I would but its literally 2 bolts and a cherry picker away from coming out, so it wouldnt be a very complete DIY

 

Alright, how hard is it to pull the wiring harness through the bulkhead/firewall and everything? Im seriously considering pulling my engine myself and installing TT's to save on the install cost. So I can get the TT's instead of ST...haha

 

Just remove the battery and the little plastic panel above it and you will see the grommet where the harness goes into the firewall just below the windshield. Disconnect the harness and the other small white harness next to the ecu then reach up under the dash and you will have to push the tabs in to get the grommet to come out. Then you can push the harness out into the engine bay and its cake from there.

TT install isnt all that hard if you are somewhat mechanically inclined and have worked on turbo cars before. A good set of tools helps as well although I did my whole longblock assembly and TT install with a Craftsman 200 piece mechanics set

 

I hope you added a torque wrench to your tool set!

 

i just borrowed one, im cheap like that

 

You mean you can't just use the german technique "Gudentite"

 

I pulled engine without transmission when I did it. I didn't want to unhook the a/c condenser and worry about getting the a/c refilled so I left the front clip mostly in place. Whenever I do it again I will probably pull the transmission with the engine as It took me and a friend probably 4-5 hours to get the input shaft back into the engine.

 

i got the engine and tranny out tonight and left the AC compressor completely connected. Now i remember how much i hate taking it out

 

Does anybody know if its ok to pick up the engine by the head/lower intake bolts.

Im talkin about the bolts that are in the head and hold the lower manifold down. Is there a risk of the head crackin due to weight.

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/350z-pa...5_716_720.html

Nissan actually sells a slinger that bolts onto the heads, Idk if i would use the manifold bolts though

 

I like that. I'll have to remember to use the Gudentite method in the near future.

 

I have the slingers. They are not very effective if you are trying to pull the motor up/out of the front. the driver's side hits the sheetmetal around the engine bay. these slingers are designed for dropping the motor out of the bottom. the pass. slinger is usefull though. I ended up reworking the driver side slinger and bolting it to one of the transmission bellhousing bolts.

worked great.

the other thing about these slingers is they are very "springy." they aren't stiff so they flex inward and move alot when you put a load on them. I had to pull the cam sensors our of the back of the driver's head because the slinger flexed so much that it would have broken the sensors off.

 

here's a pic. you can see that the slinger is bolted to the bellhousing, instead of the intended location.