Stuck Injector = Huge Problems , ANY IDEAS?
12-19-2008, 06:41 AM
#21
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your intial startup of the vehicle with the motor running like crap and the high odor of fuel...............sounds like 2 of the coils are plugged in backwards.
mixing up the coil plugs will do exactly what you described!!! it's an easy fix. just plug the right wires into the right cylinders!!!
I know this because I did it one day by accident. I was changing my plugs and perfroming a compression test. when I put the plugs back in, I mixed up the wiring between cylinders 4 & 6 (rear 2 cylinders on the drivers side.) the wires could go either way, and I was rushing. (oops.) anyways, when I started the car, it was idling really rough and wouldn't rev up at all. also, there was a pretty strong fuel smell. I knew there was nothing wrong with the motor as it was perfect before I changed the plugs. Initially, I thought I had a bad plug, but as soon as I was about to pull the plugs, I noticed that I had 4 & 6 connected to the wrong coils. switched them, and the car fired right up!
So, go check the coil wires! there should be a little tag on each wire with a number on them. depending on the age of your car, it is possible that the tags may have fallen off though.
mixing up the coil plugs will do exactly what you described!!! it's an easy fix. just plug the right wires into the right cylinders!!!
I know this because I did it one day by accident. I was changing my plugs and perfroming a compression test. when I put the plugs back in, I mixed up the wiring between cylinders 4 & 6 (rear 2 cylinders on the drivers side.) the wires could go either way, and I was rushing. (oops.) anyways, when I started the car, it was idling really rough and wouldn't rev up at all. also, there was a pretty strong fuel smell. I knew there was nothing wrong with the motor as it was perfect before I changed the plugs. Initially, I thought I had a bad plug, but as soon as I was about to pull the plugs, I noticed that I had 4 & 6 connected to the wrong coils. switched them, and the car fired right up!
So, go check the coil wires! there should be a little tag on each wire with a number on them. depending on the age of your car, it is possible that the tags may have fallen off though.
also check that the coils themselves are tight on the plug
12-19-2008, 09:33 AM
#27
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try what I suggested with the heavy wait oil and post the results...that will tell you where the compression loss is coming from. What were the #'s on the other cylinders?
12-19-2008, 09:51 AM
#28
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Hey Mike, this is a situation of a bent rod. I've had the same unfortunate situation happen to another customer of mine. I was personally in disbelief when it happened but once the motor was out it was confirmed 100%. Normally it takes longer for this to happen but depending on how it was started up and such it could happen immediately.
12-19-2008, 10:29 AM
#29
here's an easy to tell if the rod is bent.......
if the rod is bent, the piston won't come up as high in the bore as it normally would have.
use a TDC tool and a dial indicator to find TDC on each piston. the one with the bent rod won't push the TDC tool up as high.
I have a tdc tool from eastwood, but I can't seem to find it for sale anymore. there are other ways to do it, but using a dial indicator is probably the most accurate.
if the rod is bent, the piston won't come up as high in the bore as it normally would have.
use a TDC tool and a dial indicator to find TDC on each piston. the one with the bent rod won't push the TDC tool up as high.
I have a tdc tool from eastwood, but I can't seem to find it for sale anymore. there are other ways to do it, but using a dial indicator is probably the most accurate.
12-19-2008, 11:42 AM
#30
here's an easy to tell if the rod is bent.......
if the rod is bent, the piston won't come up as high in the bore as it normally would have.
use a TDC tool and a dial indicator to find TDC on each piston. the one with the bent rod won't push the TDC tool up as high.
I have a tdc tool from eastwood, but I can't seem to find it for sale anymore. there are other ways to do it, but using a dial indicator is probably the most accurate.
if the rod is bent, the piston won't come up as high in the bore as it normally would have.
use a TDC tool and a dial indicator to find TDC on each piston. the one with the bent rod won't push the TDC tool up as high.
I have a tdc tool from eastwood, but I can't seem to find it for sale anymore. there are other ways to do it, but using a dial indicator is probably the most accurate.
12-19-2008, 12:39 PM
#31
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here's an easy to tell if the rod is bent.......
if the rod is bent, the piston won't come up as high in the bore as it normally would have.
use a TDC tool and a dial indicator to find TDC on each piston. the one with the bent rod won't push the TDC tool up as high.
I have a tdc tool from eastwood, but I can't seem to find it for sale anymore. there are other ways to do it, but using a dial indicator is probably the most accurate.
if the rod is bent, the piston won't come up as high in the bore as it normally would have.
use a TDC tool and a dial indicator to find TDC on each piston. the one with the bent rod won't push the TDC tool up as high.
I have a tdc tool from eastwood, but I can't seem to find it for sale anymore. there are other ways to do it, but using a dial indicator is probably the most accurate.
My car is an 04 Roadster - What model Long Blocks are drop in?
Any good places to get a long block?
12-22-2008, 07:29 PM
#33
That's funny.... I found a fuel injector stuck open today and had to order a new one. If a fuel injector is stuck open you will get a 0305 flashing check engine light for cylinder 5. I checked my compression and it was fine along all cylinders. I used a Snap-On borescope to look in the cylinder through the spark plug hole and pressurized the fuel system with the key in the Aux position. The injector was pouring fuel into the cylinder and fuel pressure dropped really fast when the fuel pump was done cycling.
12-22-2008, 08:49 PM
#35
an in-cabin digital fuel pressure gauge can be invaluable in situations like this. I had a walbro go bad once, and if I didn't have a pressure gauge, I would have been trying to diagnose all sorts of things because it sounded like the walbro was still cycling. it was , but it wasn't moving any fuel!
12-23-2008, 05:40 AM
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Well ive had it happen to me with DW 650cc injectors about a year and a half ago.... mine were brand new drop it started sticking with only a ride around the block!!! and got it half way to daves and it didnt go anymore!! got it down there on a flatbed and found out the news...... lets just say i had a new motor on the way after that visit.... I informed DW of what happened and they took care of there end and then some!!! DW FTMFW!!!
12-23-2008, 08:14 AM
#39
It could be contamination in the injector. Let's not blame Deatschwerks. I had 3 sets of these already and they have all been great except for this one incident. There could be something stuck in the injector. Mike from DW is taking care of everything. Very good customer service. He called me back this morning and advised me he would have a new set out to me today for overnight delivery and when these got back to him they would be cleaned and tested or replaced if found faulty. I still believe they are the best injectors you can get.
Last edited by JETPILOT; 12-23-2008 at 10:00 AM.
12-23-2008, 09:20 AM
#40
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We just ran into a similiar problem on a car we had here.It was an Altima CVT coupe with a turbo we put on it and all of a sudden the number 6 injector would fire with just the ignition key on.We quickly realized (beofre it hydrolocked) what was going on and to eliminate whether it was injector or ECU,we put the number six injector plug on the number four cylinder and the number four cylinder started firing with the key on.So we determined it was a driver in the ECU.We opend it up and and unsoldered the driver and soldered in one from a faulty 350Z ECU we had.Worked perfectly and the car has been running great!!!!!Hope this might help.
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