This may be a stupid question, but what's your MPG w/FI?
After gas prices went down, I've been boosting continuously since it's a bargain right now. When it's back over $4 per gallon, I might let up, like in school zones and what not. 
If you can't afford a beater car, you can't afford boost.
Nothing wrong with driving a boosted car everyday, but HAVING to drive it is a lot different then driving it because you want to.
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Chicago
Hybrid WHAT?!?!?!?!?!?
This pic makes it clear that the stock G35 nav computer uses a pre calculated algorithm using rpm and mph and load to determine mpg......after changing to the 3.3FD it is really confused lol
cruising on highway at 80mph (fyi, in the bitter cold tonight, 24 degrees I was getting full boost by 3000rpm not too shabby)
This pic makes it clear that the stock G35 nav computer uses a pre calculated algorithm using rpm and mph and load to determine mpg......after changing to the 3.3FD it is really confused lol
cruising on highway at 80mph (fyi, in the bitter cold tonight, 24 degrees I was getting full boost by 3000rpm not too shabby)
IMO you should never have a non turbo car that has been boosted as an every day driver that is your only car, chit happens.
If you can't afford a beater car, you can't afford boost.
Nothing wrong with driving a boosted car everyday, but HAVING to drive it is a lot different then driving it because you want to.
If you can't afford a beater car, you can't afford boost.
Nothing wrong with driving a boosted car everyday, but HAVING to drive it is a lot different then driving it because you want to.
Last edited by ktnupe8; Feb 20, 2009 at 07:12 PM.
Mine is not a stock block,which you specified in the question, but I am going to answer anyway. I average 9.8 MPG which is about 150 miles per tank. I have a mad lead foot on the rare occasions that I have been able to drive my car since going FI.
Must be pure sex to drive your car though man lol.
. I don't really know the signifigance of his SN. He may be part of the frat too 
Hmmm...wonder if KutNupe14 is derived similarly...
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 16,493
Likes: 5
From: Indianapolis
It's related to the fraternity that I am a member, Kappa Alpha Psi. Kappa Theta is the chapter I'm apart of (KT), and nupe is what we say when we greet each other. 8 is my line number. Put it all together and you have KTNupe8 . I don't really know the signifigance of his SN. He may be part of the frat too
. I don't really know the signifigance of his SN. He may be part of the frat too 
It is....
Once again you hop to conclusions. I'd like to know whether or not to get beater. They call them a beater for a reason my friend. Its cheap and if it breaks down you don't give a darn you just leave it on the side of the road and get another one. Finances have nothing at all to do with this decision buddy. Practicality does.... Thanks for your rather pompous opinion though
What I said was geared towards everyone, so when someone searches around down the road they can see my input on owning after market turboed cars as DDs.
I had an after market turbo car in the past as a daily driver with no backup car it sucked, anytime the slightest thing went wrong on a work day I was screwed, you cant just drop it off at a random dealership because they wont touch it, you can either tow it home and work on it yourself or tow it to your shop if you have one, (1 + hour away for me) when its Tuesday and you have no ride for work for the rest of the week it sucks.
Stuff that goes wrong with turbo cars tends to be stupid things, from burning a hole in your PS line, water line, having the turbo go bad (TN guys anyone?)
If something on your kit breaks you could be waiting x many days for the part to ship in since no one local will carry it.
Getting a beater is a great idea but yes, it does need to be something you can rely on, my beater is a 2004 TL with full warranty, I call it my beater because I bought it so I wouldnt have to drive my Z.
How much did you get back on your taxes and how much were you looking to spend on FI?
Once again? first time posting in this thread.
What I said was geared towards everyone, so when someone searches around down the road they can see my input on owning after market turboed cars as DDs.
I had an after market turbo car in the past as a daily driver with no backup car it sucked, anytime the slightest thing went wrong on a work day I was screwed, you cant just drop it off at a random dealership because they wont touch it, you can either tow it home and work on it yourself or tow it to your shop if you have one, (1 + hour away for me) when its Tuesday and you have no ride for work for the rest of the week it sucks.
Stuff that goes wrong with turbo cars tends to be stupid things, from burning a hole in your PS line, water line, having the turbo go bad (TN guys anyone?)
If something on your kit breaks you could be waiting x many days for the part to ship in since no one local will carry it.
Getting a beater is a great idea but yes, it does need to be something you can rely on, my beater is a 2004 TL with full warranty, I call it my beater because I bought it so I wouldnt have to drive my Z.
How much did you get back on your taxes and how much were you looking to spend on FI?
What I said was geared towards everyone, so when someone searches around down the road they can see my input on owning after market turboed cars as DDs.
I had an after market turbo car in the past as a daily driver with no backup car it sucked, anytime the slightest thing went wrong on a work day I was screwed, you cant just drop it off at a random dealership because they wont touch it, you can either tow it home and work on it yourself or tow it to your shop if you have one, (1 + hour away for me) when its Tuesday and you have no ride for work for the rest of the week it sucks.
Stuff that goes wrong with turbo cars tends to be stupid things, from burning a hole in your PS line, water line, having the turbo go bad (TN guys anyone?)
If something on your kit breaks you could be waiting x many days for the part to ship in since no one local will carry it.
Getting a beater is a great idea but yes, it does need to be something you can rely on, my beater is a 2004 TL with full warranty, I call it my beater because I bought it so I wouldnt have to drive my Z.
How much did you get back on your taxes and how much were you looking to spend on FI?
Got back roughly $3700... Willing to spend the same... So somewhere around $7500. Was looking at he 18g Greddy TT Kit. Might push me over where I want to spend buy hey that's life. As for as keeping it stable. I'm not going for HUGE rwhp numbers. I've heard of plenty of guys running their systems at 8psi and riding it ok. They've let me know they get about 18 city 22 hwy mpg with no issues. Everyone's set up is different. I'm definitely going to take your comments into consideration though. It would suck being on the way to work and BAM... you're SOL. Worst case scenario, the spring/summer's coming up and I'll be able to use my bike ('06 Hayabusa) as a back up if sh*t hits the fan.
Doesn't matter if you're only making 300WHP, you still have x many more things that can break, come undone, or just straight up stop working. When those things break, it could cause your car to boost 8-10-12-14PSI lets say if a vacuum line pops off while driving around then BOOM! **** happens, I hit about 20-25PSI on my turbo civic when a line to my waste gate popped off, thankfully I had a fully built motor, I was doing the break in and had no desire to hit anything over 8PSI, after tuning was done the motor easily held 20+ psi, however when you're driving a stock block Z and something "small" like that happens, it can suck. even more so when it's your only car.
$7500 sounds about right for buying the basic needed parts for the kit, just remember installing (did my own so I saved a few grand) then also boost controller if you ever want to do anything over spring pressure and have a better handle on whats going on, also tuning, that's a nice chunk of change.
If you can, also do a fuel reutrn system it will make tuning go a bit smoother.
Have you done FI before? if not, plan on spending at least 50% more then what you think.
My turbo kit was in the $7s, gauges, boost controller, fuel return, plugs, rear end (had a base model) random items + tuning, I easily went over 10K guessing closer to about 12. once everything was all set and done
My goal was to spend around 6-7K installed/tuned. using a TN kit. at the last minute I jumped on the Powerlab bandwagon.
My biggest issue with driving a turbo car daily is the upkeep, if you put a lot of miles on the car you might be popping the hood looking over things every week or every other week just to make sure all your vac/oil lines are still where you want them and nothing is coming undone like a charge pipe, I remember blowing a charge pipe off my civic, I was driving along, started to get into boost and then BOOM! car sputtered and started to stall, one of those WTF things.
Who's doing the install?
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...o-install.html
Guys pushing big #s have issues with motors blowing up as with the little issues all FI runners have.
Doesn't matter if you're only making 300WHP, you still have x many more things that can break, come undone, or just straight up stop working. When those things break, it could cause your car to boost 8-10-12-14PSI lets say if a vacuum line pops off while driving around then BOOM! **** happens, I hit about 20-25PSI on my turbo civic when a line to my waste gate popped off, thankfully I had a fully built motor, I was doing the break in and had no desire to hit anything over 8PSI, after tuning was done the motor easily held 20+ psi, however when you're driving a stock block Z and something "small" like that happens, it can suck. even more so when it's your only car.
$7500 sounds about right for buying the basic needed parts for the kit, just remember installing (did my own so I saved a few grand) then also boost controller if you ever want to do anything over spring pressure and have a better handle on whats going on, also tuning, that's a nice chunk of change.
If you can, also do a fuel reutrn system it will make tuning go a bit smoother.
Have you done FI before? if not, plan on spending at least 50% more then what you think.
My turbo kit was in the $7s, gauges, boost controller, fuel return, plugs, rear end (had a base model) random items + tuning, I easily went over 10K guessing closer to about 12. once everything was all set and done
My goal was to spend around 6-7K installed/tuned. using a TN kit. at the last minute I jumped on the Powerlab bandwagon.
My biggest issue with driving a turbo car daily is the upkeep, if you put a lot of miles on the car you might be popping the hood looking over things every week or every other week just to make sure all your vac/oil lines are still where you want them and nothing is coming undone like a charge pipe, I remember blowing a charge pipe off my civic, I was driving along, started to get into boost and then BOOM! car sputtered and started to stall, one of those WTF things.
Who's doing the install?
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...o-install.html
Doesn't matter if you're only making 300WHP, you still have x many more things that can break, come undone, or just straight up stop working. When those things break, it could cause your car to boost 8-10-12-14PSI lets say if a vacuum line pops off while driving around then BOOM! **** happens, I hit about 20-25PSI on my turbo civic when a line to my waste gate popped off, thankfully I had a fully built motor, I was doing the break in and had no desire to hit anything over 8PSI, after tuning was done the motor easily held 20+ psi, however when you're driving a stock block Z and something "small" like that happens, it can suck. even more so when it's your only car.
$7500 sounds about right for buying the basic needed parts for the kit, just remember installing (did my own so I saved a few grand) then also boost controller if you ever want to do anything over spring pressure and have a better handle on whats going on, also tuning, that's a nice chunk of change.
If you can, also do a fuel reutrn system it will make tuning go a bit smoother.
Have you done FI before? if not, plan on spending at least 50% more then what you think.
My turbo kit was in the $7s, gauges, boost controller, fuel return, plugs, rear end (had a base model) random items + tuning, I easily went over 10K guessing closer to about 12. once everything was all set and done
My goal was to spend around 6-7K installed/tuned. using a TN kit. at the last minute I jumped on the Powerlab bandwagon.
My biggest issue with driving a turbo car daily is the upkeep, if you put a lot of miles on the car you might be popping the hood looking over things every week or every other week just to make sure all your vac/oil lines are still where you want them and nothing is coming undone like a charge pipe, I remember blowing a charge pipe off my civic, I was driving along, started to get into boost and then BOOM! car sputtered and started to stall, one of those WTF things.
Who's doing the install?
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...o-install.html
^^ Great DIY thread by the way! I could only imagine how difficult of an install this was. The TT install would be the biggest PITA east of the Mississippi to do lol. If I could pull the motor myself I'd be down for the cause, but I'm definitely not without that ability. Then again how much Sharif decides to burn my wallet will influence that. I do appreciate you letting me know what variables I'll be dealing with for having this as my DD . I'll sift though the many pages of your thread and see what I can learn before taking the leap.
. I'll sift though the many pages of your thread and see what I can learn before taking the leap.