drumminguy81

iTrader: (19)

ok so my car used to run and idle perfectly fine but it was throwing the p0507 code for idle too high i did the idle air relearn which took care of the check engine light but then it dropped the idle down so low that when i pulled to lights the car would die.. i purchased a cipher cable and bumped the idle up now it wont die but the idle is very very rough it jumps between about 700 rmp and 1000 constantly up and down like i am tapping the gas pedal repeditively it will only start to do this after the car has warmed up.. any ideas of what would cause this or how to fix it? i have also tried to do the idle realearn several times with no change.. any help would be great

350Z400rwhp

iTrader: (4)

Do you have stock injectors? EMS?

D-tuned

iTrader: (3)

check for a vacuum leak

whoojong

iTrader: (9)

^+1 Sounds just like a vaccuum leak. crappy part is that it's a PITA to find. go through through each line to see if there's any cracking. I like to put little zip ties on all of the small ones that don't already have clamps, but at may be over kill.

drumminguy81

iTrader: (19)

stock injectors, and the ss box. could there still be a significant enough vacuum leak even though my boost guage is still reading normal? are there any common places for vacuum leaks to check? could a leak on my intake tube effect it?

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

yes, you better plug up that air filter.

LOL

no, nothing before the MAF matters. your TB might be ready to take a poop on you as well, esp if you didnt change anything under the hood. make sure your bypass valve line is secure.

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

im in for the answer to this one..take it to get looked at to someone who would know and let us know i say..

then sell me ur vortech kit...lol but seriously somebody sell their damn kit already

drumminguy81

iTrader: (19)

well it had a meth injection and i am not running it so i just plugged the hole where the fitting was near the tb.. i did put a plenum spacer on.. but have checked for leaks all around that didnt find any... i do have a spare tb might have to try swapping it out..

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

so thie high idle started after you did all the above?

why not post that in your 1st thread. its a vacuum leak then. its leaking around the spacer or something isnt plugged back in correctly.

i'd pull the plenum back off, and do it over again, making sure to torque everything in the exact sequence listed in the FSM.

drumminguy81

iTrader: (19)

no, the spacer has been on for years the high idle started after the vortech.. it was not very high though only about 950 the only reason i did the throttle relearn was to get rid of the cel for emissions now it runs like crap.. i did not change anything other than do the relearn

Chef-J

iTrader: (58)

More info would b nice, rev up? Non? Pully size? Spark plug?

I would start wit recheck all install n think about install injectors, getting a reflash.

Biochem7

iTrader: (8)

Good luck man, I have been trying to figure out these idle issues for awhile now

350Z400rwhp

iTrader: (4)

You can do a pressure test to find your leak. I have a Vortech and did the same thing. Here is my DIY on how to do it. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...-test-kit.html

drumminguy81

iTrader: (19)

non revup 3.12 pulley stock injectors 1 step colder plugs

bermudwj

I have 04 350z vortec with 440cc one step colder plugs walbro fuel pump intake plenum and tune using utech after the tune car was running fine then i washed my car had car on not the engine running and i killed my battery. my dad gave me a jump and car started up then i took it for a drive and then all the sensors came on like service engine soon and slip and track control. Then car started to idle weird and also accelerate by its self then come back to normal then it will feel like it wants to die then i was driving and it died on me. I try to started it but wouldnt start belt would turn but the car wont start. So then took out the key waited five mins then it started so i went to change battery got a new one. It started up first time then when i got home it started all over again with the sensors and wanting to die i contacted the guy that did the tune he said it might be the maf so i will clean it but i want to know ya opinion on this

bermudwj

I also heard about it might be camshaft sensors so should i change both one behind the engine and the other at the buttom of the engine i believe

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

how did you kill your battery?

djamps

iTrader: (1)

If you started having issues after washing the car (or bad weather in general) there's probably a water leak in the main engine harness grommet which sits directly above the ECU and UTEC. Very common/overlooked issue when extra wiring is pushed thru that grommet...

BigBlue

iTrader: (4)

Just an update: Like a lot of you with Vortech SC kits that have had some high idle issues. I've had my Stillen V3 kit on the car for about 1 yr. now and for some time I idled high; up to around 1200-1500 rpms constant.

For months now my car idle has been pretty much a steady 900-1000. I don't have any idea as to why it has gone back down or exactly when, but I has been like it is now for about 6 months or so.

Would be interesting if others with the Vortech also see drops back towards a normal idle rpm. I actually prefer it to be at 1,000 myself. Hopefully you guys that still have the very high rpm's will also see a drop. Early on I told Stillen about the high idle issue and they sent me a simple larger dia. "restrictor ring" (can't remember the name of the part) that is in the hose that goes from bypass valve to blower; was a simple replacement. Maybe that eventually was the reason for my rpm drop.