I really do not think the utec is causing your problem. It must be something else. When you did the throttle body relearn use a stop watch or timer so you are doing it correctly. Also make sure the utec is grounded good. A poor ground will cause problems with anything.

Also if you plug laptop into utec go to dashboard and press the throttle pedal and see it the throttle percent go's up.

I bet you need a new TB.

Trouble shooting is a b!tch...

 

Just the UTEC. No ecu flash.

Can I run the car without the utec? Can I just unplug it and plug the stock ecu back in? I know not to get in boost, but will the ecu run the car with the 600 injectors? I think it might. The UTEC is only pulling 10% of the maf out at 0% load.

Has anyone tried this?

 

^ i wouldn't try it. Unless you take out cog belt. It will run very funky with high fuel.

Edit: I don't know, if your problem reflash ECU can help. I asked Hal@IP to reflash my ECU just for run smoother.

Chefj

 

My ECU is reflashed and I still have the same issue. The reflash shouldn't have anything to do with it...since according to the FSM the code means that a voltage level coming back from the TB is not proper. My guess is that there is some internal resistance or voltage droop caused by the UTEC which is causing these codes to fire intermittently.

When you guys mention "grounding" the UTEC, there really is no official way to do it. According to the manual the black wire from the molex connector is used ONLY for the relay output. It DOES NOT ground any internal electronics. I went ahead and grounded it anyways and it made no difference. It appears the UTEC obtains it's internal ground from the ECU harness and nowhere else.

 

Humm this is pretty interested in now, i have to see if mine will bring an issue.

chefj

 

The utec has to be grounded. And you can just pull out the utec but you will have rough idle because of your injectors dumping too much fuel.

I would give turboxs a call ask for jermain. He I know can help u out. He has helped me in the past.
Explain to him what its doing.

 

So how do you "ground" it? The manual states the black wire is for the relay/solenoid output only. If you're not running boost control, you don't need it. My Utec runs exactly the same with or without the wire connected.

There's no way the black wire is connected to digital ground or anything other than the relay circuit. If it did, you would run the risk of damaging the internal electronics and/or ECU harness if you hooked up a boost solenoid.

 

I called turboxs and they said this has happened before, although not in a long time. They said that it's usually a hardware/jumper issue and that it couldn't be fixed with a reflash. They gave me an rma number and said to sent the utec back to them.

I'm gonna remove the UTEC today and see if the car will run the larger injectors without it. If it runs without it, then I know the problem is somewhere in the UTEC.

 

^ i don't see why can not run without Utec, but i don't know, like i mention it earlier, i wouldn't take a chance or try. ( i don't know how long you will drive without utec ) lol


chefj

 

when i first got a utec I did not get the molex whatever u call it. Jermain told me the black wire has to be grounded. So i ordered one from them. there customer support is good even though they wont update the damn thing.

Say with my 600cc injectors without any ems. The car would start but ran way too rich to drive. I ended up fuel fauling all my plugs they were soaked.

 

I wouldnt take the chance of running it as you could wash the cylinders down with to much fuel and possibly damage the rings or scuff up the cylinders.

 

I removed the UTEC today and the car started fine. No throttle body codes and no limp mode. I started it 4 times with no problems. I think I got a lemon UTEC. The map selector switch doesn't work either, it just cycles between maps 1,4,5, and 0. I thought it was just the remote selector, but even using the dial on the utec it only goes to those maps.

I'm gonna send it back to them today.

As far as running w/o the UTEC. It was idling between 12 and 13:1. As long as the range is in there it shouldn't cause any damage right?

 

well atleast u found the problem I would not try to drive it till u get the utec back,cause you will be way too rich.

 

i drove without my utec for over 300 miles with no problem on 600cc injectors. just easy on the tip in and its just fine.

 

Thanks for the info, I think I'm in the same boat as you. Do you know if they transfer your map or do you need to download it before you send it off then reupload it when you get it back?

 

Like I said before, it works fine without the wire grounded, and grounding it makes no difference in normal operation. The molex connector is part of an assesory package that allows hookup of a boost solenoid. The black wire only needs to be grounded if you're using one.

 

who told u that? obviously not the UTEC manual nor TurboXS

pin #1 (black wire) is a ground and pin #7 (red wire) is the solenoid control, negative ground as well. and there are a few threads where people didnt have the UTEC properly grounded and had all sorts of problems.

if it didnt need to be hooked up, I doubt TXS woulda put it plainly on page 15 of the manual to ground the black wire.

there is no wire in the molex for the boost control solenoid. thats pin 2. any of the 'accessory package' you are referring to do not have any wires in that molex.

 

I'm not sure about the grounding wire, but I know that mine was grounded as shown in the manual with the black wire going to the bolt in the footwell. Even with it grounded properly, the problem was still there.

The kicker for me was that I didn't have to discuss it with turboxs at all. As soon as I told them I was getting throttle body codes he said "send it in". He said that they hadn't seen that in a while, but I'm not sure how long "a while" is.

DJ, I would send it in now. Mine worked for two weeks fine, then I got the code once, then a week later, then every day, then perpetual limp mode. I think grounding is a side issue, as mine was properly grounded. The turboxs said it was an internal problem with one of the jumpers.

 

You're right it does say that...however from my personal experience it makes no difference whether it's connected or not.

Further on page 60:

Pin 1 Ground
Pin 7 Spare solenoid 1

The output is "ground" which is obtained from pin 1. Theres no way it's going to run the high current of a solenoid through the ECU ground, and furthermore, and as measured with my multimeter, there is no physical connection between pin1 and ECU/digital ground which backs up my findings. Pin 1 ground (input) is used for pin 7 (output) only.

 

I guess it was the Utec