manufacturer yet so there is not even a glimpse of a timeline. Once they find one then they can find out how long it will take to produce.
you might have a bad gauge. I have a prosport sitting here. I'll hook it up next week and see how it works. Make sure you have your gauge set to wideband. It has some adjustments on the back of the gauge that have to be selected to read true wideband.
also there might be a wiring issue in there too. if the gauge is seeing a different voltage than is actually being produced it wo'nt read correctly.
you might have a bad gauge. I have a prosport sitting here. I'll hook it up next week and see how it works. Make sure you have your gauge set to wideband. It has some adjustments on the back of the gauge that have to be selected to read true wideband.
also there might be a wiring issue in there too. if the gauge is seeing a different voltage than is actually being produced it wo'nt read correctly.
Haltech hasn't even selected a new manufacturer yet so there is not even a glimpse of a timeline. Once they find one then they can find out how long it will take to produce.
you might have a bad gauge. I have a prosport sitting here. I'll hook it up next week and see how it works. Make sure you have your gauge set to wideband. It has some adjustments on the back of the gauge that have to be selected to read true wideband.
also there might be a wiring issue in there too. if the gauge is seeing a different voltage than is actually being produced it wo'nt read correctly.
you might have a bad gauge. I have a prosport sitting here. I'll hook it up next week and see how it works. Make sure you have your gauge set to wideband. It has some adjustments on the back of the gauge that have to be selected to read true wideband.
also there might be a wiring issue in there too. if the gauge is seeing a different voltage than is actually being produced it wo'nt read correctly.
I'm pretty sure the gauge is set correctly n wired up correctly.. I'll see bout the gauge being set to wideband...
Thanks for tryin ur prosport... Lemme know how it goes.. Thanks
Gauge is setup with the correct dip switch configuration according to the the instructions, and is getting the correct voltage, its just the gauge reads approx .5 points higher than the logs.
I tired re calibrating the haltech controller, but haltech logs show it being a constant 11.5 when in boost when the gauge reads 12.0 or so.
I tired re calibrating the haltech controller, but haltech logs show it being a constant 11.5 when in boost when the gauge reads 12.0 or so.
so the voltage going to the gauge is 0.5V higher than what the haltech sees?
for a universal gauge, there should be some sorta pot your can turn to have the voltage the gauge reads match whats on your multimeter
for a universal gauge, there should be some sorta pot your can turn to have the voltage the gauge reads match whats on your multimeter
i have mine sitting on the floor in my office right now. wondering now if it was a waste of 70$
I'm starting to think it was a waste of 70 bucks. This is y I'd like da haltech display gauge cuz its for my haltech wideband. Would gimme an accurate reading. It's uneasy to be in boost n see my a/f gauge readin high 12s
i never pay attention to my gauge when i'm driving hard anyways. that's how you crash your ****.
it's not always off by .5 sometimes its way off... after datalogging it's never on point what my haltech is displaying... its been off a full point yet my log shows 11.5 MAX. I don't stare at it when driving hard but i do make it a point to check with quick glimpses... its a mod that lets me know when i should back off or if sumthin might be wrong :P
it's not always off by .5 sometimes its way off... after datalogging it's never on point what my haltech is displaying... its been off a full point yet my log shows 11.5 MAX. I don't stare at it when driving hard but i do make it a point to check with quick glimpses... its a mod that lets me know when i should back off or if sumthin might be wrong :P
and trust me, by the time your brain tells your foot it's time to get off of the gas the damage is far beyond.
if it ever does have an issue you'll find out way before you can get your foot off the gas.
see, that makes me think you have a bad gauge if it's off randomly with the same voltages.
and trust me, by the time your brain tells your foot it's time to get off of the gas the damage is far beyond.
if it ever does have an issue you'll find out way before you can get your foot off the gas.
and trust me, by the time your brain tells your foot it's time to get off of the gas the damage is far beyond.
if it ever does have an issue you'll find out way before you can get your foot off the gas.

I hate universal gauges
have you actually put a multimeter on the wires? MY AEM reads different than my haltech because they are not grounded together. My AEM sends the 0-5V to the haltech but I have the AEM grounded by the gauge and not spliced into the Haltech wiring.
You need to meter the voltage going into the gauge using the grounds that the gauge uses and then meter the voltage in the haltech harness using the haltech ground wire.
You need to meter the voltage going into the gauge using the grounds that the gauge uses and then meter the voltage in the haltech harness using the haltech ground wire.
have you actually put a multimeter on the wires? MY AEM reads different than my haltech because they are not grounded together. My AEM sends the 0-5V to the haltech but I have the AEM grounded by the gauge and not spliced into the Haltech wiring.
You need to meter the voltage going into the gauge using the grounds that the gauge uses and then meter the voltage in the haltech harness using the haltech ground wire.
You need to meter the voltage going into the gauge using the grounds that the gauge uses and then meter the voltage in the haltech harness using the haltech ground wire.
sounds like a way to elminate that possible error.
any more information on this? Elperuano, did you find a solution? My dad just ordered a ton of prosport gauges for the z32, and if i like the way they look i may go with the haltech w/b controller and prosport gauges.
On his he ordered a w/b for each bank and i'll just wire the gauge's output wire from each to the haltech to log.
ross
On his he ordered a w/b for each bank and i'll just wire the gauge's output wire from each to the haltech to log.
ross
Nope ;( still no word on when they're gonna find a company to manufacture this so for now im SOL on this dual channel wideband that was supposed to go hand-in-hand with my haltech ems.
prosport gauge is way off but my haltech logs show a steady 11.5 at WOT. Gauge shows over 12... wired correctly so anythin else beside from that is some mcgyver stuff ur gonna have to pull. But if u do manage to get it to work correctly n it reads actual true numbers lemme know
prosport gauge is way off but my haltech logs show a steady 11.5 at WOT. Gauge shows over 12... wired correctly so anythin else beside from that is some mcgyver stuff ur gonna have to pull. But if u do manage to get it to work correctly n it reads actual true numbers lemme know

any more information on this? Elperuano, did you find a solution? My dad just ordered a ton of prosport gauges for the z32, and if i like the way they look i may go with the haltech w/b controller and prosport gauges.
On his he ordered a w/b for each bank and i'll just wire the gauge's output wire from each to the haltech to log.
ross
On his he ordered a w/b for each bank and i'll just wire the gauge's output wire from each to the haltech to log.
ross
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