OMG, Alberto was spot on with his post! The OP is exemplifying his quote that XKR and I put in our sigs.


ATTENTION sik350!!!

It is absolutely f*cking retarded and makes no f*cking sense to spend $7000+ dollars on a built longblock and then pinch pennies on engine management and/or fuel system that are inadequate for your power goals!!! If your goal is 600whp... The only way to do it right for reliability and longevity is to use a standalone EMS (Haltech, HKS FCon, ProEFI) and a return fuel system with twin fuel pumps.

These things should not be combined or discussed in a proper 600whp build:

• budget
• Utec
• single fuel pump
• friend's supercharged Z

Like str8dum1 mentioned... Go in the shop build section and look at threads for cars that are pushing 600whp and see what EMS, fuel system, and clutch they are using.

Also I suggest you read through SlideFox's thread https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...ion-noobs.html

 

Sorry to crush your dream... but if you can't afford extra $15000, then your realistic goal is 400~450WHP my friend... Also, doing it all at once will save you a lot of money in labor and tuning... So, save up money and parts. Then, do it all at once.

As other guys said, you simply cannot do a "BUDGET" build when you are shooting for 600WHP. In 600WHP range you are pushing parts to the limit, so the reliability of parts and the margin of safety is the name of the game. That said... Getting a built motor is just a small piece of a puzzle... Other peripheral parts cost about equal or more money...

At 600WHP, weakest link will fail and fail FAST and guess what? Failed fuel system will take the built engine with it... Get the picture? If you are gonna go for it go all the way, or don't waste your pretty pennies that will fail after all your hard work... So, back to the stock fuel system.. Will you be able to achieve 600WHP on stock rails? You might if you really push it to the limit.. but will it be safe and reliable? NOT A CHANCE!

 

Utec is not good for 600whp!!!! why?

if some one can tell me why !?!?!?!

the Utec can controle injectors up to 750cc with no problems and allot of ppl here did 600whp with the utec, and some of them hits 700whp.
allso ignition timing.
some guys making Utec looks same as E-manage blue !!! i dont understand why ???
that day when Utec came out, every body says its the best of the best, as so many other shops says that 2.

and now the shops just talking about the Haltech and proefi , Fcon !!!! making the Utec looks very bad.....

performance shops, i wana ask u this,

if a customer dont have the money to pay for Fcon or Haltech, what are u going to tell him ???

GET LOST ????

 

The UTEC requires more tuning hours.. and more attention to detail.. you can tune a UTEC to run like an FCON or Haltech.. but its going to take alot of fine tuning.. if you can tune your own UTEC then yes... you don't mind spending the extra time.. but if you are a tuner.. its much easier to use the other choices.. that and the other ones have more features and failsafes

so can the UTEC be tuned for 600whp? absolutely..

and no one ever said it was the best of the best.. they said it was the best for the $1000 market

and even if it was the best of the best.. technology advances.. things get better.. you don't expect it to stay the best for ever do you?

in 1999 the Pentium III was the best of the best.. do you still look at it as the best of the best now?

 

+1 - you can still listen to music on a cassette tape, but most would agree an i-pod is better and more convienent.

If you want to carry the torch for the Utec, then by all means feel free to do so, but it is commonly accepted that once you cross over ~500whp a stand alone EMS is the way to go.

 

i've already said why its not good. The resolution goes way down as the boost goes up. Having to tune between 2 psi steps is a lot of missing control.

I would think at those power levels you'd want fine tuning not broad strokes, since you will be pushing everything.

 

Why the **** does it feel like I've read this thread 100 times. XKRs SIg. says it all!!

 

This guy asks things that have been discussed to death, surprisingly he gets good advise but he stands by his own hard headed/cheap ways, so why even bother with people like that? He doesnt want advise he wants confirmation that his planned setup would work.

 

+1

 

Lets see if this thread is an exact match to Alberto's statement.....

Big numbers ---

lack of mental capacity---

small budget---


no driving skills--- more than likely


no common sense---

Berto...you have scored 100 points

 

<----winner

 

IBTL

I wish I could make a meaningful contribution to this thread, but it seems the Regulators of the FI have spoken.

 

Can you even handle 600hp? and use 600hp for DD?..... come on man

 

Wow hold up! I am serious about my build. That is why i posted. Thanks for all the info.I will build it right the first time even if it takes me longer. I understand that if its a budget build then dont even try. I dont think the average person on here, Baller status or not can drop 20 g's in one day in a build. Im taking all the commets to heart and im changing my opinion as comments come in. Utec im ditching.I will upgrade my fuel rails with bigger injectors and dual fuel pumps. Any more info for the positive will be appreciated. I am gonna stop rushing my self and build it Right. Thanks guys!

 

Just go for 450-500whp for now and keep it simple. If you get a year without issues move up from there. It sounds like the cost and reliability factor jumps a large margin when you start to pass the 500whp range. I'm not sure what your experience is with cars but if this is your first fast car, going for 600wph right off the bat is pretty dangerous.

 

you don't need dual pumps right now.. but if i were you.. i would get a CJM Stage 1 or 2 RFS

 

My associates have spoken... You know what to do... May the force of the F/I section be with you....

 

The End
---------

 

I'll bite on the clutch....you guys covered fuel and everything else pretty well lol

I went a different route on the clutch than most. I too was in the same opinion on these $3K clutches.
I went with the DXD Southbend Stage V Full feramic single disk. I believe it has the most holding power of any single-disk (not including full race clutches).
Warning, it is not the best if you will be caught in traffic a lot, and the break-in period was horrendous. But after 300-500miles it smoothed out 1000000x.

cost is $550.

It has held my power so far 4500miles (535-550rwhp on pump regularly, 690rwhp on 110leaded a bunch, and 769rwhp on 110leaded handfull of times on street and bout 10 dyno pulls). We'll see how its doing next season.

Tom

 

^^ what flywheel do u have with that clutch. i was looking at the same one. crappy DD clutch though huh?