Has anyone had a poor running motor wit han 1136 code? I have an IVT solenoid code and I can't narrow it down to what it could be. Ireplaced the solenoid with a new one and the wiring connection is good. The engine is running like it's dropping a cylinder. 1136 and 0300 are my only codes. I have a track day on June 3rd and can't miss it, but this has me baffled. I will lose $550 if I don't get this resolved and I already lst $550 2 weeks ago for this same problem. Anyone have something similar?

 

i got that code when I fried my stock ECU when my vortech belt broke and slapped the IVT wires. do mulitmeter check on the ECU.. you need 5V (or 12V whatever the FSM says) on the IVT pins.

that advice will cost you about $500 as well

seriously, good luck.

 

Was the ECU repairable? I guess it's time for a Haltech!

What exactly happened to the IVT wires? Did the engine run rough? Like it was dropping a cylinder?

Thanks!

 

What EMS are you running?

 

Im pretty sure he's on a UTEC from his past threads..

 

UTEC.... thanks!

 

had to get a another stock ecu from the junk yard and reprogrammed. the IVT controls the cam, so ya it didnt run right.

check the voltage on those pins 1st though. also check the solenoid. all in the FSM on what the values should be. If the solenoid is bad, thats about $200.

 

A single power wire feeds the IVT solenoids for each bank, the EVAP solenoid in the rear, and the power to each coil. With that combination of codes, I'd look for damage to that wire. Just a sec - will look for a diagram...

EDIT: uploaded PDF which is pages from FSM for a 2004.5 G35 coupe. You need to find the exact same pages for your car and identify the correct wire color. That single wire is likely at fault. The voltage should be battery voltage and likely is damaged, affecting your spark and IVT operation. I put red arrows to show the common wire. In my car this wire goes from the IPDM, back behind battery, and out to ignition coils along the passenger side of the engine, around the front to the IVT solenoids for passenger and drivers side. I think the wire also branches to a harness of the far left for the EVAP solenoid. Not sure why they tied all 3 together because it makes it problematic to install a device like a boost-a-spark without a lot of rewiring.

 

You will need a good, working OEM ECU even if you buy a Haltech...

 

I thought the Haltech would be controlling the cam phasing?

 

It does. The stock ECU controls the throttle and creature comforts. I doubt a new stock ECU or a Haltech will solve your issue given the CEL codes you noted.

 

with the haltech, doesn't the stock ecu still control throttle? sorry, it's been awhile since i've been in the FI forum.

edit, rcdash posted at the same time and answered my question

 

It will if it's the computer pin to the IVT solenoid that failed.