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Issue with stalling ...

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Old 02-22-2009, 02:44 PM
  #21  
frankie945
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Originally Posted by neosoul
I read somewhere that this problem is more apparent due to a lightened flywheel (which I have) and vacuum loss due to all the gauges we have.

I currently have mines (boost, UTEC map sensor, bov) running off the service port on the plenum.

Shariff - what do you guys 'T' off for those items? I saw from another forum that some folks 'T' off the larger port from the bottom plenum.

Is anyone using that strategy ? Should we just invest in a TB spacer from AAM with 3 additional vacuum ports?

http://www.alteredatmosphere.com/mm5...de=350Z_INTAKE
Buy a vacuum block. Or do it the right way and drill extra ports in the upper plenum for extra lines.
Old 02-22-2009, 02:51 PM
  #22  
drumminguy81
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to bump your idle if your car is 03-04.5 the dealer can do it with the consult tool they usually charge an hour of labor. or you can spend a little more and get the cipher tool for about 300 and bump it your self.. if your car is newer than 04.5 i believe you have to have your ecu flashed..
Old 02-22-2009, 02:55 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Car vs. Driver
so, how do I bump the idle then?
cipher from uprev will allow you to bump up your idle. I had mine bumped up yesterday. You will love it when it comes to stop and go traffic too.

When coming off the high way from a 30minute drive my car would die with the utec when I pushed the clutch in. The fix for that is get a Haltech the best mod I have done by far. It drives like a stock turbo'd car. I Love it.
Old 02-22-2009, 03:00 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by drumminguy81
to bump your idle if your car is 03-04.5 the dealer can do it with the consult tool they usually charge an hour of labor. or you can spend a little more and get the cipher tool for about 300 and bump it your self.. if your car is newer than 04.5 i believe you have to have your ecu flashed..
I called every dealer in 100 miles of my area and they all said the same thing.
" We can only flash to factory parameters " I don't see how people are getting there dealerships to up there idle. I think it's Bull ****.. That's coming from my experiences.
Old 02-22-2009, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by drumminguy81
to bump your idle if your car is 03-04.5 the dealer can do it with the consult tool they usually charge an hour of labor. or you can spend a little more and get the cipher tool for about 300 and bump it your self.. if your car is newer than 04.5 i believe you have to have your ecu flashed..
double post my bad
Old 02-22-2009, 03:47 PM
  #26  
UMW350Z
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Originally Posted by frankie945
cipher from uprev will allow you to bump up your idle. I had mine bumped up yesterday. You will love it when it comes to stop and go traffic too.

When coming off the high way from a 30minute drive my car would die with the utec when I pushed the clutch in. The fix for that is get a Haltech the best mod I have done by far. It drives like a stock turbo'd car. I Love it.
I'm close to following your advice with the Haltech
Old 02-22-2009, 03:54 PM
  #27  
Car vs. Driver
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Originally Posted by frankie945
Buy a vacuum block. Or do it the right way and drill extra ports in the upper plenum for extra lines.
That's what I did with mine.
Old 04-12-2009, 11:26 AM
  #28  
RandomHer0
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I have this exact same issue, Greddy TT, 440 Inj. and UTEC + Light FW.

Does anyone know if this fix applies or works from JWT??

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...BILITY_FIX.PDF
Old 04-13-2009, 04:00 AM
  #29  
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I might have to try that ... still haven't fixed my stalling. Then again, the car has been parked for about a month anyway.
Old 04-13-2009, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Car vs. Driver
I might have to try that ... still haven't fixed my stalling. Then again, the car has been parked for about a month anyway.
so all those re-learns didnt fix it?

my G use to stall all the time, then it went away. but theres sometime where it seems to lag a bit, like i give it a lil gas and it takes a sec before the rpm rise

wonder if this is related
Old 04-13-2009, 04:45 AM
  #31  
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Nope. In fact, I haven't driven the car much since because it really just pisses me off to drive it. I've been rocking my 1994 Volvo 850 "Doom Wagon" instead.

The only thing I haven't done is get the idle bumped because the tags are actually expired now, so I have a whole new set of issues to deal with first (failed inspection due to CEL). I have new O2 sensors and HFC's to install to pass inspection. I'm going to give the JWT trick a try when I go to put all that stuff on the car this week.
Old 04-13-2009, 05:06 AM
  #32  
Chef-J
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Just a bump the idle didn't really help in my case, tuner had to play with fuel/timming stuff thru ECU. Still have to give a tap on gas when i crack it up, but it won't stalls on the road.

chefj
Old 04-13-2009, 05:25 AM
  #33  
Car vs. Driver
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Originally Posted by Chef-J
Just a bump the idle didn't really help in my case, tuner had to play with fuel/timming stuff thru ECU. Still have to give a tap on gas when i crack it up, but it won't stalls on the road.

chefj
Interesting, I don't have any driveability issues on the road .. it's just the stalling when coming to a stop unless I heel toe all day long (which tends to be obnoxious on the streets considering how loud my car is).

Like I said, it certainly isn't related to my tune

BTW, J ... shoot me your paypal address so I can straighten up with you on those HFC's.
Old 04-13-2009, 05:36 AM
  #34  
Chef-J
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Originally Posted by Car vs. Driver
Interesting, I don't have any driveability issues on the road .. it's just the stalling when coming to a stop unless I heel toe all day long (which tends to be obnoxious on the streets considering how loud my car is).

Like I said, it certainly isn't related to my tune

BTW, J ... shoot me your paypal address so I can straighten up with you on those HFC's.
Oh, actually it is nothing to do with tuner or tune with utec. It's utec and high injectors for sure. I was just saying reflash ECU helped me little bit on it.


Shoot you PM bro.

chefj
Old 04-13-2009, 07:14 AM
  #35  
str8dum1
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have you logged the conditions leading up to the stall? rpm, timing, AFR, fuel pressure, temps?

be interesting if you say anything

Originally Posted by Car vs. Driver
Interesting, I don't have any driveability issues on the road .. it's just the stalling when coming to a stop unless I heel toe all day long (which tends to be obnoxious on the streets considering how loud my car is).

Like I said, it certainly isn't related to my tune

BTW, J ... shoot me your paypal address so I can straighten up with you on those HFC's.
Old 04-13-2009, 07:21 AM
  #36  
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Yeah, it's certainly because of my flywheel and vortech setup. The RPM's drop too fast before the ECU can compensate and it just stalls. Setting the idle higher will prevent the RPM's from dropping too far below 500 before it figures out what's happening.
Old 04-13-2009, 07:31 AM
  #37  
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I experienced stalling at stop go traffic . The fuel pressure was high (80 psi) at idle with the walbro since I didn't do the drilling of it that's recommnded..Think fluctuations in the FUEL pressure caused the stalling. I also have a LWF. Went with a RFS and no more problem...
Old 04-14-2009, 11:37 AM
  #38  
Jeremy@Altered
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Hey there,



If you cant get it to stop stalling, come by here and we will fix it for you.


Its probably just some settings on your utec set up improperly.
Old 04-14-2009, 11:52 AM
  #39  
Car vs. Driver
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Originally Posted by Jeremy@Altered
Hey there,



If you cant get it to stop stalling, come by here and we will fix it for you.


Its probably just some settings on your utec set up improperly.
Thanks Jeremy, I'm on vacation next week so I'll give you a ring. This something you can talk me through over the phone?

Also, you don't think it would have anything to do with the fact that I have your NA flash on my ecu would it?
Old 04-15-2009, 04:09 AM
  #40  
Jeremy@Altered
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No actually the flash should help out because it will bump the idle up a bit. Talk to you then my friend.


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